Before I start – I believe my sample is of the original Cumming fragrance (which is extremely hard to find now) – Christopher Brosius has re-released this scent in his own water format and oil absolute (which apparently is absolutely no different!) called 2nd Cumming.
Cumming is surprisingly – really lovely! It opens with Brosius’ isntantly recognizable “dirt accord”, followed by – smooth leather, a rich boozy note, tobacco, rubber, a delicate smoke, all piled in at once into a gorgeous, but slightly restrained opening. It is extremely unusual (especially for a celebrity scent), but really lovely on the skin. The leather is worn and rugged, yet smoothed out into an almost suede like texture from the synthetic rubbery notes and the smooth honeyed tobacco. The smoke is literally a whisper, and the boozy notes a sweetened whisky stain rather than astringent and sharp.
The dirt (like most CB scents) retreats into the background relatively quickly, it is always an accord that starts out with pungency and then disappears, but it’s earthiness seems to round out scents and add that distinctive green edge.
Cumming becomes seamless – it is velvet soft on the skin, and a little bit quiet. Considering the huge personality of each accord that CB has used to create this, he has somehow hushed them all into something very refined and well-behaved. Whilst in all honesty I’d rather than screeching at full volume – it is has a wonderful presence, mature and formal, but with a real playful edge.
The fragrance’s life isn’t particularly long – the leather remains throughout, with a vanillic sweetness that resembles the leather treatment in the drydown of Dzing!, the dirt accord of wet soil and mushrooms hides extremely quietly at the base, whilst the sweet booziness and smoke remain harmoniously quiet but always there. I also get a powerful, dusty saffron presence from start to finish although it isn’t listed – it adds a little more stinky warmth to the fragrance.
All in all, a really great scent, it’s just a shame that after an hour, it is barely detectable.
Dirt again, crushed leaves, the dampness of cedar wood shavings, and a dirty patchouli open Greenbriar 1968. There’s the scent of cut grass in here – but more like hay – farm like almost. I also pick up a weird “breath” aroma in here too, a little bit of an “off” note that reminds me of sweat and soiled skin.
Greenbriar begins to re-arrange itself and get confortable after a couple of minutes, where similarly to Cumming, Christopher Brosius’ honeyed tobacco rises up to the top, paired with the fresh-cut hay note. A worn leather appears and the wood shavings becomes a mere whisper.
The most fascinating part of Greenbriar for me is a very light, delicate floral note that smells extremely familiar but I feel like I haven’t smelt it before. Trying to hunt this down, I came across Fragrantica where it lists “cotton flower”… the perfumer also lists on his website that Greenbriar contains the faint scent of “grease covered cotton overalls”. I actually kind of get this, and the delicate flower smells nothing like laundry, but more the slightly dusty scent of cotton. So how the hell do I know that cotton has a scent? Well, my hobby used to be designing and making clothes – and buying rolls of fabric hold this unique scent, similarly to how a library smells of books. But, the perfumer is also correct when he describes this accord as “faint” – blink and you’ll miss it, but when you catch it, it is beautifully familiar and homely.
What remains up top for the rest of the fragrance’s life is the green, snapped-twig scent, a honeyed sweetness of tobacco, all overlaid with a translucent, slightly soiled leather. Unfortunately, yet again, it is extremely light on the skin, almost undetectable after a couple of hours, with no throw of the skin.
I’ve said it over and over again – the CB I Hate Perfume line needs to be stronger, and set in alcohol… putting these creations in small dilution in water is a complete waste of this guy’s talent. I adore so much of the line, but haven’t bought one for the reason mentioned above. It’s a real shame, if he dropped his watery nonsense, my wallet would be empty
Both beautiful perfumes, but with a tiny life-span.
Cumming available in 100ml water/15ml absolute – $69 cbihateperfume.com
Greenbriar 1968 100ml water – $80, 15ml absolute – $95 cbihateperfume.com