Tag Archives: andy tauer

SMELLYTHOUGHTS: Best Fragrances of 2013

SMELLYTHOUGHTS

2013 brought us Perfumistas some outstanding releases. I didn’t want to categorize any of these so I’m putting out this end of year post, as simply as possible: The Seven Best Releases of 2013…
A weird number, not particularly catchy, but these were the standouts. Of course, I haven’t tried everything that has been released, but I generally try what targets my taste. All these fragrances were released in 2013, and are not necessarily what I’ve worn the most for example, but if you wanted to some up the year in perfume, these would be the seven.
In no particular order… (Ok, maybe slightly in a particular order)…

Mito Extrait Vero

Mito Extrait de Parfum by Vero Profumo

So I cannot find a picture of the Extrait de Parfum bottle anywhere, so this Voile D’Extrait will have to suffice! Whilst the composition is the same in both bottles, the concentration of the parfum just wins me over with it’s dense, plush texture.
Vero Kern has created a perfume of immense beauty, and whilst it took me a while to fully “get” the Mito EDP which was released first, the Extrait simply blew me away.
It is a lush combination of bracing citrus accords and bitter greens, with a bunch of white florals laid over it. Lemongrass, cypress, galbanum all lead up top, giving in to a heart of magnolia, champaca and a bitter vegetal tuberose which ties the florals in to the bitter greenery both up top, and the mossy greenery in the base. There’s a hint of peach throughout, and a drop of civet in the base – a reinvented chypre that smells modern yet timeless, referencing great classics of the past with huge admiration. Green florals have been totally to my taste recently, and having tried so many, I can’t see anything surpassing this extraordinary fragrance.

Ingrid Tableau de Parfums

Ingrid by Tableau De Parfums

The final fragrance in the Tableau de Parfums trio was a truly gorgeous release. A frangipani oriental, using the leading floral as it’s never been smelt before… out of a tropical setting, and thrown into a spice basket of dried roses, cloves, cinnamon and woods. It’s an absolutely huge fragrance, overwhelming and extravagant… yet its final hours on the skin are languid and plush; it’s feminine without being sweet or candied. Ingrid is a bold, confident fragrance that is hugely original and truly one of a kind. A fantastic finale for the line by Tauer. His work for Tableau de Parfums has been his most mature and experimental yet.

Zelda

Zelda by Envoyage Perfumes

Zelda is just an all-round beautiful fragrance. It’s a unique, complicated magnolia oriental – in a similar vein as Ingrid without the hefty dose of cloves. It’s an old-school glamorous floral oriental, concentrating on the more creamy, waxy aspects of magnolia, partnered with subtle greens, hints of booze and old wood, rich in civet soaked woods and tobacco. Zelda is an extremely modern take on a classic structure and whilst complicated, it’s executed perfectly. Shelley Waddington is an extremely talented artisinal perfumer and Zelda is proof of this… it’s truly gorgeous.

Eva Kant O'Driu

Eva Kant by O’Driu

Perfumer Angelo Pregoni has done something with Eva Kant that I just can’t work out – he’s created an extremely beautiful, slightly aquatic floral that has a texture and translucency I didn’t think possible with such a high dose of natural materials. Eva Kant is a slightly spicy floral of rose and ylang, that starts extremely bitter and herbal, with lavender, grapefruit and rosemary. It’s bold, without being overly dramatic, with a fascinating combination of textures and contrasting notes. It’s a hugely intelligent piece of work from the O’Driu brand and undoubtedly his best work to date. Whilst I struggle to wrap my head around it at times, Eva Kant is something I absolutely adore to wear and have certainly never tried anything like it.

Cuir de Gardenia

Cuir de Gardenia – Aftelier Perfumes

Cuir de Gardenia filled a space in perfume land that was desperate to be filled… there has always been a gap for a good gardenia fragrance. I’d say this space has previously been occupied by Jardenia by JAR, and nothing else. Whilst Jardenia is still an extraordinary gardenia, it always felt more a brilliant accord than a fragrance to me. Whilst Cuir de Gardenia is simplistic, it’s a complete fragrance… with an outstanding gardenia accord. In the opening there’s subtle honeyed fruits, pear, a gorgeous gardenia – however devoid of the mushroom earthiness that dominated Jardenia, and jasmine. The jasmine is equally as dominant on my skin, and it leads into a smoky castoreum base that on me, goes through stages of smelling like leather, then smoky bacon. It’s a wonderful, comforting fragrance by the mother of natural perfumery Mandy Aftel – a perfumer who knows her ingredients inside-out. A clever piece of work, executed breathtakingly.

Bogue Profumo Cologne Reloaded

Cologne Reloaded by Bogue Profumo

Excuse the terrible photo, again, I couldn’t find one of the bottle so just took a quick snap of mine :)
Cologne Reloaded was composed almost entirely of vintage materials the perfumer apparently found, or was gifted by someone. The result is exactly as expected, an ancient smelling cologne. Of course citrus oils would have long since gone bad, so there are practically no citrus notes here. Instead, it’s a lavender smoke-bomb of a fragrance. Tons of birch tar, aromatic herbs, astringent, medicinal, bracing, very smoky… It’s one hell of a creation, that dries down to a rather dandified baby powder finale. Hard to wear, but every time I do I love it so much. A brave, and a very interesting release from a very new niche house – this perfumer Antonio Gardoni is one to keep an eye out for. His fragrance Eau D’E for Bogue is also really beautiful!

Santal Exotique

Santal Exotique by The Exotic Island Perfumer

This fragrance is an absolute must try for any sandalwood lovers, any lovers of spicy, Christmas-y gourmands… cinnamon, hot milk, cocoa, sandalwood galore, wood galore in general… It’s a mature gourmand, not at all foody, even more opulent than any of Serge Lutens’ sandalwood interpretations! This puts so many poor sandalwood attempts to shame… and in fact, Juan Perez’s whole line The Exotic Island Perfumer is outstanding. Santal Exotique I didn’t expect to love as much as I did, yet I find myself wearing it most evenings… absolutely comforting, beautifully balanced, totally wearable, and very alluring. A warm, spicy comfort and a reference sandalwood fragrance.

There you go guys! Hope you enjoyed my favourites of 2013… I cannot recommend you sampling these enough!!!!

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Ingrid – Tableau De Parfums

Miriam is one of my greatest perfume discoveries, I adore it. Loretta was absolutely wonderful – the Tableau de Parfum line has so far been extraordinary, so I was ridiculously excited to get my nose on the final fragrance in the collection by perfumer Andy Tauer: Ingrid.

Ingrid Tableau de Parfums

Ingrid starts sharp and overwhelmingly complicated. Spiced citrus up top, bergamot, orange, lemon, clove, cinnamon – a hit of sweet sherbert… a crowded thing, difficult to pull apart but slowly begins to fall into place. The spiced citrus dominates up top, extremely classical, slightly dated with the heavy use of clove – reminding me of the citrus in the opening of Incense Rose, and also the spiced orange of Noir Epices (although far thicker). The cinnamon in the background is almost bitter, heating up Ingrid into a less green, less cardamom-heavy version of Eau D’Epices. There seems to be a little bay leaf, and maybe even pimento berry… the sheer warmth of the spice adds such a humidity to Ingrid it is literally dizzying.

The florals begin to come in… in time. Rose shows up first and for me, dominates. It’s a mixed bag of roses, on one side, fresh, bright and citrus-y… Moroccan? With a more potent, Bulgarian style rich, red beauty. It’s deep, dark, totally lush, with the clean aspect giving an ever so slight soapiness, providing a much-needed breath of fresh air in the surrounding darkness of Ingrid. The frangipani that also dominates is bizarre. It feels totally out-of-place, or let’s say, adjusting to a new surrounding. I’ve never smelt frangipani like this, I think we’re all too used to it in the background, next to maybe some tuberose or ylang… it’s a plush, dense tropical floral with a suede-like texture, here made more abrasive by the clove and cinnamon… but overall, it manages to give this more suede-like floral feel, acting as a harmonizer (usually the roses’ job?). It’s fantastic, and hugely original. It has a subtle suggestion of peach skin to it, and just a hint of greenery. There are other florals darting around, a flash of hyacinth (before the rose and frangipani come in and take over), a mirage of mangolia (maybe a combination of the citrus in the opening and the slightly waxy frangipani), and jasmine, sharpening the more bass-like noise of Ingrid.

Vanilla in the base adds a powdered, almost sherbert-y quality, similarly to how it’s used in the base of Miriam. But the spice entwines with it, along with a sharper dose of woods (sandalwood/cedar) and a little vetiver. I get a bunch of balsams and resins, along with a splash of civet. There’s a cumin-y sweatiness to it, and the patchouli/civet combo in the base add this sticky, overly rich finale which lasts on the skin for the duration of the heart and dry down. From afar, this thing throws of a true skank vibe, but not at all human-unclean. It’s so complex… but harmonious I assure you. Oh and of course it has some signature Tauerade going on, ambergris, tonka, lovely lovely!

So, after all this, reading it back, not even I would have a single clue how Ingrid smells if I hadn’t tried it already. So, en bref?
Spiced, thick citrus>> clove and cinnamon>> rich red roses, frangipani, jasmine>> vanilla, patchouli, woods and pure animal>> Tauerade. A stunningly original, oriental composition with some totally unexpected inclusions. On paper, it sounds like it shouldn’t work… but Tauer has this way of holding things together, and only just… which makes it so much more fun on your skin. An outstanding finale to the Tableau de Parfums line.

Tableau de Parfums 50ml EDP Ingrid – £110 http://www.scent-and-sensibility.co.uk

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NOONTIDE Petals – Tauer

Noontide Petals is the new release from Tauer Perfumes. I actually tried this back in December 2012 when visiting Andy Tauer’s, but I was off my tits on cherry schnapps so had practically no recollection of it. Very keen to get my nose on it again… here’s my sample! YAY.

Noontide Petals

First spray… Miriam is that you? The same blinding aldehyde bomb up top opens Noontide Petals, that tinge of bergamot (maybe a bit of lemon in here?), a gigantic Chanel-like soapiness with the heart thoroughly hidden below the thick, white layer. The citrus may be a little heavier, but when I sampled Noontide Petals again, I literally struggled to differentiate them – totally confused as to where to start reviewing this one. So I decided to spray Miriam on my other hand to compare…

Holy shit you guys are completely different what the hell?! No joke… I have loved Miriam since I first laid my nose on it, and wear it extremely regularly. I feel like I know that perfume back to front, but this little comparison has opened my eyes to new nuances of Miriam… which I will discuss later :D

BACK TO NOONTIDE… This soapy, lemon-y, aldehyde bomb gets gradually more floral – a rose being the lead, followed by a honeyed ylang ylang, bringing to mind the honeyed, white floral aldehyde bomb of Chanel No.22 (mmmm!). Obviously I friggin’ love it!  I get little hints of orchid? – which at times seems to dominate the florals. The rose isn’t at all a big, red, exotic-thing like in Incense Rose or Un Rose Chypree… it’s a fresh, yellow smelling blossom that you need sunglasses to see (aldehydes still sticking like glitter over this!). Gorgeous, summery and classy, with an underlying Tauer-touch ready to come out later.

The leading floral bouquet (like Miriam), smells alien, blended to an almost unidentifiable, lactonic consistency that smells  futurisitc (the genious being how perfect it is with a swarm of “old-fashioned” soapy aldehydes on top of it). The citrus manages to penetrate it, this lemon lasting much longer than expected… mixed with the lactonic notes of the white florals (a slightly oily tuberose accord? a-la Loretta?), it smells almost like a magnolia. Ok so I’m listing florals galore… I go back to my point about the alien aroma of it… these modern, Tauer aldehydic-florals are truly unlike any other – not at all as straightforward as what you’ve smelt before.
I get just a touch of the jasmine, squeaky-clean and traditional – bringing to mind the honeyed-aldehydic-jasmine of First by Van Cleef and Arpels… but still, this “orchid” vibe is what I can’t get out my head – tainted with the rose. I think Tauer has invented some hybrid floral…

Noontide Petals
Accompanying artwork for Noontide Petals by Andy Tauer.

The drydown gets sweeter as a slightly powdery vanilla leads into a subtle smoke of frankincense, and woods (very dry sandalwood and what smells like a similar rosewood note to Pentachord White). The frankincense turns just a touch metallic and keeps the glistening quality from the opening through to the very end of Noontide Petals. I also get a subtle medicinal note, it smells like a combination of geranium (although it’s a bit late for that?) and a kind of hyper-clean laundry musk, tainted with something resinous… yeh I really can’t get my head around dissecting this :P
So, how does it differ from Miriam? Well… spraying these side by side, I suddenly got a huge, almond-biscotti vibe from Miriam… can’t say I’ve ever smelt that in here before… Miriam suddenly has become even more alien to me: the citrus more muted than I thought, the greenery more herbal but spoiled (in a good way!) by this abstract gourmand accord. I get heliotrope and lilac… two things I have never smelt in Miriam before… and a much more resinous, heavy and dense drydown finishes Miriam – slathered with powder and a greater violet/iris dominating floral accord. Suddenly Miriam smells like I’ve never smelt it before, yet when I tried Noontide (before comparing), I would’ve sworn they were the same thing. I now love my Miriam even more <3 Tauer you cheeky minx! Getting me all confused.

SO: Noontide? Awesome. I gotta say, Miriam is the love of my life, but this is almost like Miriam in Spring (perfect timing for the release) – a much lighter (not a bad thing), easier to wear (not a bad thing) – aldehyde-heavy floral that smells fresh, modern, yet timeless. I’m thrilled Andy has put a fragrance like this in his line up (it must suck a little bit making something as glorious as Miriam and having it under a name not your own!). But yes… get your nose on this one <3 Another absolute beauty.

NOONTIDE Petals 50ml EDT Tauer – http://www.tauerperfumes.com (not yet released)

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SMELLYTHOUGHTS In Zurich… Day 7 (Dinner at Andy Tauer’s with Vero Kern)

Hi guys!!!

Today is my final day in Zurich (and also my birthday!) and I’ve loved it here so far.
On the first day, I visited Osswalds – a perfume shop in the city centre which has one of the most impressive selections I’ve seen, they have EVERYTHING.
So after a bit of walking around sniffing, I realized I wouldn’t be shopping in Zurich because the prices are soooo expensive! Lutens’ and Parfum D’Empire? You’re looking at about £110+ a bottle. So, quite scary – but I’ve found that almost everywhere in Zurich. It’s such an expensive city I’ve been on the biggest budget ever here. The little bar under my hotel wants the equivalent of £18 for a burger…. it’s insane. But I guess that’s been a good thing really, more money to spend in Paris and Rome!

Ok so, last night… where do I begin? Well, last night was my arranged dinner with Andy Tauer and Vero Kern, all very exciting stuff. So after having some preliminary “nerve calming” red wines back in my hotel, I hopped on the tram and amazingly, managed to not get lost.
I could smell Andy’s house literally before I walked through his front door – a light Tauerade pretty much filled each room.

Tauer Vero Freddie

So, Andy is lovely – he made me feel right at home, which I was hugely appreciative of considering I hadn’t had a proper conversation with anyone for nearly a week! We chilled, drank some beer, and chopped vegetables, shortly followed by a tour of his pad.
So Andy and Werner (his partner) showed me where all the backstage stuff happens for the Tauer brand, and it’s totally true when Andy says he runs everything from home. His little studio in the backroom behind the kitchen is overloaded with a big bottles of aroma chemicals, samples galore, there’s fridges full of raw materials, there’s vintage bottles of his own fragrances and other brands’ perfumes scattered around the cupboards… overwhelming, but a bit of a paradise really! I just wanted to dig my nose into everything. I also got a little tour of their office and library; Andy and Werner seem to have an absolutely perfect set up, having your own studio in your house seems like a dream environment to work in. What’s amazing is the solid relationship Andy and Werner can have when also working in such close proximity all the time (Werner is also the book keeper and Andy’s right hand man when it comes to large orders and all the complicated stuff with the Tauer brand) – they were both charming company. It was fascinating chatting with Werner too, considering he had no real passion or interest in fragrance until Andy started creating, and suddenly in a matter of years has found himself immersed in a world of perfume. I have to admit I felt a little guilty constantly keeping the conversation on fragrance around Werner as I could only imagine it must drive him crazy with everyone wanting to ask Andy questions, but he’s embraced Andy’s work so thoroughly and his insights and knowledge was fascinating.

Vero arrived a little while later with pretty much the most adorable dog I’d ever seen – a little black brussels griffon (I think) called Izi(sp?). At this point the fizzy was cracked out (wine…beer…fizzy, I hope you’re keeping track too) and we pretty much had a big natter about everything – upcoming brands, Basenotes members, favourite frags, perfume construction, particular bloggers, what brands are doing it right, and which ones aren’t, upcoming releases – endless conversations covering every aspect of life as a perfumer. Oh and during all this, gradually getting more and more pissed as two bottles of red wine vanished in a matter of hours and the cherry schnapps to go with the cherry-schnapps-soaked cake seemed to keep refilling in my glass.

Andy Vero

Vero spoke about her upcoming work which I’m extremely excited to sniff – it sounds wonderful. We also spoke about her previous ideas for her line and what direction Mito was originally going to go in, it was fascinating hearing all these ideas that could have come to light but didn’t – but new paths mean new things and it sounds like she has some great new things for us up her sleeve.
We spoke briefly about the construction of some of her work and the differences between creating the parfums and eau de parfums, how the formula’s needed to be altered and why her passion fruit signature from the first three fragrances didn’t work in Mito (it was changed to peach).

Andy and I spoke about Lys Du Desert for a bit and how it’s so “old school Tauer” – I’d been wondering since sniffing it why he hadn’t taken a drastic new direction for the Decennial scent. He said though that he knew he wanted to create this fragrance for a long time after visiting the Joshua Tree each time he was in LA – he didn’t really give a true answer other than saying “That’s just how it turned out!” which is actually, completely fair! I really love the smell of Lys Du Desert – and I think when you try the newer work of Andy, you forget just how awesome his Classics line really is – and Lys Du Desert is like a new, classic Tauer – I have a bit more of an appreciation for it now!
But on the topic of new directions for Tauer’s line… well, my mouth is zipped, but my nose is d-e-s-p-e-r-a-t-e for more! Trust me – keep your noses peeled, something awesome comes! ;)

Werner Andy Vero

So originally I planned to ask particular questions, and I took my laptop to jot down answers and stuff so I could make this post be an interview – but I’m so glad it didn’t work out like that. It just… wasn’t right. The company of Andy, Werner and Vero was nowhere near as formal as I thought it would be (no need for those pre-drinks after all), it was so relaxed and laid back that I didn’t crack out the laptop or the notepad once (apart from to show them my itinerary and what shops I’m visiting in Paris and Rome – they gave me some more “must visit” places).  So I left just after midnight, I can’t quite say I remember my tram ride back to the hotel… but a lovely birthday-celebration night it was!

Vero has invited me to her pad this afternoon, and Andy is doing a talk later on white florals which we’ll both be attending (although I won’t understand any of it, I said I’d just nod along and smile!). So more posts to come! :) Yay Zurich! And tomorrow… off to Paris :D

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SMELLYTHOUGHT’S 2012 Winter Vacation! (2 week disappearance)

Hi guys, Freddie here :)

Well, tomorrow is the day I go on holiday. I haven’t spoken about this much on here yet – but tomorrow I leave for Berlin. I stay in Berlin for four days – then off to Zurich for 3 days, Paris for 4, Rome for 3, then back home :)
I’m travelling alone so it’s a little scary – but I have tons of places to visit and things I can’t wait to get my hands on!

map

I think the standout event I have planned, is dinner at Andy Tauer’s  in Zurich with Vero Kern also a dinner guest :) It’s the day before my birthday and they’ve been extremely welcoming. I can’t wait to meet them, pick their brains and have a lovely evening in great company.

I also am super excited to visit the CampoMarzio70 stores in Rome – stockists of O’Driu and tons of other obscure, uber-niche brands!

So yes, tons of things planned, lovely people to meet and places to see. Hopefully my hotel rooms will have Wi-Fi and I can keep you guys posted on all the gossip and maybe slip a review or two in there on things I sniff whilst away :D

Look forward to reading what everyone else has been up to when I get back!

Freddie x

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L’Air Du Desert Marocain – Tauer

Being on a roll with some classic fragrances, I thought I’d throw in LADDM, or, L’Air Du Desert Marocain by the insanely talented Andy Tauer.
How to I even being to describe this scent?

L’Air Du Desert Marocain opens with the scalding scent of tar, but it’s not unpleasant at all. Instead this thick black intensity becomes filled with lush spices, sharp dry incense and “Tauer-ade”.
After just a couple of minutes once you’ve attempted to get your head around the hot, desert air opening (very original I know…), a warm amber softens the composition to something much more bearable.

So, you have the lush Tauer spices of cumin, some pepper and some other kitchen spices I can’t quite pick out… there’s a hot dry incense, a thick tar like note, some amber that is both crumbly and resinous yet slightly creamy and skin like, followed by some deep earthy vetiver. It is everything all at once, and utterly transcendent.
LADDM transports you to an utterly calm place in your mind. It is relaxing, spatial, meditative and warming.

How do I know what the air in Morocco smells like? – LADDM reminds me of bonfires, camping, late summer nights, holidays, sunshine, college and my school friends, fireworks, the beach… it just makes me feel great, it smells… great. But then again, so do a lot of Tauer’s. I find his fragrances absolutely transporting and captivating. I cannot smell one without feeling flooded with thoughts, images and my imagination runs wild.

I think Luca Turin described Incense Rose as “…So warm, so welcoming, you feel as if you’ve just heard a piece of good news you cannot quite remember.”. It describes Incense Rose, L’Air Du Desert Marocain, Orange Star and Lonestar Memories all perfectly, probably along with numerous other Tauer’s which I haven’t even sniffed yet. I don’t think I can top that quote.

Back to the scent though. It remains relatively linear, the tar burns off greatly and leaves the dry heat of the incense, amber, vetiver and spices filling the air around you throughout its life. The fragrance I think is pretty much indescribable in the sense that no review you can read can quite create the picture in your head that LADDM does, you just have to sniff it. That’s why this review is much more descriptive visually than literally.

If you are reading reviews of this and haven’t tried this fragrance yet, stop reading, just try it. Don’t go in with the greatest expectations but just smell it for what it is, it’s very rarely an instant love and you instead come to appreciate it over time.
The only reason I don’t own a bottle is for this reason, it takes time to truly love. For me, most Tauer’s are like this, but L’Air Du Desert Marocain has taken the longest to become attached to. Also, I just cannot decide which one I want to own first! Andy Tauer is an exceptional perfumeur and in my opinion extremely underrated.
Everyone knows this is his signature fragrance, and whilst reading about it on forums and such can often become tiring, just sniffing it once again reminds you why.
It is a complete masterpiece.

L’Air Du Desert Marocain Tauer 50ml EDT Intense – 79.70 Euros www.tauerperfumes.com

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Tauer – Orange Star & Incense Rose

I absolutely adore both of these fragrances, and in fact, I love most of Tauer’s line (from what I’ve tried anyway). The only reason I do not own a full bottle yet is I simply can’t make up my mind as to what I want first!

I’ll start with Orange Star.
I am not into citrus fruits in fragrances, at all. I read somewhere that this was a citrus for people who don’t like citrus, and the combination between the juicy clementines and incense and amber etc. sounded fantastic.

Orange Star opens with an unbelievably juicy clementine and mandarine, but it doesn’t come across as edible at all. It’s very hard to describe. It is completely mouthwatering! It smells clean, but not “fresh” clean like most citrus scents. It is deep, almost resinous, and reminds me more of a marmalade than a fresh fruit. Although it is not listed in the notes, I am sure I can smell cardamon in there as well as some beautiful sticky vanilla bean, but the vanilla bean is minimal and exceptionally blended and gives me of a texture and sweetness rather than a vanilla extract scent.

After some minutes the patchouli starts to creep in, it is very green, and works beautifully with the tart oranges. On first application, this stage of the fragrance reminded me of Gorilla Perfumes’ Karma fragrance, only this is of absolutely exceptional quality and has far more depth.
The sweetness begins to smell quite honeyed, reminding me again of the tart marmalade in the opening. The patchouli, ambergris and rich honeyed clementines and mandarins swirl around each other in absolute perfect balance all the way through the heart. A slightly soapy note joins in, but it is not unpleasant at all, it works just to keep the incense, patchouli and amber more on the clean side.

The fragrance in the later drydown loses its tartness but stays completely rich and full of life and character.
Really, really wonderful!!

Incense Rose somehow also opens mouthwatering, despite their being nothing edible in it at all. It is tart, rich, and absolutely sparkling. A jammy rose is buried deep amongst some beautiful burning frankincense and cedar wood, and lovely and bright at top is a similar juicy bergamot and clementine. The wood is resinous and soaked in the rose and smoke. Yet again, the rose manages to remain clean amongst all the darkness – and that’s exactly what this fragrance is – dark. It opens bright and sparkling and quickly descends into a spiral of black smoke, rich spicy incense, ambergris and woods with occasional dazzling sparks of bright red bursting from the base.

Patchouli is in there too keeping the fragrance fresh, green, but slightly earthy. At the base is the “Tauerade” combination of ambergris and vanilla and anyone who has sniffed L’Air du Desert Marocain will recognise it at the base of this fragrance, and Orange Star at that. The “Tauerade” is absolutely beautiful, dry, incensey and airy. It literally floats around you like a meditative cloud.

Both Orange Star and Incense Rose have incredible longevity and sillage, I’m blown away by the quality of these and the strong effect they have on me. I would highly recommend both of them to anyone, and I think they are fantastic value for money as a bottle would last me years and years.

Well done Andy Tauer, you are my favourite perfumeur to date.

Tauer Incense Rose & Orange Star 50ml EDP – Euro 85.50 RRP
(The cheapest price I have found for these online is the official tauerperfumes.com site!)

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