Une Rose Vermeille – Tauer

Une Rose Vermeille
Rose and raspberries! MMMMMM! A combination I fell head over heels for in Secret Garden (Aftelier). Une Rose Vermeille opens with a tart lemon aldehyde accord that smells like opening a box of cheescake, the plastic wrapping and all. This plastic accord dominates up top for a few, glorious minutes – sweetened with citrus fruits and the underlying raspberry, which from a distance is already filling the air.

Unexpectedly, I smell a slightly camphorous, medicinal accord of lavender and a hint of clove, maybe even a touch of bay. Once you pick these up, it’s easy to see how Une Rose Veremille fits in with the other two fragrances in the Homages trio – they all possess a bitter green edge referencing perfumes of the past. I always considered URV the more playful and modern of the bunch, but its herbal undercurrent and classic aldehyde opening douse it in a maturity that smells like the younger (although technically older) sister to the future Miriam (Tableau De Parfums).

The sweetness of Une Rose Vermeille resembles that of a sleek, shiny jam. It scents a cloud around you of absolute delicious, playful fruitiness – but fascinating up close when this almost seems to disappear with a slightly metallic, oily rose/jasmine/carnation? combo and a hint of a resinous base smothers the skin. The rose, whilst I say is oily and metallic – is undoubtably modern and fresh, with a bite of pepper and a texture that is both young and soft, but has sharp edges.
Some violet comes in, adding a hint of fragrant powder until it practically takes the lead with the rose. The violet never smells dated or old fashioned (it never does to me anyway!) due to the crisp, culinary herbal accord still going strong close to the skin.

At times, the sandalwood takes on a slightly gourmand edge, like a Lutens’ use where it subtly resembles bakery – although I’m thinking more almond biscotti than buttered croissants. But this is extremely quiet underneath a large dose of Tauer ambergris and vanilla – a beautiful combo that keeps the fun in Une Rose Vermeille and its subtly complicated construction upfront and long-lasting. It’s during this drydown (despite the vanilla), that Une Rose Vermeille matures even more, losing its jammy sweetness but staining the woods underneath with a sour red laquer. A hint of now almost bitter powder clings to the skin and Une Rose Vermeille ages before your eyes/nose. I can never tell which stage of the fragrance is more beautiful, but up until it vanishes, I am left choked at how perfect it is.

Une Rose Vermeille 30ml EDP Tauer – 95.60 Euros www.tauerperfumes.com

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21 thoughts on “Une Rose Vermeille – Tauer

  1. sasha says:

    I absolutely adore this one. It is incredibly beautiful and the way the jammy sugar gives way to wood is lovely. Unfortunately I’m allergic to it and can only spray it on a scarf. It’s nicer on skin of course, but still wonderful on fabric. I’m allergic to a lot of perfumes but this is the first one that really broke my heart not to be able to wear.

    • Ow that’s a shame :( !! At least you can still enjoy it :P
      It is absolutely beautiful isn’t it, I’ve always swooned over Une Rose Chypree and Carillon Pour Une Ange (which I have a new appreciation for) but Une Rose Vermeille has just proved that Tauer is unstoppable :’)
      Thanks for reading sasha! And having great taste :P

  2. lucasai says:

    I gave it few tries but Une Rose Vermeille is not for me. Too much weird, plastified raspberry and few other notes that are not my favourites.

  3. laniersmith says:

    It sounds so very interesting. I loved the review. Shinny jam and cheese cake sound yummy but not for me.

  4. Melis says:

    Lovely review, Freddie. I struggle with rose based perfumes. I am convinced that my skin does something ugly to them. Perhaps I just haven’t found the right one for me…….you’ve made this one sound really enticing. :)

    • Bizarrely it’s not actually that rose heavy! Have you tried many of the Tauer roses. Like Une Rose Chypree (very bay heavy – gorgeous), Incense Rose (more incense/orange with a potpourri style dry rose). Also try sniff out Wild Roses by Aftelier, a very unique take :D But yes, this one is fabulous.

      • Melis says:

        The only one I have tried is Incense Rose which starts off somewhat like rose tinged cough syrup on my skin but does mellow nicely into incense afterwards.

  5. Undina says:

    I like (as in “own and wear”) URV. It’s one of a few my perfumes that gets me compliments almost every time I wear it.

  6. You know I love my rose perfumes; but I have the feeling that this might be too thick and sweet for me as I’m already thick and sweet enough :) One day I’ll find my perfect Tauer. Lovely review my dear Freddie.

    • Aw thanks Steve. :P !! Do try it though, it’s very different to some of the other work – it has the idea of being very sweet without actually being particularly sweet. Very interesting perfume that has lots and lots of layers to it.
      Have you still not found it yet? D: Oh mannn!

  7. Raspberry is not my favorite note in perfumery. However, you have just convinced me to give it another try in Une Rose Vermeille.

    • Raspberry is one of my favourite notes! :D
      Definitely give it another try – there is so much more too it than on first sniff. Lovely :)

      • I just revisited Une Rose Vermeille. It is beautiful How did I overlook it before?! In any case, thanks for the review without which I wouldn’t have returned to another beautiful rose in my life :-)

      • :O <3 I'm so happy haha. I overlooked this one at first too – compared to the other two in the Homages, it didn't stand out for me. Giving it it's own time though and it just erupts into something incredible. Enjoy! And thanks for letting me know x

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