Category Archives: Profumi Del Forte

Versilia Vintage – Ambra Mediterranea – Profumi Del Forte

Versilia Vintage – Ambra Mediterranea or VVAM as I will call it from now on, opens with a beautiful rich, sweet, slightly powdery amber – similar to my beloved L’Eau D’Ambre Extreme by L’Artisan Parfumeur, only here there are some exquisite notes piled on top: some bright, juicy orange and a delicate air of green herbs that instantly tumble into a waft of deep smoke, rising from the base.

Within literally a minute, what started as extremely pretty and bright, becomes something with a dark heart – a burnt, smoky trail, a deep contrast to the glowing amber. A shard of cedar hits you straight between the eyes, and paired with the black smoke, creates a harsh masculine edge to this otherwise classical amber. The best way I can describe this is: L’Eau D’Ambre Extreme, meets a dash of Lonestar Memories, with an added dose of harsh Lutens’ cedar.

A de-sweetened vanilla adds a slight, but much-needed creaminess to the composition, but doesn’t completely smooth out the many jagged edges. I think there’s a waft of frankincense in there too, a sharp tangy dose of it that creates a slightly dusty atmosphere and an almost ghostly incense. Ghostly because it is only just detectable – its presence is there but the surrounding notes completely overwhelm it.
Some patchouli begins to creep in at the end, working wonderfully with the amber to create a green, musty partner.

The thing is – I don’t like it at all. It seems just like I said – two different fragrances combined. But, here it doesn’t seem to work as well as Lush’s accident – Breath Of God, but it instead never blends (for me at least) into a seamless amber fragrance, and I find the composition extremely uncomfortable. The bitterness of the smoke and woods is so intense and sharp, that it cuts straight through the lovely amber and creates this sickening intensity of both extreme sweetness and bitter smoke. It almost seems to curdle into a lumpy bowl of unappetizing accords and I want nothing more than to wash it off. It started with so much promise…

As boring as it sounds (and if you have any idea of my tastes you’ll know generally I’m not boring), I think I prefer my amber with simplicity. It is such a wonderful accord (labdanum, vanilla, benzoin) that is complicated and beautiful in its own right. Now don’t get me wrong, I love complimentary pairing notes, but the amber accord is so dominating, that I think if making a soliflore, it really does work best when it is the leading player. An example of an oustanding amber with numerous complimentary partner accords is Tauer’s classic L’Air Du Desert Marocain. Everything there works in exquisite harmony to create something outstandingly beautiful. Here in VVAM, I find the creation ugly as sin.

Worth trying though for amber lovers, do try and not be put off by my negativity, I can thoroughly appreciate the idea and can see how people would enjoy this. I have heard many claim it to be “The Best Amber” and such, but for me, it is a clumsy, unnecessary combination of accords that doesn’t work as intended.

Profumi Del Forte Versilia Vintage Ambra Mediterranea 100ml EDP – $240 luckyscent

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Tirrenico – Profumi Del Forte

So I’m back! Hopefully full of interesting reads ahead for you guys.
I’ve got lots to get reviewing, lots of great finds and some disappointments.
I’ve been ordering samples like crazy and getting some lovely freebies along the way. But before I go into all that, let’s start with quite an unusual choice…

I picked Tirrenico as I desperately want to find a summer scent I’ll love. I’ve really got into this beachy/aquatic/salty vibe recently, but I haven’t actually found one I love. Dans Tes Bras is probably the closest I’ve found so far, Dirty is probably just above that (as much as I hate to mentioned my love for this cheapie), and At The Beach 1966 just below.
I have been recommended this fragrance and have also really wanted to explore the Profumi Del Forte, so with all that in mind I thought this would be a good place to start.

Tirrenico opens with a fragrant Skarb-like vibe. It has that dense aquatic-melon note with a salty edge to it. I use the word dense becuase similar to Humiecki & Graef’s Skarb, Tirrenico manages to have a real aquatic feel to it, without it being transparent or particularly ozonic. It’s very unusual… if you notice it.

A green herbaceous note of fennel comes through pretty strong once the fragrance begins to align itself. I also get a subtle bay leaf note, but the wet, green anise dominates. Underneath, is the salty, aquatic sea air, full and accurate. I get an almost bilge-y driftwood substance that has a metallic depth to it, not all to dissimilar from the metallic reference Secretions Magnifique. It is quite sharp, a little bit uncomfortable, and just further pushes the reality of this salty sea-shore aura - almost too real with the metallic dirtiness in the mix.

For me, this is like a mash-up of Secretions Magnifique, Skarb, and the saltiness of Dans Tes Bras, with an added fennel note. It sounds complicated but it reamins simplistic and relatively easy to pull apart – not that this is my sole intention of course. Thankfully fifteen minutes in a watery jasmine note comes in, not my favourite note at all, but the delicate floral just reminds you that this IS a perfume to be worn on your skin, something that Christopher Brosius’ tends to avoid (and I guess that’s why I love his work!).

I don’t really like Tirrenico… well, that’s unfair, I enjoy the opening and I love what it achieves – the saltiness and fresh sea air. The fennel note actually spoils this for me, and I wish the dominating note was something different - I’m not the perfumer so I won’t attempt to give a suggestion! But after I’ve sorted the fragrance out in my head, understood it a little more, and let it settle, I’m tired of it. It’s subtle persistence on the skin means that it isn’t too obtrusive after an hour, but I don’t enjoy the slightly dirty, salty anis stain that remains on my skin.

All in all, I would recommend Tirrenico, it’s definitely worth a try if it sounds like something you’d enjoy - it is a fantastic quality marine fragrance that is unique and recognizable.

Profumi Del Forte Tirrenico 50ml EDP – $130 Luckyscent

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