Holy smokes! Literally. Fumidus opens with a loud bang of deep, dank, earthy vetiver and bonfire smoke. A sharp black fog of birch tar in the style of Patchouli 24, but completely de-sweetened and de-powdered (compared to the vanilla of the Le Labo) by the bone dry earthiness of vetiver root. The vetiver is like that I love in Turtle Vetiver Front, but without that smooth coconut lactone to tame it’s edges. A booziness in the opening adds a sharp, alcoholic edge, almost giving me the pounding headache that the smell of actual whisky gives me anyway.
As it begins to settle, the smoke begins to retreat but always stays in focus, the vetiver smelling burnt and dry – the scent of cracked earth and dead grass as it so often reminds me off when used like this. The vetiver is potent, not at all “fresh”, but undoubtably masculine and powerful, it’s a brave note when used in such concentration – and the smoke simply amplifies its rough edges even more than necessary. It’s great!
Now, Fumidus I admit – pounds on my poor old head a bit, more so than my nose – and whilst I love the concept of it and enjoy sniffing it, it’s hard going. Unlike Turtle Vetiver Front (which is the closest thing I can compare it too), as I said, there’s nothing to round it out – there’s nothing altering the texture in a more acceptable way, and there’s nothing underneath to give it lift and light – it’s a dense almost rotted earth on the skin.
But it seems that it is this presentation of vetiver that I most get along with, after all I thought for ages that I didn’t like vetiver at all – but that was due to its pairings with citrus and marine notes, given a fresh texture that simply put it across to me as a mere partner to calone. Vetiver is a fabulous note when it’s boundaries are pushed and it is given pure lead – a brash, masculine scent that smells almost human. I really like the linear Fumidus – but will stick with my Turtle Vetiver for now… the price is scarier than the opening.
Fumidus 100ml EDP Profumum – $240 Luckyscent