Terrasse a St-Germain starts with just a hint of sour greenery and citrus, a candied rhubarb/lemon note with a white musk underneath. There’s a patchouli underneath but the fragrance doesn’t smell too heavy… it definitely has some weight behind it but the floral bouquet up top of rose, just a pinch of violet, freesia and lotus (I’d have never guessed those last two) smells delicate and very feminine. – Yes, a little like a fancy bath soak, but too fancy, and only the floral accords nothing else.
The citrus burns off quickly, leaving a warm light patchouli – the “pink-y, purple-y” florals and white musk. It’s very nice, easy to wear – a little too safe for myself but would be nice to splash on without thinking about it too much. The late drydown keeps the white musk going strong until the end, paired with some light, pale woods (a pretty good sandalwood actually), and a delicate rose. Nice enough but relatively flat after just an hour.
Stilettos on Lex opens with a very quick-to-disappear citrus accord with hints of lilac, giving way to a gorgeous powdery mimosa/heliotrope, still giving off just a hint of lilac, and a fruity accord of pear… weirdly enough. There’s a little rose, a little musk again, a sweetness underneath of vanilla – and whilst it sounds over the top and opulent – it sits on the skin in a sweet, light layer that when not broken down, smells little more interesting than a half-decent designer fragrance release. Which is unfortunately to say because I started to like it for a second…
The powdery, almond-y, cosiness of the florals (tainted pink yet again) dominates over any fruity accords and what remains is just the light floral heart leading into a base of white musk and vanilla (with just a hint of carnation in the background providing a touch of spice). It’s both a little oldschool, and very modern – but it lacks interest as it goes on and its slightly high-pitch becomes a bit irritating.
I have to say after the first two, this one was totally unexpected.
Amour de Palazzo starts with a huge dose of castoreum, a fecal oud, and load of uncomfortable spices (clove, cardamom, cumin, pepper?) – it’s totally unappetizing, although thankfully light and well handled. It begins to settle into a smooth leather, still hugely animalic due to a nutty, smoky castoreum with just a tiny fecal edge. The spices tame down in heat and pitch and become a smooth dusting.
It’s still a bit screechy, but in a good way… I think. Underneath the animal leather is a potent, dry cedarwood, a hint of the clean patchouli from Terrasse a St Germain, and the signature white musk contrasting with the animal notes. It’s familiar, but also very unique – thankfully getting cleaner and more wearable as it goes on. A warm amber in the base turns Amour de Palazzo into a structure not too dissimilar to M by Puredistance, and whilst they both have the leather/spice/amber going on, as expected this one comes out on top for me. Whilst it’s a little less exciting just half an hour in (as with all of these), it falls into a smooth, warm skin smell with just a touch of “stank”. My verdict: This is a gorgeous leather I’d recommend
Jul et Mad 50ml EDP Terrasse a St-Germain, Stilettos on Lex, Amour de Palazzo – 230 Euros www.juletmad.com