Tindrer opens immediately as a violet, but cut with a green, vegetal number of accords that remind me of green peppers, wet soil, cypress, clove, a touch of mint, and a handful of culinary herbs that have a spicy/heat to them. Damp and dewy, the violet is both candied and light, whilst also resembling the actual flower and the earth with it – soiled, heady with a subtle, bitter edge. Brilliant!
The texture of the opening to heart is fantastic: dense, yet almost translucent, filled by a “fatty”, aquatic layer that only slightly resembles a touch of melon-like calone, but more a vegetal water, maybe slightly “figgy” – stemone? It does bring to mind a similar concept and execution to Un Matin D’Orage by Annick Goutal, although Tindrer is denser and more intense, pushing forward harder with the green notes, allowing anything soiled, fungal or vegetal to come to the surface if it wants to. It sounds much less refined than the Goutal, but it’s not, it’s more… raw?
The violet continues to lead, with a pretty hefty dose of heliotrope, a hint of carnation and maybe just a smidge of jasmine (a mere indolic smidge). The greenery from the opening still perfectly balanced, if not a touch jarring at times, pairs with the florals harmoniously – some marine-heavy ambergris underneath supporting everything. I say “marine-heavy” because a driftwood-like bilgey note (only not at all as rotted as it sounds) seems to sit in the base, maybe adding that mirage of aquatic translucency to the top… I’m not sure :) But it’s definitely very salty, bringing to mind the salty/musk/violet combo of Dans Tes Bras (which I love).
A cedar wood in the base (which reminds me of the vegetal, almost banana-skin pungency of the cedar in Smell Bent’s Totem Eclipse), adds a little more substance, and whilst this all sounds extremely heavy and overwhelming – the translucency and thick aquatic quality still persists… it’s nowhere near as heavy as it sounds… kinda…
Tindrer is a complicated one: a kind of mash-up of fragrances I seem to have smelt before but compiled into something which doesn’t smell like anything else. I really, really like this take on a green violet – and it just further pushes forward my point of – go sample Spyros’ work! Magnetic Scent is a small, solid collection of brilliantly unique fragrances :D <3
Tindrer 50ml EDP Magnetic Scent – 110 Euros http://www.magnetic-scent.com