Two more Tauer reviews here.
Now, there’s a similar note in both of these that I don’t actually enjoy… and I’ve only just felt like I can understand them enough to review them. So here it is, I’ll start with…
Eau D’Epices opens with a huge, complicated bag of spices, some citrus peel bursts out, cardamom pods – fresh and green, cloves, cinnamon; it is sweet and unedible-y delicious. It’s extremely exotic, dense, and true to description. Luckily, the spices are all carefully chosen, and none have that “tickle your throat” peppery note that many spice-laden fragrances contain.
After a couple of minutes, a very green herbacious note comes in. This note is more foody than earthy, but it isn’t quite so mouthwatering and makes the spice basket much more savoury. In the list of notes, is coriander: I actually thought it was bay leaf, but it is green, leafy, crinkly, and spicy. It creates a whole new texture and each spice seems to bounce off of this herb. The cardamom is also intense – it’s intense sweetness is counterbalanced by the raw greenery of the note, heavily perfumed and it creates a bizarre texture on the top of the fragrance. I struggle to get on with it, but it is utterly compelling.
The complexity during this opening to heart, is out of this world. It is extremely dense, and as I describe all Tauer’s: “full”. There is never anything missing in his compositions and you can tell he has worked painstakingly hard to get them absolutely perfect.
Sniffing Eau D’Epices too regularly as I am now is slightly headache inducing, it is so intense, and yes – spicy, that it is quite overwhelming. As for the development, Eau D’Epices remains relatively linear, whether it is my nose getting used to it or not, thankfully the green herb begins to mellow out a lot more and just support the spices as a slightly savoury base.
Some florals creep in that I believe is jasmine, and a faint whisp of incense in the traditional Tauer use.
The base remains slightly greener than his more famous compositions with the addition of vetiver, but it works with the spices and keeps them fresh.
All in all, a deep dense bundle of exotic spices – literally, a top some incense and earthy vetiver. I don’t think there is a more literal spice basket scent out there and the quality as always with Tauer is exceptional.
Unfortunately, it’s not really my type of scent, but I really am glad I’ve tried it and have my little sample for reference.
Une Rose Chypree is a fragrance I wanted to try to understand the “Chypre” category of fragrances more. It opens with a huge blast of wonderful tart Tauer citrus’ which instantly caves in to some nose tingling cinnamon, and bay leaf. Now, this savoury note of bay leaf, is something when I first smelt this, I had never came across before. It’s green, foody, almost curry like just due to my own associations. It was completely unexpected.
Wearing it right now for probably the 3rd or 4th time, I can enjoy this opening more, however, I really really didn’t enjoy the bay the first few times round. However, I find this instantly easier to wear than Eau D’Epices most likely due to the supporting notes.
Some stunning rose comes through that is of such great quality and so perfectly blended, that it took me 3 wearings to detect it! The bay I find probably the most overpowering note, but only because I’m paying so much attention to it. When I learnt to accept it, the rose came through, and it’s none of that soapy clean rose here, it’s in traditional Tauer style – it’s peppery, spicy and earthy, almost carnation like.
The bay note does mellow out as the rose becomes more prominent along with the bitter oakmoss and earthy patchouli. The patchouli is also only just detectable to me, and it’s not the typical hippie patchouli that I’m used to and love, it blends with all the other green notes to provide something almost creamy and earthy… can’t quite describe it.
There is a very resinous base (as to be expected with Tauer), but as this is in his “Homages” line, he diverts away from his usual ambergris, incense, tonka bean Tauerade, yet somehow makes it undeniably “his”.
For anyone who is a fan of Chypre fragrances, this is obviously a must try, from my small amount of exposure and exploration of them, I can recognise what a wonderful example and interpretation of it this is. As always, exceptional quality, totally unique and to top it off: a beautiful bottle!
Tauer – Une Rose Chypree 30ml EDP – EUR 97.90 RRP
Tauer – Eau D’Epices 50ml EDP – EUR 85.50 RRP both available from tauerperfumes.com