So Vero Kern released her Voile D’Extrait concentration of her four fragrances. These compositions are identical to her extrait/parfum’s, only here they are diluted to spray lavishly. They are described generally as lighter, with more room for each note to be experienced… maybe easier to wear for some?
I have used many of my extrait samples so I can’t compare I’m afraid, so i’ll be writing these reviews for what they are, with any comparisons I can remember off the top of my head :)
Rubj Voile D’Extrait opens as beautifully as ever – each time I smell any variation, I can’t help but fall madly back in love with it again. It is an astonishing floral. Sweet, indolic jasmine, orange blossom with a bite, warm cumin spice and a sweet, raspberry-like tartness. There’s just a subtle hint of soap here that I don’t remember from the extrait (neroli?) – it’s floral, and weirdly mouthwatering.
Up close, there seems to be hints of almond-y heliotrope and a herbal accord that seems new… mint? It’s like a candied spearmint that is an extraordinary inclusion… well, a new dimension we’ll say! Whether this mint illusion is a narcotic floral accent, I have no idea… but it smells like mint.
The florals so spaced out seem cooler, slightly mentholated, with a candle wax texture (and scent to an extent). There’s less sweetness, only the merest backdrop of hard-boiled candy. A musk laden base with a pinch of rich civet wraps up the Rubj Voile D’Extrait into a whole new beauty of a fragrance. Otherworldly.
Onda Voile D’Extrait opens as the smokebomb I expected. However, the birch and bonfire is lifted slightly, allowing the more translucent honey underneath to shine. From afar, the honey is the lead, throwing off the skin in a burnt night. Hints of earthy salt from the vetiver is spiked with sharp spice, nutmeg, pepper, ginger - and a little astringent lemon, hitting the back of the throat like medicine. The smoked citrus and spice have the feel of a gentleman’s cologne, only muddled with honey and leather. This version of Onda seems to (in time), totally wipe out the heaviness of the original, leaving a softly sweet, smoky fragrance that is still as challenging as ever, but undoubtedly “airier” and just as wonderful for it. The muted texture leaves a stern, touch leather on the skin, with a bitter cardboard-like scent, the spice just tickling up top, the vetiver surrounding the whole thing almost invisibly. I’ve always been a mad fan of the EDP more so than the extrait, but this is such an animal of a fragrance, it’s impossible to ignore and not hugely admire.
Kiki Voile D’Extrait throws it’s caramel off my skin quicker than I’ve smelt it in any concentration before. The lavender of course dominates, but the sweetness is highlighted – it’s golden and almost tooth-achingly sharp for a few seconds – beautiful! The astringent lavender, all herbaceous and literally squeaking-clean, is a huge juxtaposition to the translucent caramel – something I’ve read many times but never picked up in Kiki. It seems to battle a bit more in this dilution, throwing around on the skin in a bizarrely sharp composition of sweet, soapy, herbal and cool. It does sort itself out though, a now subtly caramelized lavender, a little burnt up top – with the fizziness of an aldehydic-like white musk bubbling off the skin in a sudsy layer… it literally reminds me of bath bubbles <3
It’s a shapeshifter that’s for sure, and for me, an easier way to appreciate Kiki which has always been the fragrance I’ve toyed with loving and dismissing. This simply reinforces what a creative composition it is, and a lavender unlike any other. Hugely wearable and subtly spectacular once you “get” it.
Mito Voile D’Extrait opens green! Initially a bitter, vegetal blast, transforming into its signature lemongrass. The florals erupting quickly, the no-holds-barred green tuberose - narcotics galore, the most exceptional magnolia/champaca combo, cypress, galbanum, all the glory of the extrait that again, seems brighter, and a little sharper. I say sharper, I guess what I mean is the more vegetal/acrid aspects of the green accords are let loose here… Mito has never been sharp – in fact the opposite. And unlike the extrait, it takes just a touch longer before the plush base of oakmoss, resins and civet show up. In the extrait, this chypre drydown is one of the most incredible things in perfumery I’ve experienced, and whilst I prefer the weight of it in the extrait, the lactonics of the florals here are highlighted, and last that touch longer. All lemon-y, floral cream, wax, bitter greens and moss. Just as wonderful.
OK I’m a fan boy :$