Perfume Pharmer: Primordial Scents 2012 – Fire Perfumes

Back to tackling this fantastic, gigantic project! Continuing with the Fire sample set:
Yet again, can find hardly any note pyramids of these ones so hopefully I’ll get this as spot on as I can!

Primordial Scents Fire

Incendere by Mermade Magikal Arts
A bone dry cinnamon atop dried woods and incense

Incendere opens with a nose-singeing cinnamon and high-pitched lemon. The lemon gets quickly overtaken by the spice, that immediately brings to mind the small, bright-red fireball hard candies I used to have when I was a kid! It’s a sweet cinnamon for sure, but extremely potent – tainted with what seems like cumin and some other culinary things! The cinnamon sticks around for a good while – very slowly transcending into an incense.

The incense is bone dry, de-sweetened, and paired with a similarly dry/charred sandalwood. Mmm! Well, I say mmm because it’s very good at what it’s doing. For me it’s not quite to my taste, mainly I guess because I’m not a huge fan of cinnamon straight-up, and I’m also a little tired of incense/sandalwood drydowns (especially when there are so many fantastic ones already out there!). Having said that, I know there’s a lot of you out there that can’t get enough of them so – I’ll continue from “Mmm!”…

The culinary spice stays strong – sizzling on the skin with a high pitch – and the very natural smelling wood/incense finishes Incendere – bitter and slightly medicinal. As I said, it’s not at all something I would wear, but for any cinnamon lovers, and for sandalwood fans – it’s fantastic!

Kiss Of Agnayi by Maria Mcelroy/ Alexis Karl of Cherry Bomb Killer Perfumes
A short lived but fun medicinal, woody, bubblegum thing

Oooh now this is something yummy and unexpected. Up top I get a blast of synthetic, sweet oud (black agar?) atop an almost bubblegum-like vanilla. It smells immediately like a slightly quieter version of something in the Montale line up. All out sweet glue-y oud (everyone says band-aid, I think it’s more like glue). There is a fruitiness to it too that reminds me of – cherry I guess? The oud isn’t at all challenging – instead it gives Kiss Of Agnayi a kind of cosmetic-like scent, making it smell like an obscure lip balm or something :’)

It smells a little honeyed, sweet top to bottom but not high-pitched or cloying. It dries down to something that gets a little less interesting as the oud-y vibe vanishes and a musky/woody thing pushes Kiss Of Agnayi into a territory that would make a good mainstream, feminine designer release. The sweet candy smell of the opening (ethyl maltol?) stays through to the end along with a mysterious touch of heated spice. Not for me, but fun while it lasts.

Caliente by Jane Cate of A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes
A pollen-heavy honeysuckle/jasmine/ylang, a lovely summer floral.

Gorgeous! A strong, pollen-heavy opening, laden with natural honey reminds me of a much more enjoyable opening/version of Hedonist by Viktoria Minya. It’s freshened with a touch of citrus up top, and smells like digging your nose deep into a bush of honeysuckle.

Immediately underneath is a warm, thoroughly enjoyable vanilla – sweet, creamy, adding a lactonic-ish edge to the florals on top. There’s no cinnamon, or any real heat – just warm flowers. An ever-so-slightly indolic jasmine comes in, the honey still sweetening Caliente, the accord smelling much more modern than say, the jasmine/honey of Van Cleef & Arpels First.

Infact, even the drydown begins to smell like Hedonist – but again, without piercing metallic notes that I didn’t get on with in that. The florals stay full and fresh – the jasmine/honeysuckle giving off a slight ylang-ylang vibe (bringing to mind Haute Claire by Aftelier only a little less green and raw). The drydown is warm, floral, sweet and honeyed – with an ambery/vanilla/tonka and a touch of powder – surprisingly soft and really nice to wear! A bit too similar to Haute Claire for me to need it, but a very, very nice summer floral.

Flor Azteca by Juan Perez of The Ezotic Island Perfumer

Arhghghg I love this already! Heavy tuberose, heavy methyl benzoate (strong, medicinal feijoa-like aroma – natural quality of the tuberose a la Tubereuse Criminelle… but stronger!) – a bucket load of creamy white floral petals a top a hair-colourant-like astringency: almost nose burning! Holy shit am I getting chocolate now?! Oh sweet Jesus kill me now – you are fucking delicious.

Ok, calm down… Chocolate white florals! ARGHGHGHGHG. This is amaze-balls no joke. Ok, calm down. So… Tuberose – all out tuberose. But there’s more florals under there, and spice! But not chilli thank God – it smells warm, like a nutmeg, or a ginger – it reminds me of the mace of Vero Profumo’s Onda. The hair-dye smell begins to disappear and the lactonic vibe of the florals and cocoa comes out more so – narcotic, fleshy – absolutely perfect.

Underneath is more creamy goodness, vanilla, benzoin, tonka – everything vanilla, but there are woods and earth and a salty, vetiver-like smell. There’s a fungal quality to it like mushroom – but it smells more floral, like the decayed indolic side to the tuberose – or an absolutely spot-on gardenia accord. It’s absolutely dizzying and without a doubt the best… I think I was about to type “The Best White Floral I’ve ever smelt”… I may have to leave it in quotations as a thought… make of it what you will – I don’t want to get ahead of myself here…

Anything challenging and high-pitched (the raw tuberose, similar to Bolt Of Lightning by Jar, in the opening) vanishes as it begins to settle – the gourmand notes rounding out the tuberose into something so awesome I’m pretty lost for words on what to write any more. Cannot tell you how much I need this in my life.

Afternoon Slant by Dabney Rose of Dabney Rose
A minimal and slightly mysterious, warm rose/jasmine floral.

A lovely and very unusual stewed-rose-tea-like opening and a touch of candied lemon starts Afternoon Slant. The tea-like quality reminds me of champaca, and the rose quickly dries out into a slight potpourri-kind of smell. A hint of dried fruits that smells a touch boozy brings to mind plums and raisins atop dried woods – a Lutens-esque creation.

There seems to be a hint of indolic jasmine and something a touch resinous underneath – it’s totally bitter/sweet and very mysterious on my skin – I can’t tell what to make of it. What it is, is a dried-out, sun-bathed floral, a top a resinous/woody accord and just a hint of berry sweetness. It’s hard to pin down – smelling slightly minimal, quiet and almost meditative. It almost feels like I’m doing something wrong by trying to pick it apart! It’s a little honeyed, a touch warm and ambery – with a subtle gourmand accord of almost buttery white jasmine? Not sure where that came from. It’s not for me, and just a touch too quiet for my taste – but very pretty in its subtlty and the warm/human smell it gives my skin as it dries down… interesting.

Chang Chang by Shelley Waddington of EnVoyage Perfumes
An extremely creative fragrance that breaks any expectations you have of “fruity-floral”.

Oh man I love this too. This opening is absolutely beautiful. A blinding intensity of I Have No Idea, atop an abstract, bitter citrus accord, on top of a mystery white floral bouquet – all out-blinded by this herbal, ozonic, marine, soiled smell. It reminds me a touch of M/Mink by Byredo, with a similar lemon-y marine, almost avant-garde opening. The soiled smell throws off from afar and isn’t present at all up-close, the first thing that sprung to mind was an old shoe… Yehhhh.

Underneath are these florals which are so difficult to pull apart. I think I get magnolia, rose, tuberose, a touch of jasmine – a fresh greenery and the smell of hot skin underneath a cool, marine-like dressing. It’s very bizarre – but gradually gets sweeter as a vanilla shows up from underneath, along with some holographic fruit notes that have literally no density to them at all. Composition wise, it smells like something that Humiecki & Graef would come up with – and infact I get a similar fruity-vibe as in Multiple Rouge (with that wet-dog accord). As the aldehydic-thing dies down, this alien fruitiness becomes more apparant, the florals retreating slightly behind the fruit-salad.

A muskiness that smells like potent ambergris keeps throwing this off the skin and yep, I absolutely love it. The complicated and impeccably blended drydown shows hints of berries, vanilla cream, white florals, marine-notes, sappy greenery, salted musk, beeswax, and far too much other stuff to name – all I can say is, it is an exceptionally creative piece of work. Absolutely brilliant <3

Primordial Scents 2012 Fire Sample Set –

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24 thoughts on “Perfume Pharmer: Primordial Scents 2012 – Fire Perfumes

  1. Loved your reviews!!!!

  2. Funny you should describe Incendere as a bone dry cinnamon. I’d just watched this a couple of days back, and evidently cinnamon has extremely drying properties!

    Enjoy! :)

    • Yeh the cinnamon challenge has led to so many other gross ridiculous “challenges” that scatter across my Facebook page :’) Thankfully this smells a little sweeter and easier to digest than I’m sure that tastes!

      • The sample set looks fab by the way, and your reviews don’t help my wallet either :D Looks like I’ve got to get one too!

      • The whole project is incredible. The Earth set was equally as mind-blowing. Looking forward to working my way through the Water and Air – hope there’s more loves along the way :P Not good on my wallet either! My list is getting longer of full bottles I HAVE to have. Seriously though, the talent scattered amongst the Primordial Scents project is overwhelming.

      • Indeed! That said I think you’ve got way more restraint than I do. I was just going through some of your archives and read about how you left London empty-handed despite visiting so many perfume places! I can barely make it out of one boutique empty-handed, much less a whole London journey!

      • Haha! Shit I forgot I wrote all that stuff, I need to track it down and put it in a category up top. Yeh that was a very disappointing London trip! The next time was more successful leaving with Lonestar Memories and Musc Maori :P
        I do have restraint just becuase I’m on such a tight budget! My rent costs a fortune so I’m very particular with what I buy. My collection is relatively small also (around 40 bottles) – I pick and keep only things I thoroughly love wearing, if I just “like it” – it normally gets sold or passed on quickly. Thanks for reading through my work though Vagabond I appreciate that :D <3

  3. Haha yes, I think it came up when I was searching for London perfume shopping or something along those lines. I love living vicariously through people; it makes me happy when others buy new perfumes, for some strange reason! And yes, rent in UK is horrible. I’m from London; I should know!

  4. poodle says:

    I love when you really love a perfume you’re reviewing. Your Flor Azteca review is fabulous. It’s great when a perfume gets you so excited you can barely get the words out. Such a rare moment.

    • Haha! I know well it’s not quite the same to give it time and lots of wears until the initial excitement wears off to write about it. It blows me away and I’m saving hard, really really need a bottle of this – it’s perfect.
      Thanks for reading poodle appreciated as always x

  5. Wow THANK YOU Freddie for loaning your nose and words to Primordial Scents FIRE perfumes! Your honesty is really meaningful. Glad you love Flor Azteca IMO it BEATS DOWN BOTH Tuberose Criminal AND Carnal Flower in sheer power!!!

    • Thank you as always Monica! I went straight to Etsy to get me a bottle of Flor Azteca but apparantely no postage to the UK :( I might just have to ask sweetly for an exception!
      It’s undoubtably better than both – more similar to JAR’s Bolt of Lightning but with much greater complexity and interest. The best tuberose I’ve smelt – so so happy to have found it.

  6. dabney says:

    Thank you so much for the review Freddie :) I think you pegged me fairly honestly…quiet & elusive is where i come from and where i wanted to go!

    • Aw I’m glad you thought so Dabney – it’s definitely an elusive fragrance. Subtly complicated but perfectly rounded and “complete” – the most mysterious of the bunch :P

  7. Jane Cate says:

    Thank you Freddie for your review of Caliente Perfume. The project was a labor of love. Thank you also to Monica for keeping the spirit of the PPPerfumes going.

    • Thanks for reading Jane! Loved Caliente – it’s a perfect summer floral. Again, couldn’t find the notes anywhere so it was all a bit of guesswork – but yep – totally to my taste! <3 A reference, and one of the best honey/floral fragrances without a doubt.

  8. Shelley says:

    Freddie, I treasure your insightful review of Chang Chang. I am so grateful to you for understanding it and for loving it!

    • Thanks for reading Shelley! Consider me a massive fan of your work. It’s like you pull at accords and ideas of so many obscure fragrances that I really love and turn them into something completely new and original. Chang Chang is a piece of work I’ll be raving about.

  9. Dear Mr Thoughts
    Your Flor Azteca review is hillarious, insane and utterly wonderful in equal measure.
    It is enough alone to make me want to hunt this one down.
    The Dandy is a late comer to the cafe tuberose, but now he has come to his senses he pretty much has a table permanently reserved.
    It’s the refrigerated mushroom note that I particularly adore, one that not everyone seems to pick up.
    Strange thins noses.
    Thank you as always your enthusiasm is infectious and I can only hope your knowledge is catching too.
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    • Dandy if you love tuberose this thing is the best I’ve smelt, really I love love love it. I get the mushroom in gardenia accords much more, but that manages to spring up in this beauty too. Providing you like chocolate, this thing is a pretty much dream fragrance for you too :P
      Thanks for reading as always Dandy, much appreciated :) x

      • There’s the rub though Mr Thoughts.. The Dandy’s not a great one for chocolate.
        But here the combination seems so intriguing that it must be worth a go. After all what are one’s prejudices and preconceptions for if not for shattering.
        Yours ever
        The Perfumed Dandy

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