Classic Patchouli opens with as expected, a huge blast of warm, earthy patchouli – completely headshop and stuffy (but I love that) – but a beautiful patchouli it is. There’s no sourness, the edges aren’t overly smoothed out so it still has a good rough, dark side, the scent of earth comes only from the complicated note itself instead of any added green notes. It has a bitter, herbal kick to it that reminds me of chinese medicine shops – but yet again, it seems nothing’s added – just a perfect patchouli soliflore opening.
As time goes on, Classic Patchouli gets sweeter, with a vanilla/benzoin combination coming in – now, the vanilla isn’t the kind I like – it starts to turn breathy and a bit clammy on my skin, but for some reason, it never creeps over the edge of being uncomfortable and I kind of perversely like it! I describe it as “eggy” vanilla :’) after sniffing Mona Di Orio’s Vanille which was a train wreck on my skin – but I couldn’t quite call it that here. Instead it gives Classic Patchouli a bizarre lactonic effect as though it has a “warm milk accord” sitting underneath the patchouli – it’s an unusual combination when I really think about it, and it reminds me of the contrast between vanilla and vetiver in Fat Electritian that juts about works… it’s the same kind of thing here.
So, this sweet milky patchouli gets lighter as the drydown begins, reminding me almost of patchouli scented whipped cream if you can picture that – but still with that herbal, earthy edge that just curdles it and makes it a little uncomfortable (totally my thing). A soft sandalwood (maybe some cedar too) sits in the base and I’m guessing a touch of amber (which begins to give Classic Patchouli a hint of powder), but the patchouli is undoubtably the lead.
There’s little more than can be said about such a direct, patchouli fragrance – but this is a really really good one. In the same vein as Borneo 1834 – I find this really comfortable and easy to wear, mainly just because I love patchouli. The execution of Classic Patchouli is beautifully done, the ingredients smell fantastic, and I love the subtle contrast in textures – one of the best patchouli soliflores I’ve smelt :)
Classic Patchouli 100ml EDP Von Eusersdorff – 115 Euros http://www.voneusersdorff.com