Fille En Aiguilles starts with a big, dried fruit and spice basket atop pine. It’s jammy, dense, all-out “forest-floor”-like, with an Aziyade-style Dr.Pepper combination of apricots, dates, cumin… all that gorgeous stuff. The pine is not at all reminiscent of floor-cleaner… well, here in the UK Pinesol isn’t sold, I don’t think, so we generally don’t have that association. Still, it’s richly spiced, and reminds me more so of Chypre Rouge than Arabie with its green floral spice. I get a hint of jasmine that runs throughout (reminding me a touch of Fig by Aftelier), but it’s all pine, fir, fruit and spice dominating.
Underneath, there’s a hint of bitter resins, a little amber, and a growing incense. The incense isn’t quite churchy, but it does develop into that kind of incense in the late drydown. The transition from warm pine and spice, to cool incense is pretty beautiful. Still, this isn’t really my kind of fragrance, and whilst wearing it, I feel as though I’m reviewing it as a piece of work, rather than a perfume I’d enjoy wearing. I can totally see its appeal, but for me, it almost smells a little simplistic once the top wears off, and I’m tired of all these pine, forest floor things out these days. Sure this isn’t exactly a new fragrance, but sampling it now, I feel no need to wear it. Chypre Rouge does a similar thing with much more interest and complexity and that is the Lutens’ forest floor, fruit & spice for me.
Fille en Aiguilles from here on is pretty linear, a pine/incense, sweetened with dried fruits, cumin, pepper and bay leaf… a typical Lutenesque composition that is undoubtedly a popular fragrance in the lineup, but nothing compared to some of the hugely original standouts beside it.