Moon Bloom is the 100% natural, debut fragrance by Hiram Green
Moon Bloom opens as a crisply green, topical tuberose overload. A perfect hit of heavy narcotics up top… an opening that whilst featured often in hard-hitting, cult favourite tuberose fragrances, never gets old.
Here, it throws off hints of banana-skin, natural methyl-benzoate, astringent nail-varnish, along with a potent honey-laden pollen of ylang ylang. The tropical feel is amplified by jasmine and ylang, throwing off a heated, fragrant dust/pollen in the style of Les Nez’ Manoumalia without the “rot”.
Balanced perfectly is both the heavy lactonic accords of the tuberose, the swampy greenery, and the high-pitched screech of the natural aroma. It’s totally multifaced, and added coconut blends seamlessly, smelling more like an aspect of the florals, rather than a sole coconut note partnered with the tuberose. It reminds me a touch also of Datura Noir, without the almond and liquorice – just those fleshy florals that verge on sun-tan lotion, only here the rawness adds a bitter edge, making it smell more mature and romantic.
As it begins to settle and the florals pull closer to the skin, I get a clove-y hit of carnation join in, the jasmine gets a touch stronger, and a subtle pimento berry-like heat adds a spicy edge to the floral heart. It smells like baked skin without being at all salty or marine – with a loud presence on the skin that doesn’t get quite as obnoxious as say, Carnal Flower (which I also really like).
Underneath there is a hefty dose of deep vanilla, not at all cloying or cup-cake-y, paired with labdanum it creates an amber accord that thankfully doesn’t hold together as a generic amber and instead adds a sweetly resinous accord, partnered with some dry woods.
The drydown turns just a touch powdery and I can’t decide whether that’s the vanilla alone or a touch of orris root, either way – the tuberose still dominates start to finish in a relatively simplistic smelling, but beautiful perfume. It’s impossible not to love wearing perfumery like this. Kudos Hiram Green! My nose is glued to my skin.
Moon Bloom 50ml EDP Hiram Green – 135 Euros www.hiramgreen.com