Ubar – Amouage

opens with a tenacious floral blast – a sweet/sour civet cut underneath straight away makes the huge florals fly off the skin in a powerful musk cloud. A sweet aldehydic orange turns into an almost bitter grapefruit, loud and mouth-watering but far too “perfumey” to be considered a “fresh citrus opening”.

As the tart citrus evapourates, the florals bombard the heart but with a little more clarity so they can be understood a little better: a bright rose, clean and fruity with a gorgeous jam like quality, a spicy lily with a clove-y impact, a gigantic jasmine grandiflorum with power like I have never smelt.

The civet underneath is prominent throughout, more musky than animalic – and a big dusting of powder scatteres over Ubar. As it begins to settle, the sandalwood comes in along with a delicate trail of incense. The spicy florals keep the bouquet piquant and interesting, and the lily of the valley becomes more prominent as the overwhelming opening subsides. Ubar never loses it’s power however, remaining just as loud and enveloping as it is in the start.

Ubar is without a doubt, slightly dated smelling – but not in an old-fashioned unwearable way. It smells timeless, but unfortunately I read one association online which I now can’t get out of my head… Lou Lou by Cacharel. Ubar is very similar, and I know Lou Lou extremely well. Ubar is more refined, modern, and citrus heavy in comparison though – it’s ingredients presented with far more clarity and the powder handled with a much lighter hand. Ubar is far superior to Lou Lou with a greater development which eventual results in a breakaway of the association, but they without a doubt have their similarities.

Anyway. The drydown brings a prominent patchouli and a more subdued vanilla. The rose for me is the lead, pushing the jasmine to the side just a little bit, morphing Ubar’s drydown into a lovely rose/patchouli. It is not as straightforward as it sounds though, the musk, powder and jasmine still pushing heavy to the side whilst a rich orange blossom hides in the background trying not to be noticed. There’s a mere hint of ylang ylang that rises up after about an hour, and maybe even a little bit of violet? It all remains completely harmonious though, start to finish. I can comfortably wear Ubar, but it doesn’t suit me, and for that reason I don’t think I’ll ever end up with a bottle – it is however a beautiful perfume and the first Amouage I have explored in-depth. A very nice start.

Amouage 50ml EDP Ubar – £135 Les Senteurs

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15 thoughts on “Ubar – Amouage

  1. Undina says:

    I love LOVE Ubar, it’s one of those perfumes I don’t ever want to be without but I think that for me it smells completely different. Probably your sense of smell is more accute than mine. For me Ubar is so well blended that I can hardly distinct any specific note. But I enjoy the bouquet.

    I have a mini bottle of Lou Lou but I tried it only a couple of times so I cannot claim I know it. But from how I remember it I’d never be able to draw any parallels. Not in terms that one is superior/inferior to the other but in general: they smell for me really different. But now, of course, I’m curious to try Lou Lou again :)

    • There’s just a phase in Ubar after about 20/30 minutes where Lou Lou comes in, but with a greater clarity and far richer – Ubar is superior without a doubt. I used to own Loulou – I hated it, but wore it becuase it was so ridiculous :’)
      Ubar is a beautiful perfume. And you’re right, it’s blending is exceptional to a point where it is hard to distinguish at first, it took a few wearings before I could begin to understand the order of the bouquet – which I still don’t, I get glimpses of so many different things. Really lovely :)

  2. You have been a busy boy lately with all of your reviews. This sounds lovely, but I have yet to find an Amouage that doesn’t work. But I still haven’t found the one that I would purchase yet either.

    • That’s the same kind of thing with me – actually, Interlude Man didn’t work for me, but yes, even the nice ones – I just don’t wanna own them :/
      I have! I’m trying not to be a slacker and write more :’) Sorry if I’m hogging your reader feed.

  3. Another one I need to sniff out! Adding to the list along with all the Aftelier ones you recommended :-) My favorite Amouage is actually the Tribute Attar. Incense yumminess and ridiculously expensive!

    • The attar’s do sound wonderful, I haven’t tried a single one – but then again, I KNOW I would never buy one so there’s no point trying haha. No matter how good the juice it’s too expensive, I’d have a hard time cashing out on the Vero extraits and they are close to perfection for me. I prefer big spray bottles than little delicate things :)

      • baconbiscuit212 says:

        Oh, I know! I just kept passing these adorable, minuscule little 12ml bottles saying, “Don’t do it, don’t do it, don’t do it.”

        But I did. Now I’m coveting it!

  4. si says:

    Check out Dia man i love it!

  5. laniersmith says:

    Thanks for this great and in-depth exploration. Ubar sounds like I might like it…. you know me I like “timeless” fragrances.

    • Then be sure to try this AND Miriam by Tableau :D

      – OH and Secret Garden by Aftelier :) I’m loving this type of fragrance recently too!

      • laniersmith says:

        Yay more to add to my list…with these old school timeless glamour fragrances I am worried I may turn into Norma Desmond! “Max! Was that Paramount on the phone?”

  6. […] Freddie (Smellythoughts) reviews another big love of mine – Ubar by Amouage. I think I wouldn’t be able to recognize this perfume by this description but isn’t it great how differently we smell things? […] opens with a tenacious floral blast – a sweet/sour civet cut underneath straight away makes… […]

  7. Si says:

    I recently was at scentbar and smelled this on paper. it totally blew me away. I’m completely bananas for it. what a sexy perfume.

    • Lovely Si, make sure you try it on properly next time! It’s a powerhouse! I wouldn’t consider it sexy myself, it’s a bit dated, but it’s classical, grand, and smells like it’s from another era – a beauty.

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