I’ve had these Jovoy samples for soooooooo longggggggg. The house is now being sold in the UK I believe and is getting a little more press.
I gave a quick sniff to all of these when I first got them, and put them aside in a dark corner. But here they are all back out again ready for some quick reviews so I can relax knowing they have been dealt with.
Ambre Premier opens initially, bizarrely “perfume-y”… yes yes, what a shit description – it was unexpected lets just say that. A bizarre sweet/sour/bitterness of chocolate, orange and patchouli muddle around each other for a while trying to get comfortable on the skin, as a sharper metallic note bites through the middle.
The amber has a “breathy” vanilla quality to it, which paired with the chocolate-patchouli/gourmand thing going on, and the very synthetic smelling orange – turns my stomach just a little.
There’s a little clean rose in the middle, a white musk, and a cloying vanilla – but the dominating accord is surprisingly a metallic meets gourmand patchouli… with a disjointed amber underneath. Drying down to a sweet, hideous white musk.
La Liturgie des Heures opens not too dissimilar to April Aromatics’ Calling All Angels, with its dry woods and incense, only this is a touch more peppery, and more “sticky”. Along with the overload of bitter resins and incense – bits of harsh greenery cut through it: pine and cypress mainly… a mix of sticky, sweet forest floor, and more herbal coniferous greens.
It pretty much stays this way throughout it’s life. It’s totally not my kind of perfume and not how I like to smell (also very bored of the overload of foresty/incense fragrances)… but still, this is a solid enough example for people who like that kind of thing Not bad!
L’Arbre de la Connaissance starts with a loud, fig overload. It’s tangy, almost sherbert-y, neither predictably lactonic, or green? Maybe a bit of both – it’s both sharp, sweet, fizzy and bright – I get touches of grapefruit and bitter lemon peel too.
The fig gives off hints of coconut, green sappy milk (suntan lotion and salty green) - and gradually gets greener as more herbaceous notes and camphor joins in.
It’s a little too much on my skin – but I’d definitely recommend it for someone after a loud, hyper-fresh fragrance. I surprisingly like it, despite it smelling mega-synthetic, it reminds me of a fig that Comme Des Garcons would come out with – even with a touch of high-pitched metallic oil thrown in for good measure! It dries down to a woody/patch, but stays true to the start for longer than expected.
L’Enfant Terrible opens near enough a straight rip-off of Parfum D’Empire’s Aziyade. I love Aziyade so I can’t help but quite like this too as much as I hate to admit it (ok read the name I want to love it!!!). It starts with fizzy spiced fruit, not too dissimilar to Dr.Pepper soda! Dates, cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon, a pinch of pimento berry, plum… all blended into this hot, fruit-pie-like scent.
There’s syrupy oranges, culinary herbal notes… ok it sounds ridiculously complicated but it’s totally not (if you’ve smelt things like Aziyade, Arabie etc. you’ll totally get this). The soda-vibe stays true for a while – the fruit settling a little bit as the heated spices dominate (this is where things get a little different), drying down to a dry cedar/sandalwood combo and musk. Nice enough, but it has been done, and better.
Private Label opens with a harsh, nail-varnish leather. A raw, earthy, smoky vetiver comes in quickly and together – the combination is pretty foul. It smells black and rubbery (yes, dildo was the first word that came into my head then too), with squeaky vinyl (stop!!!), and underneath, a resinous amber (lots of labdanum), a bit of incense and other bitter greens that just make it worse and worse.
Ok, so Private Label is not for me. It’s an upfront, foul-smelling masculine fragrance that smells simplistic yet sloppy, and on my skin at least – it has no personality whatsoever. It feels like I’m wearing a “first draft”. But anyway – it finishes how it starts but quieter, and thankfully becomes relatively translucent quickly into wear. Ew!
Psychedelique has a sharp, high-pitched citrus opening that within seconds falls into a patchouli soliflore. The patchouli is similar to the patchouli in the rest of the line’s base… quite a weird one. It’s not quite gourmand, a touch metallic, fresher than expected with an unusual green-quality – camphorous and a little “sweaty”.
It’s given a cooler, more herbal feel by a dose of geranium – but gradually is warmed by the stinky amber of Amber Premier When this comes in my heart sinks a touch because all hope is lost and I know I can no longer attempt to enjoy this hybrid patchouli. I’m not a big fan from the beginning, but it’s interesting. But as that breathy (sulphur-like), sticky vanilla/amber creeps its way into the mix, pushing the geranium out the way, it becomes thicker, sweeter and turns a little bit “off”. I’ll stick with Borneo 1834!
I hope this post was helpful as a brief summary… some interesting stuff, but don’t consider me a fan :’) there are better example of each perfume out there already.
All fragrances 100ml $180 Jovoy Paris – Luckyscent