A sharp, astringent cherry tobacco and a smoky incense burst out of Luctor Et Emergo, it’s one of my favourite openings (I’m sure I say that all the time). It almost smells boozy, with a hit of rum up top that quickly (unfortunately) disappears. A synthetic, rubbery, medicinal smell penetrates through the centre, whether it’s a combination of the incoming almond and the smoke, or a synthetic oud accord… I’m not sure.
Just a touch of clove joins in – turning the pipe tobacco suggestion into a more “kretek cigarette” smell (I used to smoke them!). That medicinal oud-y accord in the background adding a middle-eastern feel to the fragrance rather than it being all-out gourmand. The almond notes get more prominent adding a touch of powder and for some reason a “rubber” texture. Whilst it all sounds ridiculous heavy, it’s surprisingly light, and just a touch “sticky”. A balance I’m not always fond of but can forgive because of how damn good it smells.
What seems most dominant atop the smoky, cherry scent of the heart, is a mothball/leathery smell that brings to mind Vierges et Toreros, Putain Des Palaces and Humiecki and Graef’s Blask… OK so that’s a big mish mash of fragrances I listed, but I can track subtleties of all of them in here. Infact, Blask is what this reminds me of most (one of my favourites in the H&G lineup). They both share this “tannin” kind of smell that Blask lists as a “red wine” accord, atop woods and smoke – both with a sour fruity accord that seems to be cherry in both. Luctor Et Emergo is sweeter though, I suppose from the almond – but both play with a texture overload of bitter/sour/sweet. A touch of violet seems to add to the powdered almond, that’s where my association with Putain comes in as this accord seems to be identical.
A vanilla comes in from the base and I totally understand when people say LeE turns “play-dough-y”. A lot of people seem to get playdough from almond and vanilla, but I love that combination so no complaints from me. It begins to round out and become smoother, a little more easy to wear and a little less unusual, I kind of wish all the crazy shit up top stayed until the end but, all good things die out too quickly. Still – the drydown is gorgeous, a rubbery, spiced vanilla with a touch of smoke and a sour edge. An absolutely beautiful fragrance that I won’t be able to afford any time soon 
Luctor et Emergo 100ml EDP People of the Labyrinths – $180 Luckyscent
Love your review as always. I had a sample of this last year and savored it. Is there a slight connection to Jarling here? Maybe some almond? Saw your JAR video and Jarling was also my favorite. I had the chance to sniff them in New York. Jarling was the only thing I put on that day. I overdosed on it!
The Luctor does have that Play Doh scent, but I think of it as a sophisticated Play Doh scent. I also like the dusty smell of the Luctor. Maybe that’s the mothballs you’re talking about? Yes, when I think of it. It’s mothballs. You sure know how to pick apart a scent!
Have you ever tried vintage Farnesiana from Caron? You might like it. It seems related to the Luctor and Jarling.
You’re right! I didn’t think of Jarling but nice comparison.
I was so close to getting a bottle in Paris but I resisted.
How bad is that! At least I know where to start now. I think it’s the whole vintage thing which puts me off, when a house doesn’t smell as good today and you have to track them all back… that’s where I lose interest.
Glad to hear more love for this one.
The downside to having a nice place to live haha.
Ha! I would overdose too if I got the chance to wear it for the day
The dusty smell of Luctor is what makes it for me – I love the tobacco note (one of my least favourite notes!) – it’s done absolutely beautifully. It has that smoky, dirtiness to it that Cuir Venenum by Parfumerie Generale has, but they smell very different.
I haven’t tried that… infact, I haven’t truly tried anything from Caron
Thanks for your input Hylda
I’m already DESPERATE for a bottle, which on my salary minus the rent… would take a long long long time to save for
This sounds a lot different than I thought it would. I thought it was more fruity for some reason but now I think it might be something I’d like. It’s pricey though so I’ll hold off on trying it because I already have some bank breakers on my wish list. Oh, and I will get back to you on the rest of those scents I am trying of yours. Things have been nutty around here for a while. I didn’t forget.
I thought it would be all almond marzipan – I was very wrong
I’m desperate for it! Haha.
It’s pricey but not that bad considering it’s 100ml
Don’t worry poodle you have a better memory than me, I’d forgotten! :’)
Hope you’re keeping well x
Oh yes what a mish mash of notes! But it all seems to work in the most interesting way. And it comes in a chemistry beaker! Great to read about it and I always love your unique point of view on fragrance.
Have you tried this one lanier?
It is a total mishmash but fantastic, it seems this one is advertised as a cult fragrance on Luckyscent and stuff and it gets all this hype yet hardly anyone seems to write positively about it :’) Very strange.
Thanks for the support as always x
I am going to Los Angeles next month and will drop by The Scent Bar (Lucky Scent) and ask to try it out! I can’t wait.
Cheers!
Ahhh don’t get your hopes up too much I don’t want to overhype it
And lucky you, I’m riddled with envy of your visit there
Hope you enjoy it though!
What I love about your blog is that I get to try some perfumes from a special store where I never know what to ask for. Here’s a look, if you see anything else that is worth trying do tell me! – the review is awesome as always! -
http://www.c5de.com/home.html# —> products
Thanks R, have never heard of that shop! The site is very strange.
x
Try anything and everything