Encens Mythique D’Orient – Guerlain

Encens Mythique D'Orient

MMMMMMM! Unexpected love for this opening! I expected a standard Arabian incense, dry and peppered – I got something not too dissimilar to Putain Des Palaces by Etat Libre D’Orange.

I get a tangy, violet-laden aldehyde with a hint of leather underneath – candied sweet and again, not too far from Cuir Amethyste by Armani Prive. There’s just a hint of bright citrus’ up top, like a sugar-coated lemon peel, but quickly the sweet violet and high-pitched orange blossom take over. It has a sherbert-y texture to it, literally fizzy and almost “pink”.

There is incense under there – a light, ever so slightly metallic smoke – blended harmoniously with the now turning resinous violet.
As the violet effect begins to settle a touch, a rose seems to take over. Clean, with just a hint of exotic spice, and a slightly paper-y texture like the roses of Ormonde Jayne’s Ta’if… they are completely different fragrances but the texture of the rose feels the same. Some jasmine – just a hint of rot but as good as clean, ripens the roses and bulks out the floral accord. The florals don’t dominate at all though… what does, is this hint of smoke, a sweet, candied amber-y base, and the leather!

Leather? Well, it’s a super soft suede in the style of Bottega Veneta, or Cuir Ottoman at a push… it’s supple, skin-like and a little salty. This is given a hell of a lot of lift and life by a musky ambergris and civet. The civet adds a plush richness and the ambergris makes the whole fragrance become this translucent-ish, multi-coloured hologram of a composition. Sweet shit, I sound like I love it don’t I? I kind of do.

It’s very nice – sharing similarities with a few fragrances I really love – but for me once the aldehydes burn off and that violet-thing going on at the beginning, it loses it’s buzz just a touch. I love the salty, musky, leathery base (although it’s much lighter and more gentle than I’d have loved to smell it)… still – it’s pretty gorgeous. The rose drying out into the leather, the hint of salt, a little sandalwood, the high pitch incense without a trace of pepper… well done Guerlain – you’ve impressed me.

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13 thoughts on “Encens Mythique D’Orient – Guerlain

  1. I get along with Songe d’un Bois d’Ete pretty well. Rose Nacree du Desert I haven’t cared for. This one…I don’t know. The jury is still out. Several people whose opinions I value (yes, that includes you!) quite like this one.

    • I haven’t tried the other two – never had an interest. But had this sample given to me by Vanessa at Bonkers and thought it’d be worth a sniff – turns out it was worth writing about haha. I wouldn’t wear it – well, I would if I had a free bottle haha, but I wouldn’t even consider buying it. It has similarities to lots of things. But it’s like a perfect “safe” “thoughtless” wear for me. If that makes sense :) Recommended – although awkwardly. I’m far too snobby! I feel so dire writing about a Guerlain exclusive.

      • A scent is a scent. No matter who put it out. Your “snobbery” is appreciated. It’s a breath of fresh air.

      • Well, I can be honest :’) Haha. But you’re totally right, I just don’t wanna accept it. To be fair, I’m never biased about a brand or anything, I’ll always be honest and tell anyone my favourite cheapies and designers and whatnot, or rate badly something from a house I love… you know :) So it’s fairrrrrrrr.
        Hope you’re keeping well anyway David! Thanks for popping over here again I appreciate your support x

  2. This is a love and I could easily wrap myself in Rose Nacree too. Actually I’m surprised that you like it so much as I thought it would be a bit translucent for your shocking tastes :)

    • I do really like it because I’ve always loved that whole fizzy violet thing – and I love Putain which it slightly reminds me of in the opening. Still, I wouldn’t buy it – maybe if it was a hell of a lot cheaper :P

  3. Kafkaesque says:

    I’m so surprised that you liked this one so much. Even setting aside the cost issue or wanting/not wanting to actually buy a bottle, I’d have never thought you’d be impressed, let alone verging on the almost “love it” phase.

    Hm, I think I’m the only person who is completely hostile to all of these modern Guerlains. I’ve only tried 2 out of the 3 in this particular collection but, like all the rest, I’m…. *shrug.* Honestly, I wouldn’t wear it even if they gave it to me. But I’m in a distinct minority on that.

    • Maybe because I expected nothing :’) Everyone raved about Bois D’Armenie and I was totally underwhelmed by it, whilst still thinking it’s “alright”.
      Nah I’m not that into them, but then I’m not all bigging up the vintages either. I do love some of them of course, but yeh – all these new ones seem to concentrate on “sweet benzoin and a bit of incense” in everything :’)

  4. Natalie says:

    This was a surprise like for me, too, as I don’t love any of the modern Guerlains in the tall thin bottles (this is how I think of them :) ). But it’s nice. Not buy-it nice (for me), but nice.

  5. Vanessa says:

    Great review! I love how your nose can identify so many facets of a perfume and you really capture the finer points of a scent I might have just called ‘fuzzy’ or ‘slightly catching you in the back of the throat’. I did like this but it wasn’t a visceral love like Ta’if, which I agree is in this same slightly raspy rosy incensey territory.

    • Thanks for stopping by Vanessa! I forgot how you felt about this one? I was surprised :) Not a love, but a big like for sure.
      Ta’if I need to try again, but last time I was in London I had it on my hand and was desperately craving a bottle, need to try it again <3

  6. […] OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ENCENS MYTHIQUE D’ORIENT: Kafkaesque, Smellythoughts, The Alembicated […]

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