Classic Patchouli – Von Eusersdorff

Classic Patchouli opens with as expected, a huge blast of warm, earthy patchouli – completely headshop and stuffy (but I love that) – but a beautiful patchouli it is. There’s no sourness, the edges aren’t overly smoothed out so it still has a good rough, dark side, the scent of earth comes only from the complicated note itself instead of any added green notes. It has a bitter, herbal kick to it that reminds me of chinese medicine shops – but yet again, it seems nothing’s added – just a perfect patchouli soliflore opening.

As time goes on, Classic Patchouli gets sweeter, with a vanilla/benzoin combination coming in – now, the vanilla isn’t the kind I like – it starts to turn breathy and a bit clammy on my skin, but for some reason, it never creeps over the edge of being uncomfortable and I kind of perversely like it! I describe it as “eggy” vanilla :’) after sniffing Mona Di Orio’s Vanille which was a train wreck on my skin – but I couldn’t quite call it that here. Instead it gives Classic Patchouli a bizarre lactonic effect as though it has a “warm milk accord” sitting underneath the patchouli – it’s an unusual combination when I really think about it, and it reminds me of the contrast between vanilla and vetiver in Fat Electritian that juts about works… it’s the same kind of thing here.

So, this sweet milky patchouli gets lighter as the drydown begins, reminding me almost of patchouli scented whipped cream if you can picture that – but still with that herbal, earthy edge that just curdles it and makes it a little uncomfortable (totally my thing). A soft sandalwood (maybe some cedar too) sits in the base and I’m guessing a touch of amber (which begins to give Classic Patchouli a hint of powder), but the patchouli is undoubtably the lead.

There’s little more than can be said about such a direct, patchouli fragrance – but this is a really really good one. In the same vein as Borneo 1834 – I find this really comfortable and easy to wear, mainly just because I love patchouli. The execution of Classic Patchouli is beautifully done, the ingredients smell fantastic, and I love the subtle contrast in textures – one of the best patchouli soliflores I’ve smelt

Classic Patchouli 100ml EDP Von Eusersdorff – 115 Euros
http://www.voneusersdorff.com

Youtube Video: Favourite Incense Fragrances

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Classic Mimosa – Von Eusersdorff

Classic Mimosa has a rounded, de-sharpened note of leaf alcohol up top – an aromachemical that in concetration smells like a lawnmower (motor oil and cut grass). It’s a chemical I love and rarely smell in a fragrance. The slightly petrol like hit is still there but subtly, the fresh-mown grass accord soft on the skin, fresh and dewy.

The florals come in quickly – a hint of powdery violets and neroli. A slight citrus adds a cologne-like freshness whilst the florals make sure it doesn’t go too masculine. The mimosa comes in shortly after – a little bit of powder and a delicate almond scent similar to heliotrope scatters over the top of Classic Mimosa – it’s not as sweet as I expected, the almond slightly bitter with a papery texture. A subtle, salty marine note adds some clarity, retaining the freshness of the opening – the combination of salt and powdery florals bringing to mind Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle, only with more warmth and a greater floral heart.

There’s a subtle rose in the mix, but for once it doesn’t stand out on my skin as the leading note as it so often does in floral arrangements. The rose that is there is tinged with a cool green, turning more into a geranium aroma (a note I’ve really began to love!). The powdery mimosa (which gradually loses it’s almond notes) and the violet infused driftwood lead a light, sweet, powdery but fresh heart and it’s really lovely. Orange blossom underneath acts almost as a resin, providing some depth to the airy florals

The base turns musky but clean, with a smidge of vanilla sweetening the florals and driftwood – making sure it never turns murky or soiled. The fragrance just manages to stay damp and fresh on the skin – the flowers smelling dewy rather than overtly powdery – but the powder does become more prominant later in the development. There seems to be a tiny hint of vetiver in the base that I wish was a little more potent (to continue the salty, earthy feel of the marine notes).
But all in all, Classic Mimosa is a really enjoyable fragrance. It seems to be the wrong season to have my little bottle but I’ll definitely be cracking it out in the spring, and maybe every now and again in the winter to put a smile on my face! A light and beautifully fresh, sea floral without an overload of calone, sparse translucency or dense, synthetic, aquatic disguises. Recommended!

Classic Mimosa 100ml EDP Von Eusersdorff – 115 Euros
http://www.voneusersdorff.com

Classic Myrrh – Von Eusersdorff

The lovely people at Von Eusersdorff contacted me about their line, so infront of me now are 10ml bottles of each of the fragrances – beautiful presentation, and some unusual choices for soliflores.
Myrrh and me don’t normally get on (with the exception of La Myrrhe) - so I was eager to try this one…

Classic Myrrh opens with a lovely, rich cedar and incense. A punch of pepper spikes the top notes and the warm, dry, sharp wood hits like an olfactory splinter in the nose. The incense starts similarly sharp, with a slightly bitter citrus edge. The smoke, whilst a little intense and a little metallic at first, mellows out to a point where it hovers above the skin (but still perfectly visible).

The incense isn’t quite churchy, but the assocation is there – what I love though is the addition of a little powdered violet, fizzy like candy, but de-sweetened by the woods and the uprising patchouli underneath. The violet incense is a beautiful, slightly minimalistic combination that comes across as clean, crisp and smart and gives Classic Myrrh its own little personality.

The woody incense is a familiar combination – but thankfully is comforting rather than boring. It’s balance is perfect and it’s execution is lovely – light and diffusive but the intense woods anchor some weight to the skin. It brings to mind a more cedar rich Avignon -  without the awkward sense of space I often struggle with – and without the novelty of a literal church incense.

A damp earthiness underneath of patchouli and a smidge of vetiver secure the base – along with a creamy sandalwood to smooth out the rough edges of the cedar and incense. The texture becomes rich and smooth, radiating a mystery warm spice. The violet disappears and re-appears throughout the fragrance, and at times it feels incense rich, at other times woody, and then I get a beautiful powdery violet that brings to mind Dans Tes Bras, popping up when you least expect it. As a violet fragrance, I love this more than as an incense – the pairing is fantastic and something I’m surprised hasn’t been done (to my knowledge) before, I love this kind of violet – and drying it out with Lutens-esque woods and frankincense is exquisite.

As I said, Classic Myrrh does smell familiar (and I’m quite thankful it’s not a big rubbery, breathy myrrh – although I hoped I’d find one to change my mind on the note!), but it’s an incense I’d highly recommend. Not as cold and straightforward as Avignon – or as warm and clean as Cardinal (although both fantastic fragrances) – but a smooth, dry, classy take on an incense perfume – lovely!

Classic Myrrh 100ml EDP Von Eusersdorff – 115 Euros voneusersdorff.com