Continuing from my last post about Bogue’s Tailor project, here are the final five quick reviews Don’t be put off by the lack of names to these fragrances, the first four were brilliant!
G is cool, mentholated, herbal galore up top. As raw as it gets, overloaded with geranium, a touch of clove, tea tree oil(!) or eucalyptus?, and camphorous citrus fruits. There’s a hefty dose of lemon peel, and orange – bitter and sour, enhanced with more masculine, cologne-like herbal notes (lavender?). It softens quickly, and sweetens as a vanilla/amber comes in underneath. There’s a touch of sweet smoke and an animal presence at the base (castoreum & civet), it is soft and skin like at this point, sitting like a layer of powdery honey – it’s a beautiful little structure that I’d love to sniff more “complete”. (These fragrances are beginnings… scents to later work on in a Tailor-made fashion).
H opens beautiful again (something consistent with this perfumer’s work ;)), clove, vegetal greenery, a lactonic quality almost like coconut? Or is it wood? There’s peppery incense and a medicinal accord, unfortunately the herbal pitch underneath gets a little uncomfortable on my skin but the growing presence of sandalwood is beautiful. I wish the volume of the woods and herbal notes was reversed. However, it is harmonious without a doubt. With an unusual pimento/pepper-like accord that reminds me of Shiso by Aftelier Perfumes (a fragrance I think is gorgeous, although completely unwearable and not to my taste!). The similar use of antique-smelling clove is what pushes this fragrance into the “unwearable” category for me. A labdanum and tobacco underneath add a sticky black layer and H turns from bright and creamy to dark and quite menacing. Fab!
L is one hell of a beautiful citrus accord. Sour fruits of lemon, yuzu?, a slightly bitter/salty seaweed-like smell, and a bunch of culinary herbal greens open L. It softens surprisingly quickly giving way to a bright herbal lavender with an almost gourmand-like, vanillic, balsamic smell… it’s subtle though, on my skin at least. The herbal notes reminding me of Dirty by Lush, only without the mint and mineralic overload. There’s a soapy quality to it that I love, paired with a touch of jammy pine. It’s an awesome beginning, although lacking any base it fades quickly leaving something just a touch animal behind. I love love love the way this guy structures these! That hint of animal in each one is a complete tease!
N is a blast of smoke, animal and powder. BBQ’d meat and raw earthy vetiver. Holy shit it’s good! And reminds me greatly of Cologne Reloaded :D Maybe this came first? Bogue’s use of smoke, vanilla, vetiver and animalics surpasses any other that I’ve smelt (Patchouli 24 style I’m on about here!), it’s incredible. Where this differs though is quite remarkable… the birch softens, and up rise flowers! There’s a pinch of soapy white florals, maybe a touch of tuberose? The softest of roses, there’s a hint of indole in there – it’s the most polite, pristine floral accord imaginable, smelling like an expensive bar of soap… and in the opening totally overwhelmed by BBQ smoke! An awesome, unexpected construction – drying down to soft, dry woods with a pinch of powdered, soapy rose.
P may be my favourite of all 9. Herbal, cool geranium which very slowly gives way to a beautiful, clean, tropical floral bouquet. The first thing that emerges underneath the raw greenery is frangipani… a light, peachy white floral, with just a hint of tropical pollen. There’s ylang ylang, jasmine, a hint of fuzzy white musk – paired with the bitterness of leather, dry woods and cool, camphorous herbal notes. It is astringent, masculine, yet underneath soft, sweet and heavenly floral. Skin like spice of cinnamon, mace and cumin wrap the florals to your skin and the contrasting, more masculine/abrasive side manages to entwine harmoniously to create something fascinating – similar to the first time you smell Tubereuse Criminelle, although the partnership of camphorous menthol and florals lasts until the end of this. If this was worked on to become a complete fragrance, it would be true love. It finishes with honeyed florals paired with the remains of sharp greenery and sandalwood – gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous.
GO SNIFF THESE! <3<3