Back to tackling this fantastic, gigantic project! Continuing with the Fire sample set:
Yet again, can find hardly any note pyramids of these ones so hopefully I’ll get this as spot on as I can!
Incendere by Mermade Magikal Arts
A bone dry cinnamon atop dried woods and incense
Incendere opens with a nose-singeing cinnamon and high-pitched lemon. The lemon gets quickly overtaken by the spice, that immediately brings to mind the small, bright-red fireball hard candies I used to have when I was a kid! It’s a sweet cinnamon for sure, but extremely potent – tainted with what seems like cumin and some other culinary things! The cinnamon sticks around for a good while – very slowly transcending into an incense.
The incense is bone dry, de-sweetened, and paired with a similarly dry/charred sandalwood. Mmm! Well, I say mmm because it’s very good at what it’s doing. For me it’s not quite to my taste, mainly I guess because I’m not a huge fan of cinnamon straight-up, and I’m also a little tired of incense/sandalwood drydowns (especially when there are so many fantastic ones already out there!). Having said that, I know there’s a lot of you out there that can’t get enough of them so – I’ll continue from “Mmm!”…
The culinary spice stays strong - sizzling on the skin with a high pitch – and the very natural smelling wood/incense finishes Incendere – bitter and slightly medicinal. As I said, it’s not at all something I would wear, but for any cinnamon lovers, and for sandalwood fans - it’s fantastic!
Kiss Of Agnayi by Maria Mcelroy/ Alexis Karl of Cherry Bomb Killer Perfumes
A short lived but fun medicinal, woody, bubblegum thing
Oooh now this is something yummy and unexpected. Up top I get a blast of synthetic, sweet oud (black agar?) atop an almost bubblegum-like vanilla. It smells immediately like a slightly quieter version of something in the Montale line up. All out sweet glue-y oud (everyone says band-aid, I think it’s more like glue). There is a fruitiness to it too that reminds me of – cherry I guess? The oud isn’t at all challenging – instead it gives Kiss Of Agnayi a kind of cosmetic-like scent, making it smell like an obscure lip balm or something :’)
It smells a little honeyed, sweet top to bottom but not high-pitched or cloying. It dries down to something that gets a little less interesting as the oud-y vibe vanishes and a musky/woody thing pushes Kiss Of Agnayi into a territory that would make a good mainstream, feminine designer release. The sweet candy smell of the opening (ethyl maltol?) stays through to the end along with a mysterious touch of heated spice. Not for me, but fun while it lasts.
Caliente by Jane Cate of A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes
A pollen-heavy honeysuckle/jasmine/ylang, a lovely summer floral.
Gorgeous! A strong, pollen-heavy opening, laden with natural honey reminds me of a much more enjoyable opening/version of Hedonist by Viktoria Minya. It’s freshened with a touch of citrus up top, and smells like digging your nose deep into a bush of honeysuckle.
Immediately underneath is a warm, thoroughly enjoyable vanilla – sweet, creamy, adding a lactonic-ish edge to the florals on top. There’s no cinnamon, or any real heat – just warm flowers. An ever-so-slightly indolic jasmine comes in, the honey still sweetening Caliente, the accord smelling much more modern than say, the jasmine/honey of Van Cleef & Arpels First.
Infact, even the drydown begins to smell like Hedonist – but again, without piercing metallic notes that I didn’t get on with in that. The florals stay full and fresh – the jasmine/honeysuckle giving off a slight ylang-ylang vibe (bringing to mind Haute Claire by Aftelier only a little less green and raw). The drydown is warm, floral, sweet and honeyed – with an ambery/vanilla/tonka and a touch of powder – surprisingly soft and really nice to wear! A bit too similar to Haute Claire for me to need it, but a very, very nice summer floral.
Flor Azteca by Juan Perez of The Ezotic Island Perfumer
OMG IT’S AMAZING!!!!!!
Arhghghg I love this already! Heavy tuberose, heavy methyl benzoate (strong, medicinal feijoa-like aroma – natural quality of the tuberose a la Tubereuse Criminelle… but stronger!) – a bucket load of creamy white floral petals a top a hair-colourant-like astringency: almost nose burning! Holy shit am I getting chocolate now?! Oh sweet Jesus kill me now – you are fucking delicious.
Ok, calm down… Chocolate white florals! ARGHGHGHGHG. This is amaze-balls no joke. Ok, calm down. So… Tuberose - all out tuberose. But there’s more florals under there, and spice! But not chilli thank God – it smells warm, like a nutmeg, or a ginger – it reminds me of the mace of Vero Profumo’s Onda. The hair-dye smell begins to disappear and the lactonic vibe of the florals and cocoa comes out more so – narcotic, fleshy – absolutely perfect.
Underneath is more creamy goodness, vanilla, benzoin, tonka - everything vanilla, but there are woods and earth and a salty, vetiver-like smell. There’s a fungal quality to it like mushroom – but it smells more floral, like the decayed indolic side to the tuberose – or an absolutely spot-on gardenia accord. It’s absolutely dizzying and without a doubt the best… I think I was about to type “The Best White Floral I’ve ever smelt”… I may have to leave it in quotations as a thought… make of it what you will – I don’t want to get ahead of myself here…
Anything challenging and high-pitched (the raw tuberose, similar to Bolt Of Lightning by Jar, in the opening) vanishes as it begins to settle – the gourmand notes rounding out the tuberose into something so awesome I’m pretty lost for words on what to write any more. Cannot tell you how much I need this in my life.
Afternoon Slant by Dabney Rose of Dabney Rose
A minimal and slightly mysterious, warm rose/jasmine floral.
A lovely and very unusual stewed-rose-tea-like opening and a touch of candied lemon starts Afternoon Slant. The tea-like quality reminds me of champaca, and the rose quickly dries out into a slight potpourri-kind of smell. A hint of dried fruits that smells a touch boozy brings to mind plums and raisins atop dried woods – a Lutens-esque creation.
There seems to be a hint of indolic jasmine and something a touch resinous underneath – it’s totally bitter/sweet and very mysterious on my skin – I can’t tell what to make of it. What it is, is a dried-out, sun-bathed floral, a top a resinous/woody accord and just a hint of berry sweetness. It’s hard to pin down – smelling slightly minimal, quiet and almost meditative. It almost feels like I’m doing something wrong by trying to pick it apart! It’s a little honeyed, a touch warm and ambery - with a subtle gourmand accord of almost buttery white jasmine? Not sure where that came from. It’s not for me, and just a touch too quiet for my taste – but very pretty in its subtlty and the warm/human smell it gives my skin as it dries down… interesting.
Chang Chang by Shelley Waddington of EnVoyage Perfumes
An extremely creative fragrance that breaks any expectations you have of “fruity-floral”.
Oh man I love this too. This opening is absolutely beautiful. A blinding intensity of I Have No Idea, atop an abstract, bitter citrus accord, on top of a mystery white floral bouquet – all out-blinded by this herbal, ozonic, marine, soiled smell. It reminds me a touch of M/Mink by Byredo, with a similar lemon-y marine, almost avant-garde opening. The soiled smell throws off from afar and isn’t present at all up-close, the first thing that sprung to mind was an old shoe… Yehhhh.
Underneath are these florals which are so difficult to pull apart. I think I get magnolia, rose, tuberose, a touch of jasmine – a fresh greenery and the smell of hot skin underneath a cool, marine-like dressing. It’s very bizarre – but gradually gets sweeter as a vanilla shows up from underneath, along with some holographic fruit notes that have literally no density to them at all. Composition wise, it smells like something that Humiecki & Graef would come up with – and infact I get a similar fruity-vibe as in Multiple Rouge (with that wet-dog accord). As the aldehydic-thing dies down, this alien fruitiness becomes more apparant, the florals retreating slightly behind the fruit-salad.
A muskiness that smells like potent ambergris keeps throwing this off the skin and yep, I absolutely love it. The complicated and impeccably blended drydown shows hints of berries, vanilla cream, white florals, marine-notes, sappy greenery, salted musk, beeswax, and far too much other stuff to name – all I can say is, it is an exceptionally creative piece of work. Absolutely brilliant <3
Primordial Scents 2012 Fire Sample Set – http://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/102071327/fire-perfume-samples-primordial-scents