Un Bois Vanille opens with a coconut and orchid combo, surprisingly light but sticky, like a sweet residue – which becomes quickly more apparant as the leading vanilla shows up. The vanilla is a good, traditional, straightforward one to me. Vanilla as many of you know, isn’t my favourite note, I like it, but not when it’s leading; the coconut doesn’t quite give me the interesting angle I need to be particularly interested in finding out what the rest of Un Bois Vanille is all about.
But anyway! It’s nice enough. The liquorice that everyone goes on about, is a mere touch on me – more subtle than the liquorice woods of Aomassai for example – it acts like a black, herbal sheet underneath the vanilla, rather than a partnering note.
The combination of sweet vanilla, tonka and benzoin – combine to make a vanilla that admittedly, has a few little textures going on – a lactonic note of condensed milk, a slightly bitter more woody aspect, and a traditional vanilla extract smell: culinary like a cupcake.
A sweet honeyed caramel, and a touch of smoke add a slightly more mature “burnt” quality to the heart, and the drydown of Un Bois Vanille brings a buttery-soft Lutens’ sandalwood and drier cedar. It’s as expected, no twists or turns – just a straightforward vanilla (at least after the quiet, harmless coconut and 2-minute mystery (imaginary?) orchid disappear). Oh man, brackets inside brackets, I must be getting bored of this one.
Okay, it’s not that bad!
A straightforward vanilla soliflore that has good enough longevity and throw, to be considered “nice”.
Un Bois Vanille does little for me… in fact, I haven’t found a vanilla soliflore that suits me yet D: Disaster. What is everyone elses favourite vanilla?
Un Bois Vanille 50ml EDP Serge Lutens – 82 euros http://www.sergelutens.com

I didn’t get orchid while wearing it. On me it’s like a vanilla-amber-liquorice pudding. With a tiny hint of woodiness.
Have you tried Vanilla Marble by Agonist?
I have – so far it’s the only vanilla soliflore I’d consider buying. It’s much much nicer than this I think, but yet again, too straightforward – Agonist’s Arctic Jade dries down to a similar vanilla and I want a bottle!
I haven’t tried any other from Agonist. The brand is not available in Poland. I got the Vanilla Marble sample from a friend.
I know they offer sample coffret but I’m not willing to spend money on that.
I got a lot of wood, pinch of orchid, not so much amber but I get your point, it has got a powder to it – vanilla heavy amber we’ll say D: Blergh!
I quite liked it. Not something I would like to wear but if I had a bath foam smelling like that I would be delighted.
Totally, it’s more of a bath product/hand wash smell. That’s what I think of most vanillas to be honest.
I see. Vanilla is also not my favourite note but it seems I like it more than you.
I really like UBV with it’s yummy undertones.
Then again, I enjoy vanillas. Have you tried L’Artisan’s Vanilia (I don’t understand why they discontined it?!)?
I haven’t tried the original Vanilia. But yeh, not into straightforward vanillas, not yet anyway, I go through phases
I’m sure it’ll come around! Thanks for commenting Ines!
I agree with you about UBV. I’m a fan of Tobacco Vanille but there’s a lot going on in that one. And I just blind bought L’Artisan’s Vanille Absolutement which I hope I don’t regret…:)
I have tried Tobacco Vanille a few times, I don’t think I’d wear it myself, but I’d like to smell it on someone for sure – still, not a huge vanilla fan :/
I haven’t tried the L’Artisan’s enough to comment but I’m sure it’s pretty good
Thanks for reading Lorraine! Let me know what you think of VA once it arrives.
Coeur de Vanille – Visconti
the best – no discussion
I’ll hunt it out. Thanks for the heads up