First things first: apologies for slacking with updates on the blog, and kudos to all the other bloggers out there who are keeping their readers interested throughout the Christmas/New Year holidays – it’s hugely impressive and has kept me busy reading! :D
As for me, I’ve had tons going on, and the sheer amount of samples I have yet to write about has left me overwhelmed to a point where I have gone blank and not been writing, so – my regular posts will slowly come back, bare with me! :)
I first tried Sarrasins in the Palais Royal on my holidays last year, and a kind BN’er sent me a little sample of it to live with so I could write about it back home. I have worn it on and off for the last few days now so here’s my take on this niche classic.
Sarrasins starts with a subtle medicinal aroma that brings to mind Tubereuse Criminelle, only much more subdued, overlaid with a bucket of fruit – I get a strong honeyed pear (phenyl ethyl acetate?) and a sweet berry smell, maybe raspberry? Which quickly becomes undercut and overwhelmed by a heavily indolic jasmine.
I have to admit, the indole scared me the first few times I tried this. It was too fecal, too soiled, too dense and unappetizing – and you all know I’m one for challenging fragrances. I like indole too – I love the curdled bubblegum floral of Charogne, the intense (but incredible) Sepia, and the yet to be reviewed beauty that is Une Fleur De Cassie – but here, in Sarrasins, it was all a little too blunt. But now, after exploring the top notes a little further, I find they balance out the indole perfectly, and no longer do I get overwhelmed by the fecal floral.
The jasmine is much less intense than I anticipated, in fact, it’s quite translucent and light on the skin – but intense in its indolic concentration. Sarrasins however isn’t quite a soliflore – I get a little clovey hit of carnation, the jammy apricot floral of osmanthus (thankfully much nicer than the catastrophe of Nuit De Cellophane), and also a little bit of cream-cheese gardenia (very similar to it’s use in the new Une Voix Noire).
Unfortunately this floral bouquet grinds on me a little bit after a while, and its linear nature – along with that persistent scent of “decay” spreading underneath – makes me tired of having it on my skin within an hour or two. The drydown turns a little leathery and musky, bordering on dirty/clean yet again. If I cling onto the carnation/gardenia below the jasmine, I enjoy it a little more – but it’s too much hard work.
Now, I’m making it sound like Sarrasins is really difficult. It’s not. I have much more challenging stuff in my full bottle collection that I love to wear; Sarrasins to me is neither particularly challenging or particularly easy to wear, and for that reason, I don’t get as much enjoyment as I’d hope out of it. It is however a standout jasmine (which is, along with osmanthus and carnation, my least favourite floral – it’s amazing I like this at all isn’t it!), and I definitely recommend it. Personally it’s a little too straightforward for me, which sounds silly considering how much I love Tawaf (another straight forward jasmine), but there we go :)
Let me know what you guys think of Sarrasins, and what is your favourite jasmine soliflore?
Sarrasins 75ml Bell Jar Serge Lutens – 130 Euros sergelutens.com