Well, I’m still on a vintage binge… it’s become my new obsession. Ming de Dynasty has been one of my favourite recently discoveries. I’m not the hugest fan of chypres, but I can hella appreciate a good one… Ming may be my favourite I’ve smelt.
Now, with no notes pyramids, or a single review to be found anywhere online, this thing is a bit of a challenge to pull apart… but I’ll do my best to put across how gorgeous I think this thing is!
Ming de Dynasty PDT starts with a sour, agressive rose that reminds me a little of the rose in Indigo by Magnetic Scent… they don’t smell the same, but it’s the closest similarity or comparison I’ve been able to make. It’s a rough, heavily peppered rose, overloaded with greens – cypress, galbanum, and a thick mossy base underneath already. There are hints of citrus up top – an industrial-like lemon/bergamot – adding a sour astringent quality to Ming.
There’s tropical ylang ylang, hints of jasmine, and a light dusting of resinous powder – vanilla and labdanum? The whole composition comes across as a slightly powdery green chypre, bitter yes – but I wouldn’t want to call it a “bitter green chypre” because to my mind that conjurs things like hyacinth, and a more pungent, typically “green” smell than Ming delivers to me.
I guess Ming is all about the peppered rose. There are hints of soap in the distance and subtle, clean white florals… traces of that deliciously old school powder. The thick, traditional chypre base drags Ming PDT out forever and whilst it remains relatively linear, it lasts forever on me in a translucent (in time), expensive and refined veil. The bitterness to it continues, although softens into a more doughy, “nutty” texture. It’s extremely classical, with enough of an edge, and a bite, to make it unlike anything else I’ve come across. Beautiful stuff.
Ming de Dynasty Parfum is of course in the same vein, but it starts sharper, with even more spice (pepper and clove?). The rose is sour and oily, almost (again reminding me of Indigo) as though it is tainted with mastic oil. There is an animalic edge to the parfum, like a thick rich civet that merely pops it’s head up in the PDT. Here, it gives off a skanky almost indolic vibe, along with a sweetness that bizarrely reminds me of violet.
The ylang is a little more pronounced, and in general, the florals give off a more pungent, impenetrable layer. There’s the dense greenery that is much more “perfume-y” than anything natural or earthy… again, cypress, galbanum, and here – there seems to actually be a swampy hint of hyacinth? There’s also a fizziness to it? The violet mirage from earlier? At times I feel I get a suede-like apricot, and then others just a soapy powder. The civet gives Ming Parfum a slight leathery feel… with the oakmoss, labdanum/amber (the amber accord is much more obvious in the parfum!) and just a hint of patchouli(?), it begins to settle skin-like, and extremely elegant.
Is there a trail of incense in here? I’m not sure – but after about two hours on the skin, the only fragrance I find Ming de Dynasty to have any similarities to is Rien by Etat Libre d’Orange! Civet, leather, incense – and here, oakmoss too. So gorgeous.
Sniffing the Parfum and the PDT side by side… The parfum remains sharper, with a more pronounced and long-lasting sour tart quality… it’s a little more textured with a pulsating animalic heart. There is a dry, charred wood quality in the Parfum (cedar) that I can’t find in the PDT, and an exaggerated leather bite. The PDT, in a more settled phase, has a nutty, powdery quality to it, whereas the parfum’s amber is more recognizable. The rose in the PDT becomes muted, like a waxy sheet with a softer greenery. Both variations are absolutely gorgeous, the PDT being much more easier to wear day-to-day (which I pretty much have been doing!), and the Parfum having a bit more of a sultry – at times it seems so dark it has metallic bite to it, and the woods so sharp they leave splinters… and then it softens. I guess that’s what I mean by “pulsating”, it has movement on the skin. The PDT remains a little more relaxed, but both endlessly enjoyable. If you can find these, BUY THEM.