Ok so if you remember from my posts last year here and here, I visited Vero Kern (and Tauer) in Zurich for my Birthday I got an early sneak peak of the Mito Parfum back then ;) and I waited until I got home to try it properly and gave it a month before I sent my thoughts/review off to Vero. I’ve tried not to revisit it in hope to publish my review with a new mindset and a greater maturity a year on, but re-reading it, and sniffing right now the remaining drops from my little vial, I couldn’t really have worded it better (ok maybe one or two little edits!). It is a tranquil beauty that I’m sure will swarm the perfume world with gleaming praise as everyone gets their nose on it. So… I can’t find a picture of the bottle anywhere, so I’ll just for now use Sofo Berdzenishvili beautiful illustrations for the Mito EDP
Mito Extrait opens crisp and green – the lighter use of lemongrass allowing the more floral lemon notes of magnolia to push forward – as opposed to the more herbal opening of the Mito EDP. Herbal hints of lavender and basil seem to pop in and out of focus. The heavy, medicinal, camphorous feijoa-like opening of tuberose absolute slowly erupts to the forefront, throwing off a soft but undoubtedly vegetal, herbal quality. It’s plush but not candied, refined but allowed to smell raw. The tuberose and magnolia duo are incredible, the lemongrass still holding a solid place in the composition to freshen the intensity of the tuberose (allowing it to never overwhelm the magnolia), whilst enhancing the natural aroma of the magnolia – it almost acts like the passionfruit that the perfumer uses in other compositions to provide unexpected lift to otherwise dense notes.
A bitter dose of galbanum (and cypress) cuts through the florals, adding a classic greenery whilst hinting at where Mito Extrait will end up in its drydown. The magnolia, as it softens, joins with a champaca – harmonious with the galbanum to create a bitter-tea like scent, overwhelming and dense, a shade far deeper than the magnolia and lemongrass that still manages to lead at the top of the fragrance. The deep green seems to mimic subtle spice of clove or carnation, a jam-like greenery of pine with a natural stickiness – it melts on the skin.
The tuberose pulls these two sides together (along with touches of hyacinth) as it possesses both the white-floral quality of the magnolia and the bitter greenery of the galbanum (the white/green balance that Mito is all about!). It is an absolutely perfect new inclusion for Mito, previously a jasmine in the EDP.
The subtle peach from the EDP is still present, with a softer texture and a greater density, acting as a fruity suede on the base of Mito Extrait. A subtle spice from the champaca or galbanum, as mentioned earlier, helps keep the florals alive with an almost ginger-like heat (a total contrast to the almost mint-like mist of dew sitting on the tuberose/magnolia combo). It makes Mito sparkle even late into the heart.
The furry warmth from the base gradually softens the fragrance and manages to get more and more delicious as it goes on. A touch of civet adds an almost ganache-like richness, the greenery pulled into the base as expected by a hint of patchouli and a dose of oakmoss. The peach hums along with the oakmoss in a vintage Mitsouko-like chypre harmony, modernized only just by a resinous accord that seems to sit in the base of Mito, a dark lacquer of labdanum sweetened by a rich vanilla. The base is damp, dewy and fresh, whilst smelling rich and aged, like a new growth of greenery atop something old. Its texture is unbelievably soft on the skin, yet it smells absolutely full of life from the top to the bottom – retaining the fresh, joyful citrus quality of both the herbs and the florals throughout, with a base so perfect, it almost leaves me lost for words.
An absolute joy to wear! I adore it <3