Tag Archives: vero profumo

Vero Profumo – Rozy EDP & Rozy Voile d’Extrait

Rozy Vero Profumo

Rozy Eau de Parfum opens with Vero’s signature passionfruit, honey and a cool (and at first almost medicinal) geranium. It brings to mind a less abrasive, less citrus-heavy version of Onda EDP (which of course I adore). It’s hyper fresh, golden in colour, with a clean, green, Bulgarian rose heart.

There are hints of fruit, just a touch of red berries and a soft peach (which billowed on paper, yet is more much refined and suede-like on skin). It comes across up close as translucent, but has an enormous throw. I love how just like Onda EDP, Vero manages to create something almost excessively clean at times, yet not at all sterile or unhuman… there’s something extremely sexy about the fresh take on these ingredients – it’s like she’s thought of the term “fresh out of the shower” to include the naked body as well. Not that this is a fresh out the shower smell at all!! – don’t get me wrong… but the passionfruit up top that dominates with the flourescent layer of honey and rose is scrubbed up to the max – not predictable dank earth or pepper overload here, but then neither is it soapy or old-fashioned.

Rozy EDP is a clean take on a rose whilst avoiding all the imaginable cliches – and yet I’d say it is immediately the most accessible in the line. What Vero has done is create something that I’d almost consider her signature, as a fragrance… just like L’Air du Desert Marocain is to Tauer. It’s an introduction, and an immediate way to understand her work. It ticks all the “Vero” boxes, yet it’s not as challenging and as puzzling as some of her first creations. It’s surprising that Rozy didn’t come first… I could imagine Rozy being “the start”, and then Onda introduced a honey/vetiver overload, Rubj introduced white florals and spice, and Kiki introduced lavender and caramel (and let’s just say for now Mito is the beautiful odd ball)… the fact the rose is not a dominating note and more a “part” of Rozy, it seems to be a unifying fragrance in the collection…. for that reason alone, I think Rozy EDP is an extremely clever and well thought out release for the line… the fact it is a hugely joyful piece to wear is just a bonus!

And for a little more of the “technical/how does it smell bit”, Rozy EDP remains relatively linear, gaining a little powder atop a dry, woody structure of cedar and sandalwood. Elegant, yet youthful – the correct way to do a modern rose fragrance – lovely!

Freddie Albrighton Vero Kern

Rozy Voile d’Extrait has a breathtaking opening – a pinch of bay leaf?, nutmeg (which at times gives off a clove-y, carnation warmth), what to me smells like cardamom, and a tart blackcurrant. It’s a slightly sour, slightly sweet spice basket of a fragrance… the peach still seems to be there, only more leathery… the fruit and spice accord smells slightly “turned”, a little rotten and damp, but lacking the indole to push it into an uncomfortable territory – Rozy Voile is definitely not challenging or difficult, but it is complicated and multi-faceted…

I admit only one fragrance is brought to mind when wearing Rozy Voile… Blask by Humiecki & Graef – a favourite of mine… it combines dark, smoky woods with red fruits, spice and florals (oh and mushrooms, chestnuts and buckets of other stuff)… but the association can only be found in the first few seconds – both are complicated and have a similar olfactory colour and texture (a dark burgundy/purple). The rose (and at times what smells like a pinch of saffron) is what spins Rozy in an alternative direction, lacking the sweetness (and hyper synthetic nature) of Blask due to the almost bitter blackcurrant and a balsamic base. The rose is a little darker here  in the Voile d’Extrait (but still not dominating), partnered with a listed tuberose, which to my nose adds a density and a softer texture rather than anything traditionally “white floral”.

The spices settle quickly on the skin, but remain “humid”, and for that reason Rozy Voile comes across to me as a “jungle rose” – despite a lack of greenery… I suppose it’s hard to describe without smelling it… But the cleverly chosen ingredients in the “spice basket” opening take Rozy Voile away from being anything remotely “middle eastern”… or let’s just say “over done”. The blackcurrant/rose combination smells nothing like Keiko Mecheri’s Damascena, or Diptyque’s L’Ombre dans L’Eau… no, Rozy’s complicated little structure is a modern oriental that doesn’t fit into any other boxes, and all the better for it.
The base is soft, vanillic and resinous… labdanum, sandalwood, vanilla, just a smidge of powder, a touch of smoke… it’s a big ole’ oriental thing that at the very end, references the classic vanilla base of Shalimar and the like. I also find an animalic warmth to it and a little dry earth (castoreum?), and there’s a strong impression on vetiver thrown off my skin. The base is as full of life as the opening. Again, Rozy Voile is accessible, and yet totally unique – these two releases are clever, well thought out, and gorgeous additions to the Vero Profumo line, and perfumery in general.

Rozy 50ml Voile d’Extrait Vero Profumo – £156 http://www.bloomperfume.co.uk
Rozy 50ml Eau de Parfum Vero Profumo – £138 http://www.bloomperfume.co.uk

Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , ,

SMELLYTHOUGHTS: Best Fragrances of 2013

SMELLYTHOUGHTS

2013 brought us Perfumistas some outstanding releases. I didn’t want to categorize any of these so I’m putting out this end of year post, as simply as possible: The Seven Best Releases of 2013…
A weird number, not particularly catchy, but these were the standouts. Of course, I haven’t tried everything that has been released, but I generally try what targets my taste. All these fragrances were released in 2013, and are not necessarily what I’ve worn the most for example, but if you wanted to some up the year in perfume, these would be the seven.
In no particular order… (Ok, maybe slightly in a particular order)…

Mito Extrait Vero

Mito Extrait de Parfum by Vero Profumo

So I cannot find a picture of the Extrait de Parfum bottle anywhere, so this Voile D’Extrait will have to suffice! Whilst the composition is the same in both bottles, the concentration of the parfum just wins me over with it’s dense, plush texture.
Vero Kern has created a perfume of immense beauty, and whilst it took me a while to fully “get” the Mito EDP which was released first, the Extrait simply blew me away.
It is a lush combination of bracing citrus accords and bitter greens, with a bunch of white florals laid over it. Lemongrass, cypress, galbanum all lead up top, giving in to a heart of magnolia, champaca and a bitter vegetal tuberose which ties the florals in to the bitter greenery both up top, and the mossy greenery in the base. There’s a hint of peach throughout, and a drop of civet in the base – a reinvented chypre that smells modern yet timeless, referencing great classics of the past with huge admiration. Green florals have been totally to my taste recently, and having tried so many, I can’t see anything surpassing this extraordinary fragrance.

Ingrid Tableau de Parfums

Ingrid by Tableau De Parfums

The final fragrance in the Tableau de Parfums trio was a truly gorgeous release. A frangipani oriental, using the leading floral as it’s never been smelt before… out of a tropical setting, and thrown into a spice basket of dried roses, cloves, cinnamon and woods. It’s an absolutely huge fragrance, overwhelming and extravagant… yet its final hours on the skin are languid and plush; it’s feminine without being sweet or candied. Ingrid is a bold, confident fragrance that is hugely original and truly one of a kind. A fantastic finale for the line by Tauer. His work for Tableau de Parfums has been his most mature and experimental yet.

Zelda

Zelda by Envoyage Perfumes

Zelda is just an all-round beautiful fragrance. It’s a unique, complicated magnolia oriental – in a similar vein as Ingrid without the hefty dose of cloves. It’s an old-school glamorous floral oriental, concentrating on the more creamy, waxy aspects of magnolia, partnered with subtle greens, hints of booze and old wood, rich in civet soaked woods and tobacco. Zelda is an extremely modern take on a classic structure and whilst complicated, it’s executed perfectly. Shelley Waddington is an extremely talented artisinal perfumer and Zelda is proof of this… it’s truly gorgeous.

Eva Kant O'Driu

Eva Kant by O’Driu

Perfumer Angelo Pregoni has done something with Eva Kant that I just can’t work out – he’s created an extremely beautiful, slightly aquatic floral that has a texture and translucency I didn’t think possible with such a high dose of natural materials. Eva Kant is a slightly spicy floral of rose and ylang, that starts extremely bitter and herbal, with lavender, grapefruit and rosemary. It’s bold, without being overly dramatic, with a fascinating combination of textures and contrasting notes. It’s a hugely intelligent piece of work from the O’Driu brand and undoubtedly his best work to date. Whilst I struggle to wrap my head around it at times, Eva Kant is something I absolutely adore to wear and have certainly never tried anything like it.

Cuir de Gardenia

Cuir de Gardenia – Aftelier Perfumes

Cuir de Gardenia filled a space in perfume land that was desperate to be filled… there has always been a gap for a good gardenia fragrance. I’d say this space has previously been occupied by Jardenia by JAR, and nothing else. Whilst Jardenia is still an extraordinary gardenia, it always felt more a brilliant accord than a fragrance to me. Whilst Cuir de Gardenia is simplistic, it’s a complete fragrance… with an outstanding gardenia accord. In the opening there’s subtle honeyed fruits, pear, a gorgeous gardenia – however devoid of the mushroom earthiness that dominated Jardenia, and jasmine. The jasmine is equally as dominant on my skin, and it leads into a smoky castoreum base that on me, goes through stages of smelling like leather, then smoky bacon. It’s a wonderful, comforting fragrance by the mother of natural perfumery Mandy Aftel – a perfumer who knows her ingredients inside-out. A clever piece of work, executed breathtakingly.

Bogue Profumo Cologne Reloaded

Cologne Reloaded by Bogue Profumo

Excuse the terrible photo, again, I couldn’t find one of the bottle so just took a quick snap of mine :)
Cologne Reloaded was composed almost entirely of vintage materials the perfumer apparently found, or was gifted by someone. The result is exactly as expected, an ancient smelling cologne. Of course citrus oils would have long since gone bad, so there are practically no citrus notes here. Instead, it’s a lavender smoke-bomb of a fragrance. Tons of birch tar, aromatic herbs, astringent, medicinal, bracing, very smoky… It’s one hell of a creation, that dries down to a rather dandified baby powder finale. Hard to wear, but every time I do I love it so much. A brave, and a very interesting release from a very new niche house – this perfumer Antonio Gardoni is one to keep an eye out for. His fragrance Eau D’E for Bogue is also really beautiful!

Santal Exotique

Santal Exotique by The Exotic Island Perfumer

This fragrance is an absolute must try for any sandalwood lovers, any lovers of spicy, Christmas-y gourmands… cinnamon, hot milk, cocoa, sandalwood galore, wood galore in general… It’s a mature gourmand, not at all foody, even more opulent than any of Serge Lutens’ sandalwood interpretations! This puts so many poor sandalwood attempts to shame… and in fact, Juan Perez’s whole line The Exotic Island Perfumer is outstanding. Santal Exotique I didn’t expect to love as much as I did, yet I find myself wearing it most evenings… absolutely comforting, beautifully balanced, totally wearable, and very alluring. A warm, spicy comfort and a reference sandalwood fragrance.

There you go guys! Hope you enjoyed my favourites of 2013… I cannot recommend you sampling these enough!!!!

Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Vero Profumo – Les Voile D’Extrait – Rubj, Onda, Kiki & Mito

So Vero Kern released her Voile D’Extrait concentration of her four fragrances. These compositions are identical to her extrait/parfum’s, only here they are diluted to spray lavishly. They are described generally as lighter, with more room for each note to be experienced… maybe easier to wear for some?
I have used many of my extrait samples so I can’t compare I’m afraid, so i’ll be writing these reviews for what they are, with any comparisons I can remember off the top of my head :)

Rubj Voile D'Extrait

Rubj Voile D’Extrait opens as beautifully as ever – each time I smell any variation, I can’t help but fall madly back in love with it again. It is an astonishing floral. Sweet, indolic jasmine, orange blossom with a bite, warm cumin spice and a sweet, raspberry-like tartness. There’s just a subtle hint of soap here that I don’t remember from the extrait (neroli?) – it’s floral, and weirdly mouthwatering.
Up close, there seems to be hints of almond-y heliotrope and a herbal accord that seems new… mint? It’s like a candied spearmint that is an extraordinary inclusion… well, a new dimension we’ll say! Whether this mint illusion is a narcotic floral accent, I have no idea… but it smells like mint.

The florals so spaced out seem cooler, slightly mentholated, with a candle wax texture (and scent to an extent). There’s less sweetness, only the merest backdrop of hard-boiled candy. A musk laden base with a pinch of rich civet wraps up the Rubj Voile D’Extrait into a whole new beauty of a fragrance. Otherworldly.


Onda Voile D’Extrait
opens as the smokebomb I expected. However, the birch and bonfire is lifted slightly, allowing the more translucent honey underneath to shine. From afar, the honey is the lead, throwing off the skin in a burnt night. Hints of earthy salt from the vetiver is spiked with sharp spice, nutmeg, pepper, ginger - and a little astringent lemon, hitting the back of the throat like medicine. The smoked citrus and spice have the feel of a gentleman’s cologne, only muddled with honey and leather. This version of Onda seems to (in time), totally wipe out the heaviness of the original, leaving a softly sweet, smoky fragrance that is still as challenging as ever, but undoubtedly “airier” and just as wonderful for it. The muted texture leaves a stern, touch leather on the skin, with a bitter cardboard-like scent, the spice just tickling up top, the vetiver surrounding the whole thing almost invisibly. I’ve always been a mad fan of the EDP more so than the extrait, but this is such an animal of a fragrance, it’s impossible to ignore and not hugely admire.

Kiki Voile D’Extrait throws it’s caramel off my skin quicker than I’ve smelt it in any concentration before. The lavender of course dominates, but the sweetness is highlighted – it’s golden and almost tooth-achingly sharp for a few seconds – beautiful! The astringent lavender, all herbaceous and literally squeaking-clean, is a huge juxtaposition to the translucent caramel – something I’ve read many times but never picked up in Kiki. It seems to battle a bit more in this dilution, throwing around on the skin in a bizarrely sharp composition of sweet, soapy, herbal and cool. It does sort itself out though, a now subtly caramelized lavender, a little burnt up top – with the fizziness of an aldehydic-like white musk bubbling off the skin in a sudsy layer… it literally reminds me of bath bubbles <3
It’s a shapeshifter that’s for sure, and for me, an easier way to appreciate Kiki which has always been the fragrance I’ve toyed with loving and dismissing. This simply reinforces what a creative composition it is, and a lavender unlike any other. Hugely wearable and subtly spectacular once you “get” it.

Mito Voile D’Extrait opens green! Initially a bitter, vegetal blast, transforming into its signature lemongrass. The florals erupting quickly, the no-holds-barred green tuberose - narcotics galore, the most exceptional magnolia/champaca combo, cypress, galbanum, all the glory of the extrait that again, seems brighter, and a little sharper. I say sharper, I guess what I mean is the more vegetal/acrid aspects of the green accords are let loose here… Mito has never been sharp – in fact the opposite. And unlike the extrait, it takes just a touch longer before the plush base of oakmoss, resins and civet show up. In the extrait, this chypre drydown is one of the most incredible things in perfumery I’ve experienced, and whilst I prefer the weight of it in the extrait, the lactonics of the florals here are highlighted, and last that touch longer. All lemon-y, floral cream, wax, bitter greens and moss. Just as wonderful.

OK I’m a fan boy :$

Tagged , , , , , , , , , , ,

Mito Extrait (Parfum) – Vero Profumo

Ok so if you remember from my posts last year here and here, I visited Vero Kern (and Tauer) in Zurich for my Birthday :) I got an early sneak peak of the Mito Parfum back then ;) and I waited until I got home to try it properly and gave it a month before I sent my thoughts/review off to Vero. I’ve tried not to revisit it in hope to publish my review with a new mindset and a greater maturity a year on, but re-reading it, and sniffing right now the remaining drops from my little vial, I couldn’t really have worded it better (ok maybe one or two little edits!). It is a tranquil beauty that I’m sure will swarm the perfume world with gleaming praise as everyone gets their nose on it. So… I can’t find a picture of the bottle anywhere, so I’ll just for now use Sofo Berdzenishvili beautiful illustrations for the Mito EDP :)

mitoextrait

Mito Extrait opens crisp and green – the lighter use of lemongrass allowing the more floral lemon notes of magnolia to push forward – as opposed to the more herbal opening of the Mito EDP. Herbal hints of lavender and basil seem to pop in and out of focus.  The heavy, medicinal, camphorous feijoa-like opening of tuberose absolute slowly erupts to the forefront, throwing off a soft but undoubtedly vegetal, herbal quality. It’s plush but not candied, refined but allowed to smell raw. The tuberose and magnolia duo are incredible, the lemongrass still holding a solid place in the composition to freshen the intensity of the tuberose (allowing it to never overwhelm the magnolia), whilst enhancing the natural aroma of the magnolia – it almost acts like the passionfruit that the perfumer uses in other compositions to provide unexpected lift to otherwise dense notes.

A bitter dose of galbanum (and cypress) cuts through the florals, adding a classic greenery whilst hinting at where Mito Extrait will end up in its drydown. The magnolia, as it softens, joins with a champaca – harmonious with the galbanum to create a bitter-tea like scent, overwhelming and dense, a shade far deeper than the magnolia and lemongrass that still manages to lead at the top of the fragrance. The deep green seems to mimic subtle spice of clove or carnation, a jam-like greenery of pine with a natural stickiness – it melts on the skin.
The tuberose pulls these two sides together (along with touches of hyacinth) as it possesses both the white-floral quality of the magnolia and the bitter greenery of the galbanum (the white/green balance that Mito is all about!). It is an absolutely perfect new inclusion for Mito, previously a jasmine in the EDP.

The subtle peach from the EDP is still present, with a softer texture and a greater density, acting as a fruity suede on the base of Mito Extrait. A subtle spice from the champaca or galbanum, as mentioned earlier, helps keep the florals alive with an almost ginger-like heat (a total contrast to the almost mint-like mist of dew sitting on the tuberose/magnolia combo). It makes Mito sparkle even late into the heart.
The furry warmth from the base gradually softens the fragrance and manages to get more and more delicious as it goes on. A touch of civet adds an almost ganache-like richness, the greenery pulled into the base as expected by a hint of patchouli and a dose of oakmoss. The peach hums along with the oakmoss in a vintage Mitsouko-like chypre harmony, modernized only just by a resinous accord that seems to sit in the base of Mito, a dark lacquer of labdanum sweetened by a rich vanilla. The base is damp, dewy and fresh, whilst smelling rich and aged, like a new growth of greenery atop something old. Its texture is unbelievably soft on the skin, yet it smells absolutely full of life from the top to the bottom – retaining the fresh, joyful citrus quality of both the herbs and the florals throughout, with a base so perfect, it almost leaves me lost for words.

An absolute joy to wear! I adore it <3

Tagged , , , , , , , ,

VIDEO: Favourite Jasmine Fragrances 2013

Enjoy the video, and as always, the stupidly unflattering screenshot it decides to use as a title frame – thanks YouTube! :) x

Tagged , , , , , , ,

Videos: Smellythoughts on Vero Profumo & Magnetic Scent Perfumes

Ok ok! So I said I wouldn’t post videos on here again. WELL, I’ve decided against it. I work hard on these videos, and I’ll post them because of that :D Ignore them if you’re not liking them. Amazingly, my channel is going very well on YouTube despite having only 10 videos so far, I’m getting a bit of support! And it’s a little more content on here…
Finally getting to grips with video making now, all audio, cut scenes and blah blah, is now perfect.
Anyway. Here are the last two:

Tagged , , , , ,

Video: SMELLYTHOUGHTS’ Best Fragrances of 2012

Pretty much the same as my Best of 2012 blog post but thought I’d post it here anyway :)
Oh and I forgot to mention M/Mink in the video :( Silly me!

x

Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

SMELLYTHOUGHTS Back Home… What Did I Get? + A Giveaway!

The REVEAL!
So after my two-week fragrant tour around Europe (which went swimmingly!) – I managed to pick up some goodies on the way (of course).
Here are my somewhat unusual choices if I do say so myself…

New Bottles

Bosque by Humiecki & Graef

I love Bosque. I always have. I got thinking about how people say it is the easiest to wear and the most “generic” of the H&G line – I completely disagree, but maybe that’s my mindset. I’ve planned this big friggin’ essay on Bosque that I’ve been working on and am looking forward to posting, it might be a bit ridiculous for most people to read but it’ll be there anyway :P
Bosque is a dried grassy/floral with really bizarre floral notes I might add… it dries down to this bizarrely salty/milky/spermy? accord undercut with vetiver, it’s extremely unusual, absolutely beautiful and I’m thrilled to finally have it.

M/Mink by Byredo

I had tried this one before but only on paper. I thought it was absolutely disgusting. However, as soon as it hit my skin in the store in Germany, I got this blast of animalic musk and an intensely synthetic aldehyde combo that still, turned my stomach a bit. But as it dried down and the bitter, set honey, dark incense and unsettling inky notes came in, I found it completely captivating. I’m not sure whether I’ll wear M/Mink much, but I knew it had to be in my collection – it fits an empty spot. It’s both intimate and completely soul-less – brilliant!

Miriam by Tableau de Parfums

Miriam is an incredible fragrance, a modern vintage classic that carries a true Andy Tauer signature. It’s such an emotional fragrance, beautiful, elegant and timeless – full of interesting twists and turns that take it in unexpected directions. It evokes such strong memories and emotions with me and is a real “homely” fragrance – it is pure bliss. I have written my big review on this so I don’t need to write much more, but I feel like I can sigh relief with a smile now I have it.

Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens

I knew I was going to get this one – it’s the most perfect iris (soliflore?) fragrance I’ve smelt. Full of carrots, powder, clove, earth and blahhhhhh it’s just great. A cold, calming, haunting perfume that has been on “the list” for far too long now. I needed it!

Rahat Loukhoum by Serge Lutens

Now here’s a weird one ey? Well… after my deep exploration of the exclusives line both outside of the Palais Royal and during my visit, I decided to pick up this one again for a quick sniff – having reviewed it many months ago after I had a slight obsession with it before smelling it. I loved it all over again – cherry, marzipan cakey goodness. But before, I was disappointed with the drydown – it lost the cherries, it lost the sweetness – it became a subtle skin scent that just hovered on my skin in a light, slightly powdered layer of vanilla, rose, musk and almond. The thing is, right now – this part appeals to me just as much. It is the ultimate comfort scent and I’d love to fall asleep to it. But also, It is the perfect fragrance to wear when you don’t know what to wear – something that will just within an hour or two melt into your skin in a delicate sweet layer that smells like a part of you – just a little more yummy. Thoughtless, elegant, edible? but necessary! I had to buy it. It alters my mind completely on first sniff – a complete joy.

Rubj by Vero Profumo

Rubj is one of the greatest florals created… in my opinion of course. As Judas as it is to say, I love the EDP more than the extrait… now, I adore the extrait, it’s beautiful – but the crisp green quality and the tart passionfruit in the EDP just tips the scale for me and could literally make me faint in adoration of this fragrance. An overwhelmingly gorgeous perfume that I almost feel is too good for me to wear, but when I wear it I feel incredible – and that’s what a real perfume should do! A necessity.

Leva by O’Driu

I have always wanted an O’Driu - but thought I didn’t like any of them enough to own – and the price is indeed terrifying. Leva always gets put down a bit in the lineup as being too sweet, too light, and too unlike the other O’Driu’s - I can’t disagree with that enough. Leva is a powerhouse on me, holding a typical O’Driu signature up top with THE MOST intense lemongrass and green olive combo which smells like a dense, pungent almost vinegar-laden oil on the skin. But the thing that captivates me the most is its perfect development (using only naturals I believe). The olives burn off after half an hour or so, the pungent lemongrass undercut by the greatest vanilla I have smelt. I struggle with vanilla so this is a big deal for me. Difficult to wear, but a real piece of art work.

Fracas by Robert Piguet

Ok I’m lying a bit here, this was a gift from the Robert Piguet house, but I came back to it from my holiday so I’m including it :P After all, it is a new bottle. I do love Fracas – a playful ditsy tuberose that I can splash on in abandon and roll around smelling of candies and cream – all buttered up in creamy white florals! Of course, there’s more to it than that, but I’ll be sure to write something a little more mature about it soon :)

So yes! There you have it. What do you guys think? Did I do good? :D

THE GIVEAWAY – NOW CLOSED!!!
(the real reason you’re reading this)

So one lucky reader can win a 1ml sample of each of my new goodies!
All you have to do is subscribe/follow (if you haven’t already!), let me know which one takes your fancy the most, AND – LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK OF THEM!!
I love feedback, negative and all, don’t be afraid to tell me you hate something that’s part of the fun :P But it sucks to send people stuff and never hear from them again – just saying ;)
I’ll announce the winner next Sunday: 23/12/2012 so make sure you come back and check because people keep forgetting to collect their goodies :(

Winner announced here!

Thanks for the support everyone

Freddie <3

Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Mito EDP – Vero Profumo

So I received a wonderful surprise package from the generous people at Campomarzio70.
Inside? A sample of the much-anticipated new 2012 release from Vero Profumo - Mito.

I probably should live with this for a while longer, but I just can’t wait, I have to write about it! :)


Fabulous illustration by Sofo Berdzenishvili!

Mito opens with a wonderful bitter greenery in the style of Papyrus De Ciane by Parfumerie Generale, only this is much more dispersed and wearable. Before you know it, the bitter reeds and galbanum tumble into an intense citrus accord that literally erupts out of nowhere.

The lemon is so intense it reminds me of some of the O’Driu herbal openings, only yet again – more wearable, and much more appetizing. It has the sharp yet syrupy intensity of a lemon sherbert candy and the delicious but unedible accord penetrates the opening of Mito for some time.
A sweetness underneath gives us a wink to the floral accord that is to come - the rugged greenery retreats into the background, adding a brilliant bitter edge that literally cuts through the flourescent citrus.

The great thing about the opening is that it is a full, glossy citrus with absolutely no aquatic notes in sight. Instead it is enriched with tart, syrupy goodness before a quick, sly flare of magnolia’s blossom before your nose. The magnolia accord is slick, and creeps in underneath the already present citrus, it’s presence only detectable from a fantastic “waxy” texture and the slightest smear of vanilla. The delicate vanilla was detectable from the start but I mistook it not for a hiding base note. The magnolias add a further density to the lemon drops, whose greenery verges on a true to life lemongrass.

The lemongrass/vanilla combo reminds me of Leva by O’Driu - only Leva’s intense green olive note and oily texture makes herself and Mito almost polar opposites. The vanillic accords in here which seem to come only from the white floral bouquet, are considerably less sweet and firm than the almost congealed drydown of Leva – whilst I love that vanilla, this is far more obedient but more fun to wear.

Anyway, I keep going on about this vanilla as though it’s a main player – it’s not. The citrus harmony mellows, with the slightly fruity, slightly creamy, slightly green mangolia’s blooming underneath – a green jasmine creeps in without notice as well, imparting a subtle but present richness to round out the tangy lemon sherberts. I at times feel like I can detect a slightly powdery orris root which I absolutely love, but it may be a combination of other things. There definitely is the occasional subdued waft of vegetal powder that creates a wonderful matted texture over the fragrance.

The slow drydown (which is so seamless from the heart that you don’t realise Mito is submerging to the green core), becomes smooth, rich with a creamy texture from the volumptuous florals and soft furry moss. The moss in the base I guess makes Mito a chypre, but not as overtly obvious as Rubj. Here the base is soft, furry, almost human in its natural fluffy texture. It isn’t as bitter and prominent as the green edge in Rubj - the green facets of citrus and the white florals help smooth out the earthy base and create an effortless blend from start to finish. Mito is delicate and sleek with no knots in its transition, the knots that make some of Vero’s older compositions sometimes challenging.

The unfortunate thing for me in Mito is the lack of passion fruit – the confronting Vero signature that creates a translucent attack across the outer edges of all the other Vero EDP’s, if it is in Mito - it is extremely subdued to a point where I can’t detect it. I would love to smell that terrifyingly unique signature splattered across the citrus florals of Mito, but unfortunately – I do miss it.

However, Mito is a wonderful citrus (coming from a non citrus-soliflore lover), with the white florals creating something that is a perfect summer release, and a completely new addition to her line up. Not as challenging and complicated as Onda and Rubj, but more a partner to Kiki in the easily loveable and wearable side of the Vero house – no less beautiful.
These are initial impressions so I’ll be sure to update on further wearings :)

Vero Profumo Mito 50ml EDP – Released September 2012!!

Image copyright of Diego Comi Ph. Artwork by  Sofo Berdzenishvili.

Tagged , , , , ,

Vero Profumo – Rubj EDP, Rubj Parfum

The final Vero fragrance reviews here. I have lived with them a little longer than those in my previous reviews, but still feel incomplete in my thorough understanding of them. So as always, here’s where I learn everything else…

Rubj EDP opens with a beautiful citrus with Vero’s creamy, passion fruit note instantly recognizable.
This quickly tumbles into an intense orange blossom aroma, with a bizarre anise providing a 10 second flicker. The openings to the Vero Profumo Eau De Parfum’s are so much to take in at once that my fingers can’t keep up with my writing.

So back to the opening whilst I remember… The citrus burst is both floral, and acidic. The creamy passion fruit signature (that has a urinal resemblance as mentioned in my other Vero reviews) ties Rubj together with both Onda and Kiki. The orange blossom merges with a full, voluptuous tuberose - rubbery and thoroughly narcotic. The florals are in balance with neither dominating, but both thrown out in full force. Bizarrely, the narcotic qualities of these florals paired with whatever else is going on in the base, give off an almost fruity-berry like aroma. This de-sweetened acidic fruit note ties Rubj to its name with a scarlet colour. The subtle yet unusual transformation reminds me of how the orange blossom in Parfumerie Generale’s Cuir Venenum turns into grape soda (only in a much more obvious manner).

Cutting under the white floral bouquet is a deep green oakmoss and a sharp wood (cedar I assume), that is almost as potent as the florals, making this an instantly recognizable chypre (something that I normally struggle detecting). The bitter greenery underneath is something that I’m not all that used to and am never sure whether I thoroughly enjoy it or not. Having said that, it is a wonderful change to my usual familiarity with tuberose in which it is always layered over something enhancing it’s thick, creaminess - coconut, musk, benzoin, sandalwood etc. Here the green chypre base of patchouli and oakmoss really balance out the sweetness and add an almost astringent quality to Rubj.

The passion fruit signature remains ever-present for a long time, imparting its familiar almost industrial aroma which seemed exaggerated in Onda. However, here, paired with the narcotic florals and bitter oakmoss greenery, everything seems to fall into a perfect harmony that feels both desperately modern, and so classical it becomes familiar. As a chypre, the base never fully tumbles into the depths of the greenery thanks to this neoteric passion fruit, verging on an almost overtly synthetic feel that keeps Rubj bright and electric – I have learnt to love this sharp and daring signature.

Rubj is clear and collected, defying expectations of accords and fragrant families with perfect execution.

Rubj Parfum (extrait) pushes forward with the narcotics even further with an immediate opening of hugely indolic jasmine. The magic mystery ingredient yet again produces a subtle berry aroma, and a tuberose I’m sure hides in the heart only much more restrained.

Here in the heart, the jasmine settles down and the orange blossom pushes forward until yet again, they are on par. Neither the jasmine or the rich orange blossom take the lead, but instead they become slightly sweeter than the EDP, yet more restrained without the uplift of the passion fruit (even though I still somehow get the feel of it).

A musk joins the rich florals and seems to provide this decadent, dirty and dusty angle. However, the scrubbed up florals and the signature Vero astringency, balance everything out into a composition that sways in and out of indolic, animalic excessiveness, and soapy, clean clarity. The result is something that becomes, thankfully, restrained and comfortable - more apparently as the heart fades into the drydown. A now streamlined fragrance settles - a green edge similar to that in the EDP is present here, along with the almost medicated berry accord still tying together the top notes with the base.

The jasmine and orange blossom tame greatly and the fragrance never falls to the darkness of say, the Onda extrait, but similarly has the greater depth and warmth. Whilst the Rubj Parfum isn’t my favourite of the trio, it is something that I feel is completely new to me, and thoroughly enjoyable for that. As with the other Vero extraits, this feels considerably more simplified than the EDP, but somehow so perfectly harmonized that it becomes just as complex. The notes work so well on their own in these extraits - allowing every aspect of them to shine and be enhanced by each other, that the complexity is something that comes only from smelling, and understanding them.

I have thoroughly enjoyed exploring the Vero Profumo fragrances and can’t wait to get my nose into the new release :D

Rubj Parfum Extrait 7.5ml Vero Profumo – $195 luckyscent.com
Rubj EDP 50ml Vero Profumo – $195 luckyscent.com

Tagged , , , , , ,
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 210 other followers