1 opens with a translucent, tangy black currant, subtle rose and jasmine – just a pinch of powdery mimosa and a pale greenery. It’s blended to a point where not a single thing stands out, super smooth – light as a feather, with a kind of ozonic accord running through it that whilst doesn’t smell marine-like or aldehydic, surprisingly makes the opening of 1 smell desperately synthetic despite its infamous “quality”.
Magnolia seems to dominate after just a minute or two – not the heavy green, waxy magnolia of Mito, not the boozy, fleshy, glamorous magnolia of Zelda, but something almost a touch soapy/lactonic – and I can’t help but both like it (yes just like) and find it to be no greater than the smell of a decent quality hand cream.
Once the body cream image is in my head, it sticks. It smells chemical, floral, ozonic and lactonic… with a total lack of texture – it becomes almost mundane, despite the obvious hidden complexity. As a result, it almost feels like a wasted bunch of great ingredients (after just ten minutes) – the jasmine isn’t indolic of full – it’s not what I want jasmine to smell like. The magnolia has little personality and the tartness of blackcurrant is nowhere to be seen. Instead this slightly green, fruit-floral gets a little bitter as the salted, ozonic accord gets a little stronger and more irritating and the powder of the mimosa de-sweetens, and similarly to M, amber takes over all too quickly.
The amber underneath isn’t vanilla heavy, nor is it particularly resinous – it’s a little washed out, more of a colour than anything else. A white musk comes in – not a hint of animal, human, or sexual suggestion, no – it’s a “fuzz”. A fuzz of laundry, clean, sterile to give throw and little more. Gosh I sound so negative! I’m trying hard not to be At first I like it, then I think about it – and all “like” vanishes…
What’s left on my skin after just 20 minutes is what takes 1 throughout the rest of its life. It’s a relatively flat, slightly lactonic/ozonic floral hand cream fragrance that doesn’t even have the advantage of moisturizing my skin. A touch of rose and magnolia, the subtlest green imaginable and a neither here-nor-there musky amber (with a touch of castoreum)… Such a shame, such a headache-inducing shame.
1 17.5ml parfum extrait Puredistance - $198 Luckyscent