Vero Profumo – Les Voile D’Extrait – Rubj, Onda, Kiki & Mito

So Vero Kern released her Voile D’Extrait concentration of her four fragrances. These compositions are identical to her extrait/parfum’s, only here they are diluted to spray lavishly. They are described generally as lighter, with more room for each note to be experienced… maybe easier to wear for some?
I have used many of my extrait samples so I can’t compare I’m afraid, so i’ll be writing these reviews for what they are, with any comparisons I can remember off the top of my head :)

Rubj Voile D'Extrait

Rubj Voile D’Extrait opens as beautifully as ever – each time I smell any variation, I can’t help but fall madly back in love with it again. It is an astonishing floral. Sweet, indolic jasmine, orange blossom with a bite, warm cumin spice and a sweet, raspberry-like tartness. There’s just a subtle hint of soap here that I don’t remember from the extrait (neroli?) – it’s floral, and weirdly mouthwatering.
Up close, there seems to be hints of almond-y heliotrope and a herbal accord that seems new… mint? It’s like a candied spearmint that is an extraordinary inclusion… well, a new dimension we’ll say! Whether this mint illusion is a narcotic floral accent, I have no idea… but it smells like mint.

The florals so spaced out seem cooler, slightly mentholated, with a candle wax texture (and scent to an extent). There’s less sweetness, only the merest backdrop of hard-boiled candy. A musk laden base with a pinch of rich civet wraps up the Rubj Voile D’Extrait into a whole new beauty of a fragrance. Otherworldly.

Onda Voile D’Extrait
opens as the smokebomb I expected. However, the birch and bonfire is lifted slightly, allowing the more translucent honey underneath to shine. From afar, the honey is the lead, throwing off the skin in a burnt night. Hints of earthy salt from the vetiver is spiked with sharp spice, nutmeg, pepper, ginger – and a little astringent lemon, hitting the back of the throat like medicine. The smoked citrus and spice have the feel of a gentleman’s cologne, only muddled with honey and leather. This version of Onda seems to (in time), totally wipe out the heaviness of the original, leaving a softly sweet, smoky fragrance that is still as challenging as ever, but undoubtedly “airier” and just as wonderful for it. The muted texture leaves a stern, touch leather on the skin, with a bitter cardboard-like scent, the spice just tickling up top, the vetiver surrounding the whole thing almost invisibly. I’ve always been a mad fan of the EDP more so than the extrait, but this is such an animal of a fragrance, it’s impossible to ignore and not hugely admire.

Kiki Voile D’Extrait throws it’s caramel off my skin quicker than I’ve smelt it in any concentration before. The lavender of course dominates, but the sweetness is highlighted – it’s golden and almost tooth-achingly sharp for a few seconds – beautiful! The astringent lavender, all herbaceous and literally squeaking-clean, is a huge juxtaposition to the translucent caramel – something I’ve read many times but never picked up in Kiki. It seems to battle a bit more in this dilution, throwing around on the skin in a bizarrely sharp composition of sweet, soapy, herbal and cool. It does sort itself out though, a now subtly caramelized lavender, a little burnt up top – with the fizziness of an aldehydic-like white musk bubbling off the skin in a sudsy layer… it literally reminds me of bath bubbles <3
It’s a shapeshifter that’s for sure, and for me, an easier way to appreciate Kiki which has always been the fragrance I’ve toyed with loving and dismissing. This simply reinforces what a creative composition it is, and a lavender unlike any other. Hugely wearable and subtly spectacular once you “get” it.

Mito Voile D’Extrait opens green! Initially a bitter, vegetal blast, transforming into its signature lemongrass. The florals erupting quickly, the no-holds-barred green tuberose – narcotics galore, the most exceptional magnolia/champaca combo, cypress, galbanum, all the glory of the extrait that again, seems brighter, and a little sharper. I say sharper, I guess what I mean is the more vegetal/acrid aspects of the green accords are let loose here… Mito has never been sharp – in fact the opposite. And unlike the extrait, it takes just a touch longer before the plush base of oakmoss, resins and civet show up. In the extrait, this chypre drydown is one of the most incredible things in perfumery I’ve experienced, and whilst I prefer the weight of it in the extrait, the lactonics of the florals here are highlighted, and last that touch longer. All lemon-y, floral cream, wax, bitter greens and moss. Just as wonderful.

OK I’m a fan boy :$

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15 thoughts on “Vero Profumo – Les Voile D’Extrait – Rubj, Onda, Kiki & Mito

  1. Dearest Freddie
    Onda always was the one for me, and on the basis of these expertly detailed reviews that would seem still to be the case in new concentrations.
    ‘Honest, descriptive’ too true.
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

  2. poodle says:

    These sound wonderful Freddie. I really need to try Mito one of these days.

  3. laniersmith says:

    after reading your wonderful and very evocative review…. I am a fan boy too! Have to look see where I can find them out here on the Pacific Rim.

  4. Teri says:

    There goes my Christmas budget. I am so weak willed when it comes to Vero. Interested to know how the cumin note went in Rubj? I want to love it but can’t get past raunchy testicular funk!

    • Erm, I really don’t get any “testicular funk” from cumin ;) haha. I don’t get sweat or anything :/ So Rubj, Kingdom, I just get a big warmth from them – it smells clean to me. But it’s definitely less heavy than in the extrait, be sure to try it!

      • Teri says:

        I tried it this weekend – its beautiful on skin, as you say just spice warmth and none of the funkiness. Very happy with it!

  5. Sara says:

    Hi Freddie, absolutely loving the blog :) Can I ask where you got your Voile D’Extrait samples? I’m trying to find a reasonably priced place to sample them and thus compare to the EDPs – Onda EDP melts my brain (this is a good thing) and Rubj EDP makes me teary – I love it when a perfume goes beyond smelling good to create that depth of reaction. But Bloom has them for a bonkers £40 for 4 teeny samples! I want to put that kind of cash towards a bottle!
    Am I alone in thinking Testicular Funk sounds like a band from the 70s? :)

    • I got them direct from Vero, Sara.
      Thanks for the compliments! Glad you’re enjoying browsing through it :D
      Some of the extrait formulations are drastically different, IE Onda… the others are more like slight alterations (but the originals). Definitely worth trying though if you’re fans of the EDPs.

    • Teri says:

      Hello there Sara – I picked them up in person from Bloom this weekend and they were £2 each, maybe it costs more online?

      • Sara says:

        Hi Teri, thanks for that info. I rang them up about it and they said they have put the price so much higher online to put people off buying samples – they have limited stock. They advised me to pop in – but I’m across the country in Bath. Sigh.

  6. Natalie says:

    “More room to experience each note” actually sounds like exactly what I might need to truly fall in love with these fragrances. I like the way most of them smell, but there is so much to take in that it is a bit overwhelming at times. Brilliant insight of Vero to realize this possibility and tackle it in this particular manner. I don’t think every perfumer would think along those lines.

    • It is a really unusual route to take, but it does work well. I was a bit worried that three variations of the fragrances would be a bit overwhelming, especially to new comers of the line. But each has their advantages, so no complaints from me :D

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