Vintage Diorissimo – Christian Dior

I picked this up very cheaply at a Vintage Fair here in Birmingham, quickly sniffing out the bottle to check it still smelt good… it certainly does!

Vintage Diorissimo

Diorissimo opens with a clear, clean and green lily of the valley with a powdery lilac (and a very light citrus). It almost has a slightly “peachy” feel to it in the opening, an not-quite-ripe green peach and maybe even apple? The fruit accord isn’t dominant however, slightly alcoholic even (maybe the top has been tainted a bit… my bottle unfortunately leaks a touch after all…). The lily of the valley isn’t the powerful waxy and slightly spicy beast of the gorgeous Carillon Pour Un Ange, but more delicate, feminine and a touch “soapy”.

There’s a dewy scent of fresh greenery and a little heady jasmine, reminding me of the honeyed jasmine of First by Van Cleef & Arpels (without the aldehydes). There’s a light spice of lily – but all in all, the lily of the valley and lilac dominate… giving off an almost “laundry-clean” vibe, but all round more perfume-y. Whilst the lotv is pretty realistic, the rest of the composition smells undeniable-y dated, although too classical to smell old-fashioned… if there is such a thing. It’s quaint, very pretty, very delicate on my skin but with a spring-like throw (that somehow conjures up green melon? – although it’s not aquatic).

Underneath Diorissimo has the slightest civet rich musk, but it’s cleaner to my nose than many seem to get… all on top of the most subtle transparent woods and green. To me, Diorissimo remains relatively linear, gradually fading away in time not too dissimilar to how it started – fresh from top bottom, seamless, green and floral. Of course it’s not at all a challenging wear, but very, very pretty <3

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19 thoughts on “Vintage Diorissimo – Christian Dior

  1. Erica says:

    Uh oh, is this the gateway drug leading down the rabbit hole of vintage?

  2. Dearest Mr Thoughts (I feel now that you’re a vintage collector and all a new more formal title is required)
    That hint of First is very true, for muguet is (a) conjured with aldehydes, there’s no natural way of extracting the scent, and I have a feeling they form part of the family in JCE’s masterpiece for VC&A.
    Did rather like your vid of your recent haul.
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    • Haha honoured thank you Dandy :’) yep finally get sucked up into it.
      I find First unwearable, but it’s nice enough… this again, isn’t something I wear regularly, but I think I’ll love it more in spring.
      Thanks for watching the vids too Dandy :) xx

      • Dearest Mr Thoughts
        First “unwearable”?
        Interesting, but why?
        Yours ever
        The Perfumed Dandy

      • Yeh I had a bottle given to me but just couldn’t wear it – I’m very picky with jasmine soliflores (I say that but today wore Tawaf by La via del profumo…)… I guess the jasmine/aldehyde/honey/civet combo goes a bit soiled on me, on paper it sounds like something I should love, but on my skin – well, it was just bucket loads of helional (typical JCE amplifying a single molecule or something to give a fragrance unecessary translucency and minimalism) and a “nappy” smell. It was the kind of typical old-fashion dated fragrance that I hate to smell on people… I didn’t like it on paper either… whilst I can appreciate it, it’s not for me, I feel really uncomfortable in it. The jasmine also had a metallic edge I hated :(

  3. SallyM says:

    Ha! Come and sit here on the Vintage Couch of Doom where I’ve been lounging for several decades ;-) It’s a wonderful but increasingly expensive place to be, the latter made more so by IFRA and cronies as vintage lovers rally to buy up everything that’s still out there. Diorissimo is an excellent place to start, especially with springtime (ever hopeful!) just around the corner. I get what you mean about dated but not old fashioned – to me it conjurs up the word “nostalgia.”

    • Hi Sally thanks so much for reading! I know right hahaha, to be honest, i’ve been put off because as you said – increasingly expensive, and at the time I was always worried about the risk of spoilt juice or whatnot… right now, I just want to sniff it all! I’ve had samples sitting around for ages of things like vintage Femme, L’Air du Temps… all that kind of stuff. I guess my taste has developed drastically since starting the blog where at once I would crave the ridiculously avant garde and abstract, now, whilst I still love that (to a degree only when it’s wearable), I’m more into just big grand fragrances, and anything that references the classics melts me! So I figured… shit I need some classics :’) I have to vintage Balenciaga’s on the way… and I have a feeling this is only the beginning >:D If you could give me any heads up on things I must try then please let me know :D I’m trying to avoid the whole Chanel/Guerlain thing for now, I’m sure there’s other great less hyped stuff out there :D

      • SallyM says:

        What???!!! I’m hyperventilating here at the thought of not being able to include Guerlain in any suggestions, seeing as I’m such a G ho’. I must admit I’m not much of a Chanel fan although do appreciate Bois de Isles, Cuir de Russie and NO 19.

        Right then – heads up on vintage you say. How much space have I got? ;-) As my collection is inching its way up to 400 (In my defense, I *am* vintage myself and this madness started eons ago) I’m in a panic at knowing where to start. I tried to pick a sort of Top 10 as I was going to sleep last night and it literally kept me awake for hours. My long suffering hubby of nearly 30 years kept getting jolted out of slumber by various explosions of “OMG! How could I forget about X!!” or groans of “I just cant do it!”

        But I’m British damnit and I will prevail. I’m just going to type a list of whatever comes into my head and stop – well – when I stop.
        Bal A Versailles, L’Origan, Magie Noire, Quelque Fleurs, L’Air du Temps, Chypre (Coty), Narcisse Noire, Nuit de Noel, Joy, 1000, Femme (Rochas), Vent Vert, Youth Dew, Opium, Rive Gauche, Cabochard, Bandit, White Linen, Tabu, Crepe de Chine, Le Dix, L’Interdit, Tabac Blond, Evening in Paris, Miss Dior, Habanita, My Sin, Je Reviens, Shocking.

        There – that should get you through the weekend …

        Oh and if I can help with any samples, just let me know – I’ll be happy to see what I can do.

      • That’s amazing thank you so much for taking the time to do that. There’s a few here I’ve been searching for already – bidding time! :D
        I’ve got my eye on a couple of those mentioned on eBay – I already have a vintage Bandit which I love (not the parfum though unfortunately).
        This was extremely helpful <3

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