Enjoy the video, and as always, the stupidly unflattering screenshot it decides to use as a title frame – thanks YouTube! x
Enjoy the video, and as always, the stupidly unflattering screenshot it decides to use as a title frame – thanks YouTube! x
Mmmmmm. Vetiver Dance starts with grapefruit, black pepper, linden blossom and a vanillic clary sage. It smells green and honeyed, with a stewed tea-like aroma underneath reminding me of champaca. The composition smells a touch like Unter Den Linden by April Aromatics, with a little more spice and earthiness. It smells like an old-school masculine cologne with a touch of modern summer floral above it. The sweetness is counterbalanced with a hint of smoke and salty earth.
There’s a gorgeous lily of the valley, a toned down version of the muguet in Carillon Pour Un Ange, paired with rose and jasmine (and still the linden/champaca feel) – but it’s not overtly floral… it’s green and summery with a slightly lactonic edge – also “dusty”, like pollen.
The pepper settles quickly and the vetiver underneath smells salty, relatively clean, and very green – a little smoky and restrained.
The herbaceous clary sage morphs into rosemary now, with bay leaf and fennel adding a culinary quality to Vetiver Dance.
The vanillic sweetness of tonka, joins with a traditional Tauer-ade base, although the amber lighter handled, lacking incense, and instead pushes full force with the ambergris enhancing the salty vetiver. It’s musky, slightly marine, dry with a great translucent woody backdrop. Cedar dries out the woods whilst sandalwood enhances the more milky aspect of the florals and manages any sweetness. The vetiver, whilst it doesn’t dominate in a usual way, still smells pretty raw and rugged (how I like it!).
Vetiver Dance is an awesome vetiver fragrance, heavily floral yet masculine – something I hadn’t yet found until this scent. It has a great complexity to it and yet it smells controlled and classical - a perfect green, summer fragrance.
Vetiver Dance 50ml EDT Tauer - £87.50 Les Senteurs
Noontide Petals is the new release from Tauer Perfumes. I actually tried this back in December 2012 when visiting Andy Tauer’s, but I was off my tits on cherry schnapps so had practically no recollection of it. Very keen to get my nose on it again… here’s my sample! YAY.
First spray… Miriam is that you? The same blinding aldehyde bomb up top opens Noontide Petals, that tinge of bergamot (maybe a bit of lemon in here?), a gigantic Chanel-like soapiness with the heart thoroughly hidden below the thick, white layer. The citrus may be a little heavier, but when I sampled Noontide Petals again, I literally struggled to differentiate them – totally confused as to where to start reviewing this one. So I decided to spray Miriam on my other hand to compare…
Holy shit you guys are completely different what the hell?! No joke… I have loved Miriam since I first laid my nose on it, and wear it extremely regularly. I feel like I know that perfume back to front, but this little comparison has opened my eyes to new nuances of Miriam… which I will discuss later
BACK TO NOONTIDE… This soapy, lemon-y, aldehyde bomb gets gradually more floral – a rose being the lead, followed by a honeyed ylang ylang, bringing to mind the honeyed, white floral aldehyde bomb of Chanel No.22 (mmmm!). Obviously I friggin’ love it! I get little hints of orchid? – which at times seems to dominate the florals. The rose isn’t at all a big, red, exotic-thing like in Incense Rose or Un Rose Chypree… it’s a fresh, yellow smelling blossom that you need sunglasses to see (aldehydes still sticking like glitter over this!). Gorgeous, summery and classy, with an underlying Tauer-touch ready to come out later.
The leading floral bouquet (like Miriam), smells alien, blended to an almost unidentifiable, lactonic consistency that smells futurisitc (the genious being how perfect it is with a swarm of “old-fashioned” soapy aldehydes on top of it). The citrus manages to penetrate it, this lemon lasting much longer than expected… mixed with the lactonic notes of the white florals (a slightly oily tuberose accord? a-la Loretta?), it smells almost like a magnolia. Ok so I’m listing florals galore… I go back to my point about the alien aroma of it… these modern, Tauer aldehydic-florals are truly unlike any other – not at all as straightforward as what you’ve smelt before.
I get just a touch of the jasmine, squeaky-clean and traditional – bringing to mind the honeyed-aldehydic-jasmine of First by Van Cleef and Arpels… but still, this “orchid” vibe is what I can’t get out my head – tainted with the rose. I think Tauer has invented some hybrid floral…
The drydown gets sweeter as a slightly powdery vanilla leads into a subtle smoke of frankincense, and woods (very dry sandalwood and what smells like a similar rosewood note to Pentachord White). The frankincense turns just a touch metallic and keeps the glistening quality from the opening through to the very end of Noontide Petals. I also get a subtle medicinal note, it smells like a combination of geranium (although it’s a bit late for that?) and a kind of hyper-clean laundry musk, tainted with something resinous… yeh I really can’t get my head around dissecting this
So, how does it differ from Miriam? Well… spraying these side by side, I suddenly got a huge, almond-biscotti vibe from Miriam… can’t say I’ve ever smelt that in here before… Miriam suddenly has become even more alien to me: the citrus more muted than I thought, the greenery more herbal but spoiled (in a good way!) by this abstract gourmand accord. I get heliotrope and lilac… two things I have never smelt in Miriam before… and a much more resinous, heavy and dense drydown finishes Miriam – slathered with powder and a greater violet/iris dominating floral accord. Suddenly Miriam smells like I’ve never smelt it before, yet when I tried Noontide (before comparing), I would’ve sworn they were the same thing. I now love my Miriam even more <3 Tauer you cheeky minx! Getting me all confused.
SO: Noontide? Awesome. I gotta say, Miriam is the love of my life, but this is almost like Miriam in Spring (perfect timing for the release) – a much lighter (not a bad thing), easier to wear (not a bad thing) – aldehyde-heavy floral that smells fresh, modern, yet timeless. I’m thrilled Andy has put a fragrance like this in his line up (it must suck a little bit making something as glorious as Miriam and having it under a name not your own!). But yes… get your nose on this one <3 Another absolute beauty.
NOONTIDE Petals 50ml EDT Tauer – http://www.tauerperfumes.com (not yet released)
Rose and raspberries! MMMMMM! A combination I fell head over heels for in Secret Garden (Aftelier). Une Rose Vermeille opens with a tart lemon aldehyde accord that smells like opening a box of cheescake, the plastic wrapping and all. This plastic accord dominates up top for a few, glorious minutes – sweetened with citrus fruits and the underlying raspberry, which from a distance is already filling the air.
Unexpectedly, I smell a slightly camphorous, medicinal accord of lavender and a hint of clove, maybe even a touch of bay. Once you pick these up, it’s easy to see how Une Rose Veremille fits in with the other two fragrances in the Homages trio – they all possess a bitter green edge referencing perfumes of the past. I always considered URV the more playful and modern of the bunch, but its herbal undercurrent and classic aldehyde opening douse it in a maturity that smells like the younger (although technically older) sister to the future Miriam (Tableau De Parfums).
The sweetness of Une Rose Vermeille resembles that of a sleek, shiny jam. It scents a cloud around you of absolute delicious, playful fruitiness – but fascinating up close when this almost seems to disappear with a slightly metallic, oily rose/jasmine/carnation? combo and a hint of a resinous base smothers the skin. The rose, whilst I say is oily and metallic – is undoubtably modern and fresh, with a bite of pepper and a texture that is both young and soft, but has sharp edges.
Some violet comes in, adding a hint of fragrant powder until it practically takes the lead with the rose. The violet never smells dated or old fashioned (it never does to me anyway!) due to the crisp, culinary herbal accord still going strong close to the skin.
At times, the sandalwood takes on a slightly gourmand edge, like a Lutens’ use where it subtly resembles bakery – although I’m thinking more almond biscotti than buttered croissants. But this is extremely quiet underneath a large dose of Tauer ambergris and vanilla – a beautiful combo that keeps the fun in Une Rose Vermeille and its subtly complicated construction upfront and long-lasting. It’s during this drydown (despite the vanilla), that Une Rose Vermeille matures even more, losing its jammy sweetness but staining the woods underneath with a sour red laquer. A hint of now almost bitter powder clings to the skin and Une Rose Vermeille ages before your eyes/nose. I can never tell which stage of the fragrance is more beautiful, but up until it vanishes, I am left choked at how perfect it is.
Une Rose Vermeille 30ml EDP Tauer – 95.60 Euros www.tauerperfumes.com
Ok, I’m gonna crack straight on with this.
First of all: Happy New Year
Now that’s out the way – here’s what I loved and discovered in 2012.
My Favourite 3 Fragrances in 2012:
Haute Claire (far too closely followed by Secret Garden) by Aftelier Perfumes. Both of these fragrances are a tie for me, completely different, but absolutely beautiful. The richest, most naturally grand florals I have smelt – truly beautiful, wearable and classic – timeless fragrances that will be with me for a long time. Outstanding!
Rubj EDP by Vero Profumo is simply awesome. A sexy, volumptuous floral with an unexpected, almost tropical/sour “fresh” slice of green passionfruit smothering it. Mouthwatering, huge, and an absolute necessity. Exceptional.
Miriam by Tableau De Parfums is a modern classic. It combines so many elements of fragrances I love into something seamless – the aldehydic resins of La Myrrhe, the aldehydic white floral/incense combo of No.22, various fragmented particles of classic Tauer’s such as the bay of Un Rose Chypree, the violet/iris of Pentachord White… I can go on… but it is its own being – Miriam is gorgeous.
Most Unexpected Beauty:
M/Mink by Byredo completely took me by surprise. After months of thinking I hated it (after trying it only twice on paper) – I found it’s evolution on the skin absolutely captivating. Whilst I still struggle to wear it, when I finally accept that it’s a beeswax/incense/patchouli and not the fishy atrocity that my mind conjurs up – I love it.
Mangetic Scent is an awesome line. Indigo was one of my sampling highlights of the year and I can’t wait to get my hands on a full bottle. The packaging is beautiful, the fragrances are truly brilliant and I can’t wait to see what this guy comes out with next
Best Marketing and Packaging:
In all honesty, O’Driu is pretty pompous and poncy (a little cringeworthy at times)… but judging the brand through it’s products, marketing and advertising – it owns. Not only have they kicked off massively solely from threads on Basenotes, the gorgeous sample packages were handed out extremely generously, and the packaging is fantastic. I love the boxes stuffed with feathers and hessian, the advertising images are beautiful, the bottles are solid (although a bit wierd, when you buy 50ml, you get 50ml in a 100ml bottle…), and I like the atomizers (but wouldn’t use it – evapouration and all that shit). All in all, kudos to you O’Driu.
Oh and just in the category of advertising, Lady Gaga’s Fame commercial was brilliant (there, I said it)… as we all know, the fragrance was piss poor.
Sad To See Go:
Eau D’Epices got discontinued this year – which gave me a little heartache… but it’ll be back next year I believe so no big deal I guess it’s removal from the market re-trigged my admiration for this challenging composition. I will get it when it returns!
A list of other fragrances I loved in 2012:
Iris Silver Mist
Putain Des Palaces
CDG EDP 2011
Bolt Of Lightning/Fermes Tes Yeux/Jarling
Ok so you might be wondering where all the hate is here? In all honesty – there’s too many to write about and compile into neat categories, so I’m just gonna real some off and get the dirty stuff over with…
Crap of the year:
Seville A L’Aube (loved smelling the ingredients that went in it… didn’t like ‘em all together…)
Serge Noire/L’Eau/L’Eau Froide/Nuit De Cellophane (obvious reasons)
BEX (the write ups that started the trouble)
Sentifique (words can’t describe these fragrances… so I won’t try)
Jean-Claude Ellena’s Dreary Diary (and most of his work)
Seven Veils (I still re-live the nightmare of when it hit my skin)
Jovoy (the line, not the shop)
Blah blah blah – I have a terrible memory and the list could go on forever, trust me. That’ll do for now
So yes – every bloggers doing these in far more detail so there’s my little two cents. Thanks for the support everyone <3<3<3
Oh, and some perfect music… just because
Pentachord Verdant opens with a sweet snap of greenery – sweet like caramelized brown sugar that quickly brings forth a bitter, earthy vetiver. Relatively transparent almost instantly, Verdant glistens as though drenched in water – but not at all “thin”.
As the vetiver becomes more prominent and the “brown sugar” retreats, the sweetness is kept in the foreground by a candied mint note that gives the otherwise warm, rooty vetiver a cool feel – although I’d describe it as “refreshing” I don’t want that to be off-putting (as it would to me when I read that), but I can’t help it, it is a fresh, rejuvenating splash of fragrant juice.
A leafiness I guess comes from the listed “tobacco” – although it is unlike any other tobacco scent I have tried. The sweet, slightly smoky aroma that intermingles with the vetiver seems to give it an almost mineralic support – an earthiness that is given lift by its clever lack of weight.
A resinous base provides most of its depth, whether it is a hint of sweet amber (sorry for the overuse of the word sweet) or a hint of cool, smoky incense – it supports the mint, vetiver and crushed leaf notes very delicately, never overwhelming the heart of Verdant.
There is little development in Pentachord Verdant, it’s relatively linear – similarly to Pentachord White, but lasts nicely on the skin whilst remaining quite close. It is a very unusual fresh/green scent, and a great take on a mint/vetiver fragrance in a similar distortion to Dirty by Lush – where Dirty adds a stale/herbal/mineralic accord that’s incredibly potent, Verdant sweetens it with a bundle of earthy notes so that the mint adjusts the temperature rather than being the overriding smell - which often happens with mint.
Eventually when the mint evaporates, the vetiver becomes even more prominent, bringing with it a subtle tomato leaf aroma, much more subdued and easy to wear than say – Memory Of Kindness by CB I Hate Perfume. What remains until the end is this green leaf notes, the beautifully clear vetiver, a sweet resinous, subtely smoky base with a dry hit of cedar wood. Beautiful transparent perfumery – Ellena should learn a lesson from Tauer, this is how it’s done well.
Tauer Pentachord Verdant 50ml – 103.80 Euros tauerperfumes.com
Incense Extreme opens with loud, peppery frankincense, that somehow feels beautifully translucent. Whether it is just the frankincense alone, or a crack of black pepper – the initial spice is very prominent, paired with a wonderful green herbal note of coriander (which is indiscernible close up, but heavenly clear from a distance).
The scent of the air around you (and the sillage coming from your skin) after spraying Incense Extreme is wonderful. It is sweet and herbal, with the coriander leading above the sheer incense – it smells almost floral, with a potent hit of anise. Whether it is a true anise note, or maybe fennel?, there is a clear, green, slightly vegetal aroma which is really nice.
The frankincense is the leading player, soon to be joined by a raw, dry cedar wood. The whole composition whilst being loud and notably ”Tauer”, feels light and spacious on the skin, allowing each note to shine individually. This isn’t something that I’m used to as his creations tend to have a far greater density – but this more ethereal construction whilst retaining high volume is very impressive – and really lovely to wear.
A warm amber gets stronger and stronger as time goes on, up to a point where it joins hands with the incense and helps melt the fragrance into your skin. The fennel-type note that I got at the start is pulled throughout the entire fragrance for me, and the cedar wood’s sharp edges are completely smoothed out. With all these intense notes it sounds like Incense Extreme is a fragrance of jagged edges and intensity (similar to the opening of L’Air Du Desert Marocain with its infamous tar note), but it’s not at all, it’s extremely well-rounded and feels about as smooth as a frankincense (I’ll say it -) soliflore can be.
The drydown is relatively linear, getting lighter as time goes on but lives on the skin for hours as you’d expect. It’s a lovely fragrance that I don’t personally feel like I need to own (as I love this Tauer incense/amber blended with his gorgeous rose (Incense Rose) or that addictive campfire smoke (Lonestar Memories)) – but it is certainly a great introduction to the Tauer line – probably more so than L’Air Du Desert Marocain which everyone seems to discover first. I also prefer the density of the others in the Tauer line, having said that (and I had to make this cliche comparison), I’d prefer to wear this any day over the translucent incense that is Avignon. Whilst Incense Extreme and Avignon tell completely different stories and are pretty different presentations of incense, I find that IE holds it’s personality throughout it’s drydown, which is more than I can say for the short life of Avignon.
Anyway – all in all, a lovely fragrance, and something I’d recommend highly as a first step into the Tauer line.
Incense Extreme 50ml EDP Tauer - £92 Les Senteurs