Eau D’Italie is a cologne – Duchaufour style. It smells simplistic initially, yet so exceptionally blended it is hard to break down. Some citrus up top of lemon and bergamot feels instantly soft and almost powdery on the skin. A signature Duchaufour incense – in the style of Dzongkha, creeps in and mingles with citrus along with a herbaceous greenery that may be a mere hint of cypress.
Listed is blackcurrant (a note I love), but it seems to come off as a mere fruity hint rather than anything tart and distinctive. It adds a delicate sweet/sour edge to the citrus and that is all. The incense gets a little stronger, and is clean, clear and crisp – a very, very minimalistic smoke.
The citrus is dragged into the heart by a creamy, lemony magnolia – yet again, hidden behind an almost translucent layer that successfully disguises and merges these notes together.
The notes list discusses a “clay accord”, which I completely get after reading it – without that, it is simple a damp, slightly mineralic earthy smell that is difficult to place – but lovely when it is. This clay accord, overlaid with the remains of the citrus which begins to turn a little orange-y and the smoke of incense, blurs together into something really fresh and meditative.
A dry cedar wood and a dash of bitter green oakmoss create a smooth, mossy base, slightly warmed by something amber-y, and a small bundle of clean patchouli. This warm, fuzzy base full of rich earth and greenery, calms down a growing metallic presence from what I assume is the incense. This metallic almost bilgey kind of note retains the cool quality of the opening, whilst never full turning into a full-blown salty driftwood note which it starts to verge on. The balance is perfect, and it is one of the few signature colognes (amongst Annick Goutal’s, Santa Maria Novella’s and the like…) that I am fond of and would happily splash on in the summer. Sure, this is the wrong time to be writing about such a summery fragrance, but it is definitely something that will be on my wish list early next year.
The florals last longer than expected, and the citrus feel never full disappears. The dry cedar and cool incense along with the metallic/mineralic mystery accord of the heart, are truly lovely and I smile each time I raise my hand to my nose. A perfect example of a unisex cologne – with just a little bit of weirdness, and an exquisite texture. A beauty :)
Eau D’Italie 100ml EDT Eau D’Italie – £87 Les Senteurs