Category Archives: A Lab On Fire

Video: SMELLYTHOUGHTS’ Fragrance Starting Lineup 2013

A new video here!
Please excuse the unflattering stalling towards the end of the video :) x

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Sweet Dreams 2003 – A Lab On Fire

Sweet Dreams 2003 opens extremely restrained with a stand alone bergamot note, over an almost invisible base of what feel like aquatics.

Now, I put lots of this on the back of my hand, and whether I’m anosmic to every note, Sweet Dreams 2003 is practically invisible.
Once this bergamot disappears, the faintest whiff of jasmine (which is so undetectable I had to look it up) peaks up, covering an ugly concoction of what smells like some transparent chemicals.

The fragrance is completely lifeless, dull, and no I’m not trying this on a bad day – I have tried Sweet Dreams 2003 3 or 4 times only to remain desperate to wash off it’s poor, flat attempt. It has a similar feel to Bergamote by The Different Company, but even quieter, like the stain of Bergamote after hours and hours of wear.

This is a fragrance created by Thierry Wasser (the nose of Guerlain) and the story surrounding Sweet Dreams 2003 is a typically romantic tale of secret formulas and long-lost memories and the like. They say this fragrance’s formula was jotted down by Thierry Wasser before he moved to Paris, and was his “prized creation”. To me, it smells like he jotted down the first few notes for the top of a fragrance and someone has mistook it for a complete creation. I can’t even begin to describe what a useless and unnecessary release this was for a relatively new niche house – I can’t see a bright future for them.

Sweet Dreams EDP 60ml A Lab On Fire – $110 Luckyscent

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What We Do In Paris Is Secret – A Lab On Fire

What We Do In Paris Is Secret or “Paris” as I will call it from now on, is in one word: Yummy! Now, whether that is a good or a bad thing is pretty much up to you. Not everyone likes this almost edible/ slightly immature style of fragrance. But before I get into this, let me tell you how it smells…

Paris opens with a powder puff of almonds, delicately fragrant heliotrope, with a subtle, almost aquatic fruit note that turns out is lychee :) So yes, lychee is the fruit note, so don’t hold onto the word “aquatic” and let your heart sink, I don’t mean it in any way cologne-y/transparent/ocean ozonic blah blah, it is instead a delicate watery fruit (which disappears after a few minutes), over a rich full powder of almond nuttiness.

The fragrance soon settles securely into a linear type structure, of creamy vanilla and benzoin, the slightest hint of creamy woods and up top a powdery, honeyed almond. Following along the line of Rahat Loukhoum, Louve, Luctor et Emergo and even Amour by Kenzo, Paris has a literal Play-Doh feel: dense, with the same heliotrope delicate sweetness with the tiniest hint of salt.

So, I described earlier how Paris is slightly immature, maybe that’s a little unfair. The thing is, it’s almost like a cheap thrill. It’s every lovely, cuddly ingredient wacked into one niche concoction. The Play-Doh note has been done before over and over, and yes, fair-do’s that this may be one of the much better examples, but piled on top of creamy vanilla, musk and delicate floral rose, this becomes an all round predictable fragrance. Whilst when I first sniffed this I thought “Yes, very nice” – that’s literally it, no surprises here, nothing slapping you sideways in the drydown, nothing leaping out and tearing at your nostrils with a joyous shock – Paris is about as safe and predictable as a niche gourmand can get. It would be a perfect blind buy for someone who just likes to smell good but doesn’t care of what in particular.

All in all, a pleasant, “hard not to enjoy”-Play-doh/almond fragrance, feminine and playful. A good example of something there is many of, and you don’t really need.

What We Do In Paris Is Secret 60ml EDP A Lab On Fire – £110 Luckyscent

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