Datura Noir – Serge Lutens

Hey guys! Had a very busy last couple of weeks so sorry for the lack of posting – I’ll be back up to speed soon.

Datura Noir

Datura Noir opens with a coconut/almond/tuberose combo – lactonic, spiked with bright orange and a hint of lemon… it’s heavily tropical floral vibe undoubtedly gives off a suntan lotion vibe to me – but I love that. The tuberose dominates, paired with a little jasmine, a jammy, apricot-like osmanthus (that thankfully works much better here than in the horrific Nuit De Cellophane), with a heavy vanilla/benzoin/tonka bean underneath.

Datura Noir’s opening is pretty much my ideal tropical floral – it’s so gorgeous, summery, warm and a little obnoxious… and it’s not that I don’t like the drydown, but I have my beef with it. Datura Noir gets a little bitter, a slightly resinous base underneath paired with a de-sweetened almond curdles just a touch with the now-slightly-screechy coconut… it gets a bit abrasive on the skin, but only when you dig your nose in to sniff it – the throw is lovely start to finish.

As it settles more, the tuberose is joined by a very powdery heliotrope – which along with the vanilla, amps up the sweet side to Datura Noir, also making it smell cleaner and cleaner as it goes on – it’s not a dirty tuberose that’s for sure. Underneath the tropics, this powder and white musk gives off a “laundry powder” vibe – not something I hate or love, but it’s there. It turns the fragrance a little stale, lacking the lustre of the opening lets say. The coconut/powder/almond/vanilla (with the tuberose quietening, and sweetening into a very “mainstream” smelling tuberose), smells a little limp and far too “pristine”. Now, it’s not that this drydown is too dissimilar from the opening, I had just hoped for an interesting direction.

Still, Datura Noir is a good tropical floral, not a great one. For something with a similar feel, Manoumalia by Les Nez is the way to go. For a tuberose with a similar feel, Mahora by Guerlain has a far greater vanilla finish.

Datura Noir 50ml EDP Serge Lutens – 82 Euros sergelutens.com

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14 thoughts on “Datura Noir – Serge Lutens

  1. laniersmith says:

    Oh that Mahora sounds better! Sorry not to be around as of late. But busy with….! Now I am back.

  2. Vanessa says:

    Great review, as ever! I was accidentally given a blotter with this sprayed on by an SA in Paris, who said it was the new Fille de Berlin. I said something like: ‘Oh, it’s not as spicy or rosy as I was expecting – I rather like it in fact’. So thanks to that happy accident – once the mistake was cleared up – I discovered a tropical floral I had once sampled years ago, but promptly forgotten about. I’d gladly wear this if I had a sample. Mahora I found super sweet and dense – could that be right?? It was thick in the way Parfums de Nicolai’s Sacrebleu is thick. Almost foggily so.

    • Haha! And what did you actually think of Fille de Berlin?
      Erm, it’s sweeter and denser for sure – but it’s got a more naturally floral sweet vibe, Datura Noir is all coconut synthetic sweet IMO. That’s how I like a tropical floral though :P
      Thanks for stopping by Vanessa

      • Vanessa says:

        I didn’t like the opening of Fille de Berlin – mega hellish blast of spice – but the drydown on the little slinky cloth the SA finally sprayed it on was rather soft and pretty, rosier and sweeter than I expected in fact.

      • Ahhh! I actually gave it a pretty thumbs down review – however, I think it just doesn’t work so well on my skin – I gave my sample to my mum and it smells amazinnggggg on her :D I’m envious.

  3. Victoria says:

    When I first tried Datura Noir, I was like “where’s the datura? where’s the noir?” – All I got was powdery almond heliotrope. I tested it in winter.
    I revisited it in warmer weather and got more of the tuberose and tropical florals but it still dried down to a almond heliotrope.
    Honestly, I’ve never sample a fragrance before that varied so much from season to season. I mean, I have to respect it for that alone.

    • I’ve heard a lot of people say it’s a big shape shifter on them. For some reason the heliotrope doesn’t work too well for me in here, and I generally love heliotrope. It’s definitely not noir, but when I first tried Datura Noir, I got a bizarre bitter vegetal scent in the heart that I haven’t got since :/ weird!

  4. I ran across a sample in my untested sample bag. I don’t know why I haven’t taken it out before…maybe because of the scary tuberose. But that fact that this has a tropical vibe, I may have to check it out one of these hot August nights. Great review my friend!

  5. […] OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DATURA NOIR:  Smellythoughts, Kafkaesque, My Perfume […]

  6. Ines says:

    Datura Noir actually has a place of its own among my tuberoses, although I don’t really consider it a true tuberose for all the other notes you mentioned. It has a more of a woody-sweet feel to it than a real tuberose so I like wearing it now when the days slowly turn into autumn.

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