Fille En Aiguilles – Serge Lutens

Fille En Aiguilles

Fille En Aiguilles starts with a big, dried fruit and spice basket atop pine. It’s jammy, dense, all-out “forest-floor”-like, with an Aziyade-style Dr.Pepper combination of apricots, dates, cumin… all that gorgeous stuff. The pine is not at all reminiscent of floor-cleaner… well, here in the UK Pinesol isn’t sold, I don’t think, so we generally don’t have that association. Still, it’s richly spiced, and reminds me more so of Chypre Rouge than Arabie with its green floral spice. I get a hint of jasmine that runs throughout (reminding me a touch of Fig by Aftelier), but it’s all pine, fir, fruit and spice dominating.

Underneath, there’s a hint of bitter resins, a little amber, and a growing incense. The incense isn’t quite churchy, but it does develop into that kind of incense in the late drydown. The transition from warm pine and spice, to cool incense is pretty beautiful. Still, this isn’t really my kind of fragrance, and whilst wearing it, I feel as though I’m reviewing it as a piece of work, rather than a perfume I’d enjoy wearing. I can totally see its appeal, but for me, it almost smells a little simplistic once the top wears off, and I’m tired of all these pine, forest floor things out these days. Sure this isn’t exactly a new fragrance, but sampling it now, I feel no need to wear it. Chypre Rouge does a similar thing with much more interest and complexity and that is the Lutens’ forest floor, fruit & spice for me.

Fille en Aiguilles from here on is pretty linear, a pine/incense, sweetened with dried fruits, cumin, pepper and bay leaf… a typical Lutenesque composition that is undoubtedly a popular fragrance in the lineup, but nothing compared to some of the hugely original standouts beside it.

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4 thoughts on “Fille En Aiguilles – Serge Lutens

  1. Hi there – good review even though I quite like this one – haven’t bought it yet though. What in your opinion is the best pine fragrance by the way? And what do you consider are Serge’s best? I know you like Chypre Rouge – and I gave this a go last time I was in Paris but it didn’t last that long on me. It was really different though and packed a punch so it’s on my make believe list but wish the bell jars weren’t quite as pricey.

  2. poodle says:

    I love this but I can see how it might be too tame for you. I find it a very peaceful scent. I agree that it is somewhat linear but the incense makes me happy. I wanted to smell more of this line at Sniffa but the bottles were displayed in a way that made me afraid to touch them. They are so easy to tip over and they were like dominoes on the fragrance counter just waiting for some clumsy person like me to try and move one without hitting any of the others.

  3. jtd says:

    I love a good cold perfume and Fille qualifies. Cold pine snap, cold incense ash. frozen resin. Mmmmmm.

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