I recently wrote about Peety by O’Driu… both Peety and Eva Kant are new releases from the Italian house, and I couldn’t help but feel immediately, without even sniffing Eva Kant, that it was the one going to be pushed away from the fragrant lovers eye, due to the whole “pee in Peety” thing. It’s a novelty, and something new in the fragrance world – after Secretions Magnifique, and M/Mink even, came Peety. Eva Kant doesn’t have a catch, other than it is a wonderful perfume. Now that I have my full bottle of the gorgeous stuff, I wanted to spend even more time with it before writing about it… so here it is
Eva Kant starts with a bracing grapefruit, rosemary, lavender combination. It’s herbal, astringent, but not as intense and bitter as many of the earlier O’Driu compositions. Underneath you can smell the wonderful O’Driu vanilla already, from afar that is… up close, the opening is too brash and loud to detect it. It smells a little medicinal, almost like an aromatherapy scent, but not at all so much as to be off-putting – it’s comforting more than anything.
A little spice works its way in, just a touch of ginger, and underneath a sheet of wet wood. Describing it, I pretty much feel like I’m rewording the marketing description… but to be fair, it’s pretty bang on for the most part. The damp, woodsy herbal opening, softened by the background vanilla, begins to turn more floral and even a little aquatic. No, there’s no calone, or heavily synthetic “watery” accords. Instead, the thing I pick up as “watery” seems to stem from a combination of the ginger, the citrus, the woods and the magnolia and chamomile that slowly joins in, to a point where it almost throws off the subtle smell of melon – think, Le Parfum de Therese. The floral heart to my nose is mainly a magnolia/jasmine/ylang with a pinch of rose. The spice keeping it lively, slightly abrasive, but overlaid with this just-off melon-vibe. It smells a little like a herbal tea, I guess the chamomile is to blame for that, but the florals take it into a more “perfume” territory, although nothing conventional!
The texture in Eva Kant is what is so extraordinary, it smells both dense, thick and oily, whilst at the same time conjuring this faux-melon-like translucency that at times feels extremely light. Then, you bring your nose back in and get the big hit of vanilla and benzoin underneath, that hint of something animal, even smoky – and the density of the heavy natural ingredients, and it’s all thick and smouldering again. Eva Kant has a great, great depth to it, whilst showing flickering signs of light throughout… it’s not a particularly sexy fragrance, nor do I find it romantic… it’s bold, dominating, confident and bitter-sweet. It has a warmth throughout it, which is what makes it so wearable, and a sweetness underneath that provides a huge breath of a relief. It’s volume on the skin is thankfully not too loud, otherwise Eva Kant could simply be too much to handle, but its presence makes itself known all day/night on your skin.
It’s strange… Eva Kant as it begins to relax and meld with your skin, seems impossible to review. Up close it acts as a chameleon, kind of morphing in and out of focus. I find it almost impossible to break down just an hour into wear, but experienced as a whole piece, when wearing it… all I can say is I love it. The best I can describe it is: a great light up top of slightly honeyed florals, ylang, magnolia, the creamy remains of citrus, with a softly spiced sandalwood and vanilla in the base – all draped in this floral water – and something just a little jarring throughout. O’Driu’s most intelligent and harmoniously composed work to date… a must try.
Eva Kant 50ml EDP O’Driu – 150 Euros http://www.odriu.eu/store/3-products