Miriam is one of my greatest perfume discoveries, I adore it. Loretta was absolutely wonderful – the Tableau de Parfum line has so far been extraordinary, so I was ridiculously excited to get my nose on the final fragrance in the collection by perfumer Andy Tauer: Ingrid.
Ingrid starts sharp and overwhelmingly complicated. Spiced citrus up top, bergamot, orange, lemon, clove, cinnamon – a hit of sweet sherbert… a crowded thing, difficult to pull apart but slowly begins to fall into place. The spiced citrus dominates up top, extremely classical, slightly dated with the heavy use of clove – reminding me of the citrus in the opening of Incense Rose, and also the spiced orange of Noir Epices (although far thicker). The cinnamon in the background is almost bitter, heating up Ingrid into a less green, less cardamom-heavy version of Eau D’Epices. There seems to be a little bay leaf, and maybe even pimento berry… the sheer warmth of the spice adds such a humidity to Ingrid it is literally dizzying.
The florals begin to come in… in time. Rose shows up first and for me, dominates. It’s a mixed bag of roses, on one side, fresh, bright and citrus-y… Moroccan? With a more potent, Bulgarian style rich, red beauty. It’s deep, dark, totally lush, with the clean aspect giving an ever so slight soapiness, providing a much-needed breath of fresh air in the surrounding darkness of Ingrid. The frangipani that also dominates is bizarre. It feels totally out-of-place, or let’s say, adjusting to a new surrounding. I’ve never smelt frangipani like this, I think we’re all too used to it in the background, next to maybe some tuberose or ylang… it’s a plush, dense tropical floral with a suede-like texture, here made more abrasive by the clove and cinnamon… but overall, it manages to give this more suede-like floral feel, acting as a harmonizer (usually the roses’ job?). It’s fantastic, and hugely original. It has a subtle suggestion of peach skin to it, and just a hint of greenery. There are other florals darting around, a flash of hyacinth (before the rose and frangipani come in and take over), a mirage of mangolia (maybe a combination of the citrus in the opening and the slightly waxy frangipani), and jasmine, sharpening the more bass-like noise of Ingrid.
Vanilla in the base adds a powdered, almost sherbert-y quality, similarly to how it’s used in the base of Miriam. But the spice entwines with it, along with a sharper dose of woods (sandalwood/cedar) and a little vetiver. I get a bunch of balsams and resins, along with a splash of civet. There’s a cumin-y sweatiness to it, and the patchouli/civet combo in the base add this sticky, overly rich finale which lasts on the skin for the duration of the heart and dry down. From afar, this thing throws of a true skank vibe, but not at all human-unclean. It’s so complex… but harmonious I assure you. Oh and of course it has some signature Tauerade going on, ambergris, tonka, lovely lovely!
So, after all this, reading it back, not even I would have a single clue how Ingrid smells if I hadn’t tried it already. So, en bref?
Spiced, thick citrus>> clove and cinnamon>> rich red roses, frangipani, jasmine>> vanilla, patchouli, woods and pure animal>> Tauerade. A stunningly original, oriental composition with some totally unexpected inclusions. On paper, it sounds like it shouldn’t work… but Tauer has this way of holding things together, and only just… which makes it so much more fun on your skin. An outstanding finale to the Tableau de Parfums line.
Tableau de Parfums 50ml EDP Ingrid – £110 http://www.scent-and-sensibility.co.uk