Enjoy the video, and as always, the stupidly unflattering screenshot it decides to use as a title frame – thanks YouTube! x
Enjoy the video, and as always, the stupidly unflattering screenshot it decides to use as a title frame – thanks YouTube! x
I’ve found myself in the posession of a few great jasmine soliflore samples, so I decided to compile them into a single review.
Untitled #1 opens with an indolic, rich, jasmine sambac and (and a touch of grandiflorum), it smells both honeyed and intense on one side, and sweet/floral/aquatic on the other (hedione?). There seems to be a touch of fleshy lily, and a little rose – but the jasmine dominates in full force. I say in full force, but it’s not hard-going – infact, it’s totally different to what I expected from the previous three. Untitled #1 is more classical, well-mannered, intelligently balanced and completely harmonious. There are no sharp edges or avant-garde supporting notes… it’s just a really good jasmine.
As it settles the indole turns a little soiled, giving off a subtle animalic vibe (civet?) sweetened by a gorgeous vanilla. It almost feels like a tropical jasmine, with a frangipani alongside it. It’s a little “meaty”, feminine and full-bodied - with a touch of galbanum-like greenery keeping it fresh and natural smelling. The vanilla drydown is really beautiful, full of soft woody accords and just a subtle touch of smoke.
The honey turns a touch too sharp on my skin, not urinous, but sharp in the same way that Viktoria Minya’s Hedonist turned on my skin… it’s much more acceptable here though, due to a much greater floral heart (without the equally sharp peachy fruit of Hedonist). This jasmine is fruity though, a softer peach accord that smells more like peach-tea.
The lily gets louder as it dries down, turning Untitled #1 into a pollen heavy, tropical jasmine atop smooth, classical vanilla (and the tiniest smidgen of cocoa). Seamless and timeless. Lovely work.
Calypso opens with a spicy, raw jasmine that smells almost fungal. It similarly has a tropical floral accord underneath of frangipani and tuberose, but whilst it’s earthy and should be overly pungent, it remains surprisingly muted and close to the skin. The jasmine is spiced with a bitter green cardamom and again, is sweetened with honey. It’s a gorgeous scent, if it only threw itself off my skin a little more – I have to get really “in there” to smell it.
The tuberose/tropical floral accord is “fluffy” – as I often find some varieties of natural tuberose etc. to smell. It’s butter soft, enhanced with a fungal, earthy quality rather than an intense narcotic scent that we’re more familiar with in most releases. However, I love the rawness to it all, and the mushroom-like aspect of the jasmine (similarly – although treated different – to Tawaf by La Via Del Profumo’s rough jasmine opening). The honeyed floral is enhanced by ylang ylang, and Calypso begins to slightly resembled the floral accord in Aftelier’s Haute Claire – only calmer without the “urinous” quality, and it’s undoubtably more feminine. Still – I really like this, I just wish it threw off my skin more.
The late drydown has a sticky, dark vanilla, identical to that used in Ajne’s Vanille (which I own and really love).
Then there is A La Nuit, blasting off the skin in a narcotic, bubblegum overload of a jasmine. Almost medicinal up top with an astringency not too dissimilar from Tubereuse Criminelle, although jasmine based.
The top is tart and fruit, with green apple and a hefty dose of what smells like phenyl-ethyl-acetate, a honeyed pear aroma. The apple, pear and honey is sharp and translucent, giving way to the obnoxious bubblegum jasmine underneath.
Along with the jasmine there is the merest hint of carnation, spicing the fruits up top just a touch. A honey is treated differently again, even sharper and fruitier than the others (the aromachemical mentioned above I suppose). The indole is scrubbed up to a point where it is present, but squeaky-clean – making the jasmine smell almost hyper-fresh whilst being extremely potent (and thankfully not soapy).
There’s a hint of fluorescent greenery that pops in and out – making A La Nuit the most photorealistic fragrance of these three – as in, smelling like the plant itself. Whether something so literal is to your taste or not is up to you, but it’s lovely to wear, if not a little too straightforward for me. It has a linear development, settling into a slightly woody, vanilla that’s so light, the jasmine atop feels heavier and finishes the fragrance. Still, a great summer jasmine
So there you have it!
Ok ok! So I said I wouldn’t post videos on here again. WELL, I’ve decided against it. I work hard on these videos, and I’ll post them because of that Ignore them if you’re not liking them. Amazingly, my channel is going very well on YouTube despite having only 10 videos so far, I’m getting a bit of support! And it’s a little more content on here…
Finally getting to grips with video making now, all audio, cut scenes and blah blah, is now perfect.
Anyway. Here are the last two:
Tindrer opens immediately as a violet, but cut with a green, vegetal number of accords that remind me of green peppers, wet soil, cypress, clove, a touch of mint, and a handful of culinary herbs that have a spicy/heat to them. Damp and dewy, the violet is both candied and light, whilst also resembling the actual flower and the earth with it – soiled, heady with a subtle, bitter edge. Brilliant!
The texture of the opening to heart is fantastic: dense, yet almost translucent, filled by a “fatty”, aquatic layer that only slightly resembles a touch of melon-like calone, but more a vegetal water, maybe slightly “figgy” – stemone? It does bring to mind a similar concept and execution to Un Matin D’Orage by Annick Goutal, although Tindrer is denser and more intense, pushing forward harder with the green notes, allowing anything soiled, fungal or vegetal to come to the surface if it wants to. It sounds much less refined than the Goutal, but it’s not, it’s more… raw?
The violet continues to lead, with a pretty hefty dose of heliotrope, a hint of carnation and maybe just a smidge of jasmine (a mere indolic smidge). The greenery from the opening still perfectly balanced, if not a touch jarring at times, pairs with the florals harmoniously – some marine-heavy ambergris underneath supporting everything. I say “marine-heavy” because a driftwood-like bilgey note (only not at all as rotted as it sounds) seems to sit in the base, maybe adding that mirage of aquatic translucency to the top… I’m not sure But it’s definitely very salty, bringing to mind the salty/musk/violet combo of Dans Tes Bras (which I love).
A cedar wood in the base (which reminds me of the vegetal, almost banana-skin pungency of the cedar in Smell Bent’s Totem Eclipse), adds a little more substance, and whilst this all sounds extremely heavy and overwhelming – the translucency and thick aquatic quality still persists… it’s nowhere near as heavy as it sounds… kinda…
Tindrer is a complicated one: a kind of mash-up of fragrances I seem to have smelt before but compiled into something which doesn’t smell like anything else. I really, really like this take on a green violet – and it just further pushes forward my point of – go sample Spyros’ work! Magnetic Scent is a small, solid collection of brilliantly unique fragrances <3
Tindrer 50ml EDP Magnetic Scent – 110 Euros http://www.magnetic-scent.com
It’s about time I continued writing about this line. I am still swooning over Indigo – it’ll probably be my first purchase of 2013 (when I can afford another bottle after the end of my 2012 splurge!)…
Arghhghghgh!!! Oh my god it’s amazing!
Untitled #2 has one of the best gourmand openings I’ve ever smelt… maybe THE best. It’s a burst of gingerbread, cinnamon, clove, cocoa and hot milk – all coming out at once. At first, a photo-realistic chai latte with the sprinkling of cinnamon dust on top tickling your nose. The sweetened milk (with a hint of cardamom?) underneath is warm, slightly congealed, cloying in the best possible way.
The cocoa, although paired with the milk, isn’t quite the chocolate milkshake of Musc Maori, but it is instead a little more bitter – like a great quality cocoa powder - think Borneo 1834.
The sweetness and gourmand aspects do calm down as a rose comes in and I’m really thankful to find at least one floral note in here. The cocoa/rose combination reminds me more of Santal Majascule compared to 100% Love (Rose Rebelle)… In fact, Untitled #2 reminds me of Santal Majascule meets Une Crime Exotique, with a smidge of Musc Maori… does that make sense? If you can imagine that then you can picture this perfectly!
Ok so the only downside to this is, as with Une Crime Exotique (and most fragrances that experiment with festive scents, culinary spices paired with gourmand notes), Untitled #2 verges on “Yankee Candle” territory – at times smelling completely delicious, at others like something I want my home to smell like at Christmas. The rose, sandalwood, vanilla – thankfully pull these lovely spices and festive-beverage-references into more “perfume” territory… but only just!
As it begins to drydown and the sweet, dry woods begin to lead, Untitled #2 finally de-sweetens and sits on the skin in a light, dusty – subtly spiced layer. No longer is it the sweet frothy chai latte of the opening but a much more refined and still interesting fragrance to wear.
Captivating from start to finish – a standout gourmand, hugely recommended.
Untitled #2 50ml Magnetic Scent – 110 Euros http://www.magnetic-scent.com
Ok, I’m gonna crack straight on with this.
First of all: Happy New Year
Now that’s out the way – here’s what I loved and discovered in 2012.
My Favourite 3 Fragrances in 2012:
Haute Claire (far too closely followed by Secret Garden) by Aftelier Perfumes. Both of these fragrances are a tie for me, completely different, but absolutely beautiful. The richest, most naturally grand florals I have smelt – truly beautiful, wearable and classic – timeless fragrances that will be with me for a long time. Outstanding!
Rubj EDP by Vero Profumo is simply awesome. A sexy, volumptuous floral with an unexpected, almost tropical/sour “fresh” slice of green passionfruit smothering it. Mouthwatering, huge, and an absolute necessity. Exceptional.
Miriam by Tableau De Parfums is a modern classic. It combines so many elements of fragrances I love into something seamless – the aldehydic resins of La Myrrhe, the aldehydic white floral/incense combo of No.22, various fragmented particles of classic Tauer’s such as the bay of Un Rose Chypree, the violet/iris of Pentachord White… I can go on… but it is its own being – Miriam is gorgeous.
Most Unexpected Beauty:
M/Mink by Byredo completely took me by surprise. After months of thinking I hated it (after trying it only twice on paper) – I found it’s evolution on the skin absolutely captivating. Whilst I still struggle to wear it, when I finally accept that it’s a beeswax/incense/patchouli and not the fishy atrocity that my mind conjurs up – I love it.
Mangetic Scent is an awesome line. Indigo was one of my sampling highlights of the year and I can’t wait to get my hands on a full bottle. The packaging is beautiful, the fragrances are truly brilliant and I can’t wait to see what this guy comes out with next
Best Marketing and Packaging:
In all honesty, O’Driu is pretty pompous and poncy (a little cringeworthy at times)… but judging the brand through it’s products, marketing and advertising – it owns. Not only have they kicked off massively solely from threads on Basenotes, the gorgeous sample packages were handed out extremely generously, and the packaging is fantastic. I love the boxes stuffed with feathers and hessian, the advertising images are beautiful, the bottles are solid (although a bit wierd, when you buy 50ml, you get 50ml in a 100ml bottle…), and I like the atomizers (but wouldn’t use it – evapouration and all that shit). All in all, kudos to you O’Driu.
Oh and just in the category of advertising, Lady Gaga’s Fame commercial was brilliant (there, I said it)… as we all know, the fragrance was piss poor.
Sad To See Go:
Eau D’Epices got discontinued this year – which gave me a little heartache… but it’ll be back next year I believe so no big deal I guess it’s removal from the market re-trigged my admiration for this challenging composition. I will get it when it returns!
A list of other fragrances I loved in 2012:
Iris Silver Mist
Putain Des Palaces
CDG EDP 2011
Bolt Of Lightning/Fermes Tes Yeux/Jarling
Ok so you might be wondering where all the hate is here? In all honesty – there’s too many to write about and compile into neat categories, so I’m just gonna real some off and get the dirty stuff over with…
Crap of the year:
Seville A L’Aube (loved smelling the ingredients that went in it… didn’t like ‘em all together…)
Serge Noire/L’Eau/L’Eau Froide/Nuit De Cellophane (obvious reasons)
BEX (the write ups that started the trouble)
Sentifique (words can’t describe these fragrances… so I won’t try)
Jean-Claude Ellena’s Dreary Diary (and most of his work)
Seven Veils (I still re-live the nightmare of when it hit my skin)
Jovoy (the line, not the shop)
Blah blah blah – I have a terrible memory and the list could go on forever, trust me. That’ll do for now
So yes – every bloggers doing these in far more detail so there’s my little two cents. Thanks for the support everyone <3<3<3
Oh, and some perfect music… just because
Indigo starts with a hit of rose that wouldn’t seem out-of-place paired next to an upcoming oud – but it doesn’t happen… instead a bitter herbal, resinous aroma that I honestly struggle to place comes in. I get a hit of tart green pine, an overtly sour citrus that doesn’t seem too far from yuzu, and a gingery…earthy…vegetal scent that I’m guessing is the angelica? It’s a truly fabulous combination of complicated notes that I’ve rarely sniffed.
What comes next scares me a little – and I initially jotted it down as “costus and castoreum” – that sweaty smell of hair and dirty skin as used in Oud 27. After a quick chat with the perfumer – he told me it is merely the hyacinth note. Now, I have hyacinth’s at home but have never given them a true sniff, but this extracted note – is a hell of a thing. It’s a dirty, soiled, vegetal note - an intense, piercingly sharp floral that is hard to pin down, but desperately uncomfortable. Is it swampy? Is it narcotic? Hell knows, it’s extremely dark and mysterious – it’s like sniffing a clean floral through a pungent fog. I love this smell. The rose from the opening is cleaner, a tea rose I think, and paired with this hyacinth just about rounds it out into something wearable, challenging and beautiful.
The contrast of textures in the heart is awesome. There’s still a sour accord going on, a gummy texture from the mastic, the soiled animalic hyacinth, clean tea rose, the remains of bitter herbs that brings to mind dill and an almost carrot-y angelica. Cedar wood is the first note that begins to break through the heart from the base – bone dry and almost charred, bringing with it a subtle incense smoke and a vegetal musk. A mineralic, flinty aroma darts in and out of focus, adding potent metallic elements throughout Indigo. The great thing about Indigo is that it is not at all sweet, in fact, it’s completely bitter. The bizarre juiciness adds a mouthwatering quality but the unapologetic bitter notes completely contrast to it, slapping you across the face when you try to hunt for something more conventional in there! It’s a brutal rose fragrance – and that is what I’d classify it as, because whilst there is so much more going on – and often leading – the rose ties all these notes together and is the only thread keeping Indigo together. It isn’t a seamless fragrance, but that’s why it is so good!
As it finally begins to drydown, the cedar/incense combo leads, with a hint of heavily resinous amber underneath. There’s still metallic elements, the occasional flash of sour fruit, the tea rose (the only thing remotely perfume-y in Indigo), and a mysterious animalic undercurrent. It smells just as complicated as it is to describe and it’s a relief when the drydown comes so you can finally get your ahead around it. Indigo is great fun to sniff, a challenging fragrance without a doubt, and one of the most creative compositions I’ve smelt in a good while – well done Magnetic Scent – brilliant work!
Indigo 50ml Magnetic Scent – 110 Euros http://www.magnetic-scent.com