Hey guys! Had a very busy last couple of weeks so sorry for the lack of posting – I’ll be back up to speed soon.
Datura Noir opens with a coconut/almond/tuberose combo – lactonic, spiked with bright orange and a hint of lemon… it’s heavily tropical floral vibe undoubtedly gives off a suntan lotion vibe to me – but I love that. The tuberose dominates, paired with a little jasmine, a jammy, apricot-like osmanthus (that thankfully works much better here than in the horrific Nuit De Cellophane), with a heavy vanilla/benzoin/tonka bean underneath.
Datura Noir’s opening is pretty much my ideal tropical floral – it’s so gorgeous, summery, warm and a little obnoxious… and it’s not that I don’t like the drydown, but I have my beef with it. Datura Noir gets a little bitter, a slightly resinous base underneath paired with a de-sweetened almond curdles just a touch with the now-slightly-screechy coconut… it gets a bit abrasive on the skin, but only when you dig your nose in to sniff it – the throw is lovely start to finish.
As it settles more, the tuberose is joined by a very powdery heliotrope – which along with the vanilla, amps up the sweet side to Datura Noir, also making it smell cleaner and cleaner as it goes on – it’s not a dirty tuberose that’s for sure. Underneath the tropics, this powder and white musk gives off a “laundry powder” vibe – not something I hate or love, but it’s there. It turns the fragrance a little stale, lacking the lustre of the opening lets say. The coconut/powder/almond/vanilla (with the tuberose quietening, and sweetening into a very “mainstream” smelling tuberose), smells a little limp and far too “pristine”. Now, it’s not that this drydown is too dissimilar from the opening, I had just hoped for an interesting direction.
Still, Datura Noir is a good tropical floral, not a great one. For something with a similar feel, Manoumalia by Les Nez is the way to go. For a tuberose with a similar feel, Mahora by Guerlain has a far greater vanilla finish.
Datura Noir 50ml EDP Serge Lutens – 82 Euros sergelutens.com