Category Archives: Vero Profumo

Videos: Smellythoughts on Vero Profumo & Magnetic Scent Perfumes

Ok ok! So I said I wouldn’t post videos on here again. WELL, I’ve decided against it. I work hard on these videos, and I’ll post them because of that :D Ignore them if you’re not liking them. Amazingly, my channel is going very well on YouTube despite having only 10 videos so far, I’m getting a bit of support! And it’s a little more content on here…
Finally getting to grips with video making now, all audio, cut scenes and blah blah, is now perfect.
Anyway. Here are the last two:

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Video: SMELLYTHOUGHTS’ Fragrance Starting Lineup 2013

A new video here!
Please excuse the unflattering stalling towards the end of the video :) x

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SMELLYTHOUGHTS’ 1 Year Anniversary + Freddie’s Best of 2012

Hello!
Ok, I’m gonna crack straight on with this.

First of all: Happy New Year :)
Now that’s out the way – here’s what I loved and discovered in 2012.

My Favourite 3 Fragrances in 2012:

Haute Claire

Haute Claire (far too closely followed by Secret Garden) by Aftelier Perfumes. Both of these fragrances are a tie for me, completely different, but absolutely beautiful. The richest, most naturally grand florals I have smelt – truly beautiful, wearable and classic – timeless fragrances that will be with me for a long time. Outstanding!

Rubj EDP

Rubj EDP by Vero Profumo is simply awesome. A sexy, volumptuous floral with an unexpected, almost tropical/sour “fresh” slice of green passionfruit smothering it. Mouthwatering, huge, and an absolute necessity. Exceptional.

Miriam

Miriam by Tableau De Parfums is a modern classic. It combines so many elements of fragrances I love into something seamless – the aldehydic resins of La Myrrhe, the aldehydic white floral/incense combo of No.22, various fragmented particles of classic Tauer’s such as the bay of Un Rose Chypree, the violet/iris of Pentachord White… I can go on… but it is its own being – Miriam is gorgeous.

Most Unexpected Beauty:

M/Mink

M/Mink by Byredo completely took me by surprise. After months of thinking I hated it (after trying it only twice on paper) – I found it’s evolution on the skin absolutely captivating. Whilst I still struggle to wear it, when I finally accept that it’s a beeswax/incense/patchouli and not the fishy atrocity that my mind conjurs up – I love it.

New Talent:

Indigo

Mangetic Scent is an awesome line. Indigo was one of my sampling highlights of the year and I can’t wait to get my hands on a full bottle. The packaging is beautiful, the fragrances are truly brilliant and I can’t wait to see what this guy comes out with next :D

Best Marketing and Packaging:

O'Driu

In all honesty, O’Driu is pretty pompous and poncy (a little cringeworthy at times)… but judging the brand through it’s products, marketing and advertising – it owns. Not only have they kicked off massively solely from threads on Basenotes, the gorgeous sample packages were handed out extremely generously, and the packaging is fantastic. I love the boxes stuffed with feathers and hessian, the advertising images are beautiful, the bottles are solid (although a bit wierd, when you buy 50ml, you get 50ml in a 100ml bottle…), and I like the atomizers (but wouldn’t use it – evapouration and all that shit). All in all, kudos to you O’Driu.

Oh and just in the category of advertising, Lady Gaga’s Fame commercial was brilliant (there, I said it)… as we all know, the fragrance was piss poor.

Sad To See Go:

Eau D'Epices

Eau D’Epices got discontinued this year – which gave me a little heartache… but it’ll be back next year I believe so no big deal :P I guess it’s removal from the market re-trigged my admiration for this challenging composition. I will get it when it returns!

A list of other fragrances I loved in 2012:

Iris Silver Mist
Sepia
Bosque
Chypre Rouge
Musc Maori
Putain Des Palaces
Ambra Nera
CDG EDP 2011
Bolt Of Lightning/Fermes Tes Yeux/Jarling
Tawaf

Ok so you might be wondering where all the hate is here? In all honesty – there’s too many to write about and compile into neat categories, so I’m just gonna real some off and get the dirty stuff over with…

Crap of the year:

Seville A L’Aube (loved smelling the ingredients that went in it… didn’t like ‘em all together…)
Serge Noire/L’Eau/L’Eau Froide/Nuit De Cellophane (obvious reasons)

BEX
(the write ups that started the trouble)
Sentifique
(words can’t describe these fragrances… so I won’t try) 
Jean-Claude Ellena’s Dreary Diary (and most of his work)
Seven Veils
(I still re-live the nightmare of when it hit my skin)
Jovoy
(the line, not the shop)
Blah blah blah – I have a terrible memory and the list could go on forever, trust me. That’ll do for now :)

So yes – every bloggers doing these in far more detail so there’s my little two cents. Thanks for the support everyone <3<3<3

Freddie x

Oh, and some perfect music… just because :)

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Mito EDP – Vero Profumo

So I received a wonderful surprise package from the generous people at Campomarzio70.
Inside? A sample of the much-anticipated new 2012 release from Vero Profumo - Mito.

I probably should live with this for a while longer, but I just can’t wait, I have to write about it! :)


Fabulous illustration by Sofo Berdzenishvili!

Mito opens with a wonderful bitter greenery in the style of Papyrus De Ciane by Parfumerie Generale, only this is much more dispersed and wearable. Before you know it, the bitter reeds and galbanum tumble into an intense citrus accord that literally erupts out of nowhere.

The lemon is so intense it reminds me of some of the O’Driu herbal openings, only yet again – more wearable, and much more appetizing. It has the sharp yet syrupy intensity of a lemon sherbert candy and the delicious but unedible accord penetrates the opening of Mito for some time.
A sweetness underneath gives us a wink to the floral accord that is to come - the rugged greenery retreats into the background, adding a brilliant bitter edge that literally cuts through the flourescent citrus.

The great thing about the opening is that it is a full, glossy citrus with absolutely no aquatic notes in sight. Instead it is enriched with tart, syrupy goodness before a quick, sly flare of magnolia’s blossom before your nose. The magnolia accord is slick, and creeps in underneath the already present citrus, it’s presence only detectable from a fantastic “waxy” texture and the slightest smear of vanilla. The delicate vanilla was detectable from the start but I mistook it not for a hiding base note. The magnolias add a further density to the lemon drops, whose greenery verges on a true to life lemongrass.

The lemongrass/vanilla combo reminds me of Leva by O’Driu - only Leva’s intense green olive note and oily texture makes herself and Mito almost polar opposites. The vanillic accords in here which seem to come only from the white floral bouquet, are considerably less sweet and firm than the almost congealed drydown of Leva – whilst I love that vanilla, this is far more obedient but more fun to wear.

Anyway, I keep going on about this vanilla as though it’s a main player – it’s not. The citrus harmony mellows, with the slightly fruity, slightly creamy, slightly green mangolia’s blooming underneath – a green jasmine creeps in without notice as well, imparting a subtle but present richness to round out the tangy lemon sherberts. I at times feel like I can detect a slightly powdery orris root which I absolutely love, but it may be a combination of other things. There definitely is the occasional subdued waft of vegetal powder that creates a wonderful matted texture over the fragrance.

The slow drydown (which is so seamless from the heart that you don’t realise Mito is submerging to the green core), becomes smooth, rich with a creamy texture from the volumptuous florals and soft furry moss. The moss in the base I guess makes Mito a chypre, but not as overtly obvious as Rubj. Here the base is soft, furry, almost human in its natural fluffy texture. It isn’t as bitter and prominent as the green edge in Rubj - the green facets of citrus and the white florals help smooth out the earthy base and create an effortless blend from start to finish. Mito is delicate and sleek with no knots in its transition, the knots that make some of Vero’s older compositions sometimes challenging.

The unfortunate thing for me in Mito is the lack of passion fruit – the confronting Vero signature that creates a translucent attack across the outer edges of all the other Vero EDP’s, if it is in Mito - it is extremely subdued to a point where I can’t detect it. I would love to smell that terrifyingly unique signature splattered across the citrus florals of Mito, but unfortunately – I do miss it.

However, Mito is a wonderful citrus (coming from a non citrus-soliflore lover), with the white florals creating something that is a perfect summer release, and a completely new addition to her line up. Not as challenging and complicated as Onda and Rubj, but more a partner to Kiki in the easily loveable and wearable side of the Vero house – no less beautiful.
These are initial impressions so I’ll be sure to update on further wearings :)

Vero Profumo Mito 50ml EDP – Released September 2012!!

Image copyright of Diego Comi Ph. Artwork by  Sofo Berdzenishvili.

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Vero Profumo – Rubj EDP, Rubj Parfum

The final Vero fragrance reviews here. I have lived with them a little longer than those in my previous reviews, but still feel incomplete in my thorough understanding of them. So as always, here’s where I learn everything else…

Rubj EDP opens with a beautiful citrus with Vero’s creamy, passion fruit note instantly recognizable.
This quickly tumbles into an intense orange blossom aroma, with a bizarre anise providing a 10 second flicker. The openings to the Vero Profumo Eau De Parfum’s are so much to take in at once that my fingers can’t keep up with my writing.

So back to the opening whilst I remember… The citrus burst is both floral, and acidic. The creamy passion fruit signature (that has a urinal resemblance as mentioned in my other Vero reviews) ties Rubj together with both Onda and Kiki. The orange blossom merges with a full, voluptuous tuberose - rubbery and thoroughly narcotic. The florals are in balance with neither dominating, but both thrown out in full force. Bizarrely, the narcotic qualities of these florals paired with whatever else is going on in the base, give off an almost fruity-berry like aroma. This de-sweetened acidic fruit note ties Rubj to its name with a scarlet colour. The subtle yet unusual transformation reminds me of how the orange blossom in Parfumerie Generale’s Cuir Venenum turns into grape soda (only in a much more obvious manner).

Cutting under the white floral bouquet is a deep green oakmoss and a sharp wood (cedar I assume), that is almost as potent as the florals, making this an instantly recognizable chypre (something that I normally struggle detecting). The bitter greenery underneath is something that I’m not all that used to and am never sure whether I thoroughly enjoy it or not. Having said that, it is a wonderful change to my usual familiarity with tuberose in which it is always layered over something enhancing it’s thick, creaminess - coconut, musk, benzoin, sandalwood etc. Here the green chypre base of patchouli and oakmoss really balance out the sweetness and add an almost astringent quality to Rubj.

The passion fruit signature remains ever-present for a long time, imparting its familiar almost industrial aroma which seemed exaggerated in Onda. However, here, paired with the narcotic florals and bitter oakmoss greenery, everything seems to fall into a perfect harmony that feels both desperately modern, and so classical it becomes familiar. As a chypre, the base never fully tumbles into the depths of the greenery thanks to this neoteric passion fruit, verging on an almost overtly synthetic feel that keeps Rubj bright and electric – I have learnt to love this sharp and daring signature.

Rubj is clear and collected, defying expectations of accords and fragrant families with perfect execution.

Rubj Parfum (extrait) pushes forward with the narcotics even further with an immediate opening of hugely indolic jasmine. The magic mystery ingredient yet again produces a subtle berry aroma, and a tuberose I’m sure hides in the heart only much more restrained.

Here in the heart, the jasmine settles down and the orange blossom pushes forward until yet again, they are on par. Neither the jasmine or the rich orange blossom take the lead, but instead they become slightly sweeter than the EDP, yet more restrained without the uplift of the passion fruit (even though I still somehow get the feel of it).

A musk joins the rich florals and seems to provide this decadent, dirty and dusty angle. However, the scrubbed up florals and the signature Vero astringency, balance everything out into a composition that sways in and out of indolic, animalic excessiveness, and soapy, clean clarity. The result is something that becomes, thankfully, restrained and comfortable - more apparently as the heart fades into the drydown. A now streamlined fragrance settles - a green edge similar to that in the EDP is present here, along with the almost medicated berry accord still tying together the top notes with the base.

The jasmine and orange blossom tame greatly and the fragrance never falls to the darkness of say, the Onda extrait, but similarly has the greater depth and warmth. Whilst the Rubj Parfum isn’t my favourite of the trio, it is something that I feel is completely new to me, and thoroughly enjoyable for that. As with the other Vero extraits, this feels considerably more simplified than the EDP, but somehow so perfectly harmonized that it becomes just as complex. The notes work so well on their own in these extraits - allowing every aspect of them to shine and be enhanced by each other, that the complexity is something that comes only from smelling, and understanding them.

I have thoroughly enjoyed exploring the Vero Profumo fragrances and can’t wait to get my nose into the new release :D

Rubj Parfum Extrait 7.5ml Vero Profumo – $195 luckyscent.com
Rubj EDP 50ml Vero Profumo – $195 luckyscent.com

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Vero Profumo – Kiki EDP, Kiki Parfum

Hello everyone. Sorry for the long break in posting yet again, my regularity will return over the next week and I have lots planned to write about.
I decided to return back to my Vero Profumo sample pack  (thanks again to Campomarzio70) as I feel that if I don’t review them now, I will use up all my samples and have nothing as immediate reference to review them!

After my hugely successful encounter with Onda, in both EDP and Parfum form, I decided it was time to write about Kiki. I have lived with Kiki and Rubj a little longer than I did with Onda – I was too keen to try it there and then! These are still semi-initial reviews, and I’m just gonna get straight on with them :)

Kiki Eau De Parfum opens at once sparkling, fresh, soapy, clean with a tart aldehydic citrus, Vero’s passion fruit signature much more up front and appealing.  The acidic fruit salad is gorgeously inviting, not in the least bit a “tired citrus opening”, it has the same captivating citrus fruit kick as Tauer’s Orange Star which I am head over heels for.

The citrus allows a little hole to peak through, where the leading lavender comes into play. It starts out with its almost medicated/camphorous type of scent pushing forward, but quickly cools down into a calming breeze. Similarly to Lutens’ Gris Clair, the lavender almost takes on its own density, bringing out this unknown creaminess to the flower, which here is supported by some caramel. The smooth sweetness never becomes sticky and immature, but doesn’t become obnoxious with a burnt, de-sweetened aspect: instead it works with the lavender and citrus to turn down the pungency and up the solid density of the natural scents.

A musky/patchouli base which only becomes apparent a fair while later, gives stability, without pushing aside the citrus and lavender. Instead, the lavender and citrus morph into an almost soapy, yet again, disinfectant like scent, similar to Onda but without the dirtiness underneath. I don’t mean the term “disinfectant” in a bad way, although really it should, instead it smells familiar and somehow comfortable – undoubtably clean and slightly industrial. This trait seems to be a thread throughout the Vero EDP’s and my only guess is that it comes from the passion fruit.

Kiki is bright, delicious but completely inedible, and really playful. It is extremely mature despite the mention of sparkling citrus and caramel – Vero’s magic touch makes this almost industrial, almost avante garde, yet extremely classy. Great fun :)

Kiki Parfum opens with the same citrus burst although I detect a lovely green blast of lime in there. Without the sparkling, soapy aldehydic opening of the EDP, the citrus falls instantly to the depth of the notes, and the lavender quickly merges to the foreground. Yet again, here the brighter, sharp herbal aspects of the lavender are gone, and the creamy, almost moist density comes forth. Similarly again to Gris Clair only here even more so, the almost ashy quality of lavender scatters in the foreground with a much less playful approach.

Unlike Gris Clair with its vanillic, burnt wood base, here there is the caramel from the EDP – thick, syrupy and a little more prominent. It provides a lovely rich sweetness to it again, without being candy coloured and immature – instead a fresh almost fudgey quality provides a thick richness to the lavender, without any forced lactonic creamy notes.

The Kiki Parfum has a tropical vibe, but more in the feel of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Batucada, than Les Nez’s Manoumalia. What I mean is, it has this tropical feel of a crushed lime and sugar accord, and maybe it does, but unlike the almost sad attempt of Batucada, here the lavender, rich caramel and musk, turn this into something much more complete and enjoyable. Kiki Parfum is Gris Clair on holiday with a Caipirinha.

Comparing this now to the EDP, similarly to Onda’s, it is much brighter, with that industrial passionfruit forceful up top, whereas the Parfum retains it’s depth and has much greater substance and identity, yet both remain together through the similar threads presented differently.

All in all, another absolutely wonderful fragrance duo. I love this recognizable Vero signature which I imagine will definitely not be to everyone’s taste. The EDP’s are always utterly captivating and so far – “fresh” in the best possible use of the word, whilst the extraits are a much more obvious portrayal of the named fragrance’s identity, hand in hand they go absolutely perfectly together and neither one is better than the other.

Yet again I feel late to the party, but Vero Profumo is an extremely exciting brand, and right up my alley. Classic and charming, but playful with an unintentional sense of humour. I love these :)

Vero Profumo Kiki EDP 50ml – $165 Luckyscent
Vero Profumo Kiki Parfum 7.5ml – $185 Luckyscent

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Vero Profumo – Onda EDP, Onda Parfum

Let me start by saying, the people at Campomarzio70 have the best customer service I have ever experienced. My recent discussions with Serena Bonfatti have been easy, complimentary, and thoughtful. Not only did they previously gift me with the huge, visually impressive O’Driu sample pack, now they have sent me a boatload of Vero Profumo samples in all forms, and some scents I have never heard of! Wonderful stuff.
And thanks of course to Vero Kern, who sent me in the direction of Campomarzio70, I’m extremely excited by the opportunity to try your fragrances! :D
So, thank you for being so supportive to small time bloggers like myself, and helping me to explore this exciting, niche artwork more so :)

So, with that aside, here I will begin with Onda. I have wanted to try this fragrance for ages! I have heard nothing but exceptional things about it and have been recommended it numerous times.

However, I am not getting my hopes up too much. This apparently is very vetiver prominent, not a favourite note of mine, so I am not getting too excited. But here we go, initial impression are probably not the best way to do this, but it’s my favourite way to review and explore, and I enjoy reading them back and updating. So, before I ramble on and on…

Onda EDP opens absolutely wonderful, with a pronounced vetiver note upfront - I love the vetiver already, it is that dank, dirty salty vetiver which is the only type I seem to really enjoy. There’s a real spice overlaying this, a harsh twang of sharp ginger, and some pungent citrus and bergamot.

From a distance, the spice is more toned down, and gleaming in a bright surrounding aura, is a wonderful honey – a dirty, sweet density.
Diving back into my hand for a close up the whole composition is toning down and re-arranging itself more comfortable. The citrus has mellowed and smells more candied lemon, with that ginger still pronounced.

There’s some bizarre fruit accords in this, and an unusual one listed is passion fruit… I love passion fruit but it’s not really what I’m smelling. To me it’s more the feel of an over-ripe banana, in the similar way that Christopher Brosius used this over-ripe quality in In The Summer Kitchen. An almost dustbin like vegetal effect that is bizarrely compelling.

The honey becomes undoubtably urinous, and considering I can douse myself in Miel De Bois with ease, yet can detect the sulphorous notes in this, should let you know how potent it comes off. However, it is blended with the spice, citrus, and over-ripe fruit notes so well, it becomes merely another appealing, complicated piece to this Onda puzzle.
Whilst hovering on the side of extremely dirty, it also borders on overtly clean, with the citrus and spice providing an almost cleaning fluid-like soapiness, industrial and synthetic, whilst smelling completely familiar. That is exactly what Onda becomes 15 minutes on – familiar. Similar to how Traversee Du Bosphore reminds me of toilets (yet remains completely appetizing), Onda is doing it more literally for me, and I can’t help but feel comletely captivated by it…

First impressions? I love this. At first, and for the first ten minutes, I thought “Hmmm…. interesting I guess”, but then attempting to work this thing out, it gets complicated. I feel like I’ve solved it now, 20 minutes later, and I love the outcome. Already I can see this becoming a full bottle purchase, it’s completely unique - a blend of animalic honey, candied ginger and citrus, salty vetiver (which becomes nothing more than a wonderful base rather than a lead) and softened fruit. Outstanding :D

Onda Parfum opens with much greater density than the EDP, with an almost O’Driu herbal opening, only tamer, smoother, and more refined.
A dark and bitter herbal opening tumbles into a bitter, honeyed leather. And how does it smell? It is absolutely stunning.

At first yet again, I wasn’t sure. Once I realised that the herbal opening, wasn’t actually a herbal opening, and was instead a leather: everything changed. It reminds me right now of Vierges et Toreros, with that smoky birch tar and mentholated tuberose, only this is much deeper and richer (and without the white florals of course). There is definitely that smoky, head-spinning leather, with an unusual mentholated accord that I’m guessing is the listed “mace”? I’m not sure what mace is supposed to smell like so this is a guess…

Please excuse my amateur guesses, I’m taking huge breaks in between these sentences with my nose glued to my hand. Sniffing this compared to the Onda Eau De Parfum on the other hand, I’m amazed by the difference. I thought the EDP was dark and complicated, then going back to this and I’m plunged into a black hole!

I really don’t know what I can say about this, it’s just beautiful. A super smoky leather, honeyed, slightly herbal, some dark shrivelled citrus peel buried underneath dank, salty vetiver. As it begins to dry down, a waft of powder creeps in and turns Onda  a whole lot more fragrant, with an almost vegetal floral – maybe an iris, very delicately dusted on top. Onda Parfum has the feel of a stale, dirty scent that somehow remains bright and transcending – utterly uplifting and very sexy.

Before I continue my stream of adjectives and amateurish descriptives, I will just say that, I can’t try – and don’t want to – break Onda Parfum down any further. It is what it is and it must be sniffed. To me it actually appears as more straightforward than the EDP, the few bold accords stand tall and proud – but so perfectly blended, the create something quite extraordinary. This doesn’t appear to come initially, and it may take some longer to appreciate. I can imagine becoming more and more attached to this scent, but the instant connection has left me head over heels.

A wonderful start to an exciting journey of discovery with the Vero Profumo brand. I can’t wait to try the rest of the line!

Onda Eau De Parfum Vero Profumo 50ml - $165 Luckyscent
Onda Parfum Vero Profumo 7.5ml – $185 Luckyscent

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