Rozy Eau de Parfum opens with Vero’s signature passionfruit, honey and a cool (and at first almost medicinal) geranium. It brings to mind a less abrasive, less citrus-heavy version of Onda EDP (which of course I adore). It’s hyper fresh, golden in colour, with a clean, green, Bulgarian rose heart.
There are hints of fruit, just a touch of red berries and a soft peach (which billowed on paper, yet is more much refined and suede-like on skin). It comes across up close as translucent, but has an enormous throw. I love how just like Onda EDP, Vero manages to create something almost excessively clean at times, yet not at all sterile or unhuman… there’s something extremely sexy about the fresh take on these ingredients – it’s like she’s thought of the term “fresh out of the shower” to include the naked body as well. Not that this is a fresh out the shower smell at all!! – don’t get me wrong… but the passionfruit up top that dominates with the flourescent layer of honey and rose is scrubbed up to the max – not predictable dank earth or pepper overload here, but then neither is it soapy or old-fashioned.
Rozy EDP is a clean take on a rose whilst avoiding all the imaginable cliches – and yet I’d say it is immediately the most accessible in the line. What Vero has done is create something that I’d almost consider her signature, as a fragrance… just like L’Air du Desert Marocain is to Tauer. It’s an introduction, and an immediate way to understand her work. It ticks all the “Vero” boxes, yet it’s not as challenging and as puzzling as some of her first creations. It’s surprising that Rozy didn’t come first… I could imagine Rozy being “the start”, and then Onda introduced a honey/vetiver overload, Rubj introduced white florals and spice, and Kiki introduced lavender and caramel (and let’s just say for now Mito is the beautiful odd ball)… the fact the rose is not a dominating note and more a “part” of Rozy, it seems to be a unifying fragrance in the collection…. for that reason alone, I think Rozy EDP is an extremely clever and well thought out release for the line… the fact it is a hugely joyful piece to wear is just a bonus!
And for a little more of the “technical/how does it smell bit”, Rozy EDP remains relatively linear, gaining a little powder atop a dry, woody structure of cedar and sandalwood. Elegant, yet youthful – the correct way to do a modern rose fragrance – lovely!
Rozy Voile d’Extrait has a breathtaking opening – a pinch of bay leaf?, nutmeg (which at times gives off a clove-y, carnation warmth), what to me smells like cardamom, and a tart blackcurrant. It’s a slightly sour, slightly sweet spice basket of a fragrance… the peach still seems to be there, only more leathery… the fruit and spice accord smells slightly “turned”, a little rotten and damp, but lacking the indole to push it into an uncomfortable territory – Rozy Voile is definitely not challenging or difficult, but it is complicated and multi-faceted…
I admit only one fragrance is brought to mind when wearing Rozy Voile… Blask by Humiecki & Graef – a favourite of mine… it combines dark, smoky woods with red fruits, spice and florals (oh and mushrooms, chestnuts and buckets of other stuff)… but the association can only be found in the first few seconds – both are complicated and have a similar olfactory colour and texture (a dark burgundy/purple). The rose (and at times what smells like a pinch of saffron) is what spins Rozy in an alternative direction, lacking the sweetness (and hyper synthetic nature) of Blask due to the almost bitter blackcurrant and a balsamic base. The rose is a little darker here in the Voile d’Extrait (but still not dominating), partnered with a listed tuberose, which to my nose adds a density and a softer texture rather than anything traditionally “white floral”.
The spices settle quickly on the skin, but remain “humid”, and for that reason Rozy Voile comes across to me as a “jungle rose” – despite a lack of greenery… I suppose it’s hard to describe without smelling it… But the cleverly chosen ingredients in the “spice basket” opening take Rozy Voile away from being anything remotely “middle eastern”… or let’s just say “over done”. The blackcurrant/rose combination smells nothing like Keiko Mecheri’s Damascena, or Diptyque’s L’Ombre dans L’Eau… no, Rozy’s complicated little structure is a modern oriental that doesn’t fit into any other boxes, and all the better for it.
The base is soft, vanillic and resinous… labdanum, sandalwood, vanilla, just a smidge of powder, a touch of smoke… it’s a big ole’ oriental thing that at the very end, references the classic vanilla base of Shalimar and the like. I also find an animalic warmth to it and a little dry earth (castoreum?), and there’s a strong impression on vetiver thrown off my skin. The base is as full of life as the opening. Again, Rozy Voile is accessible, and yet totally unique – these two releases are clever, well thought out, and gorgeous additions to the Vero Profumo line, and perfumery in general.