1697 – Frapin

frapin 1697
1697 opens dense and hugely overwhelming. A MASSIVE combination of thick, syrupy booze (rum), matured with a bucket load of fragrant, culinary spices – cinnamon, clove, pink pepper. There’s a thick vanilla underneath, a burnt tonka bean vibe – it’s like a booze drenched Arabie, or Aziyade. I first smelt this briefly in Paris, and was totally knocked sick from it, I found it hideous… as vanilla heavy (particularly boozy) fragrances often go on my skin… but revisiting it now… I’m bowled over by it.

This thick, complicated syrup is counterbalanced by some herbal notes… in honesty, I have no idea what they could be… bay leaf? Lavender even? There’s something fragrant in there that makes this not an all out boozy-gourmand-spicy-resinous thing. I’d say “thankfully”, but I’m not really, 1697 settles pretty quickly. I love that opening, and wish the huge overload of spices and rum would continue for hours and hours, similar to how to complicated opening of Eau D’Epices continues to be mindblowing-ly complex, well into the heart. However, 1697 relaxes into a much softer scent, that I guess is easier to tolerate.

What happens as it quietens down, and melts into your skin, is the tonka/vanilla pushes forward, the faintest hint of rose and maybe even almond? – give this a creamy, plush skin smell – kept interesting by that remaining (and relatively hefty dose of) spiced rum. The whole feel of it is both comforting, luxurious and extremely elegant… Cuir Ottoman springs to mind out of my collection as something that makes me feel the same. I’ve always loved this kind of spice basket and dried fruit scent (the fruit here being dates, raisins – but with a more golden feel? Papaya? Mango? – well, the thought is there). I’ve never sprung for a bottle of something like this though, I guess I’ve been exploring the ground. But THIS… this might just be the one.

The drydown actually reminds me of Ambre Narguille (which I thought was pretty shit) – but done better of course. A refined, slightly plastic-y, slightly play-doh-y vanilla scent (you all know vanilla drydowns are generally not my thing)… and also to a lesser extent the tobacco/vanilla finale of Luctor et Emergo. Whilst it’s subtlety and restraint in the late drydown as it all falls into place is a slight let down from the truly glorious opening, I can still easily see myself with a bottle of this in the veryyyyyy near future.
Another quick comparison I’d also like to make, is how the rose in here smells very similar to Mohur by Neela Vermeire, a fragrance that totally didn’t work for me at all… here however? It all slips into perfect place.

A wonderful Duchaufour creation (and just as I thought I was sick to death of him!).

Frapin 1697 – 100ml EDP £135 – http://www.bloomperfume.co.uk

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6 thoughts on “1697 – Frapin

  1. LOL. I’m not surprised you like this one. Perfect for the cool weather too :)

    • Mmmmm the drydown was a touch of a letdown which has stopped me going for a bottle already (got someone who has a 3/4 full bottle for a good price)… although I have some big shopping trips planned and a few bottles in mind first :P

  2. Undina says:

    Before you decide to buy this one check Olfactoria’s blog: if I remember correctly, this perfume had a problem with either the formular or some ingridient (admitted by Duchaufour) and it would turn quickly. I don’t know if it has been resolved once the perfume was moved from the limited edition to the regular one.

  3. Pamela McVay says:

    You’ve definitely made me want to try this one on my own skin. I wanted to let you know, too, that I’ve been wearing my sample of Hedonist in very dry cold (5-15 degree Fahrenheit, or about -12 to -17 Celsius). In this weather the opening honey/orange/boozy smell stays for several hours and the sillage expands to several feet around me. As a perfume newbie I was really surprised how different it is on my skin in the dead of winter.

    • I may try Hedonist again but it definitely wasn’t for me!
      This one is beautiful, but the drydown was a LITTLE bit too much of a letdown for me to buy a bottle. Still worth a sniff!

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