Rose and raspberries! MMMMMM! A combination I fell head over heels for in Secret Garden (Aftelier). Une Rose Vermeille opens with a tart lemon aldehyde accord that smells like opening a box of cheescake, the plastic wrapping and all. This plastic accord dominates up top for a few, glorious minutes – sweetened with citrus fruits and the underlying raspberry, which from a distance is already filling the air.
Unexpectedly, I smell a slightly camphorous, medicinal accord of lavender and a hint of clove, maybe even a touch of bay. Once you pick these up, it’s easy to see how Une Rose Veremille fits in with the other two fragrances in the Homages trio – they all possess a bitter green edge referencing perfumes of the past. I always considered URV the more playful and modern of the bunch, but its herbal undercurrent and classic aldehyde opening douse it in a maturity that smells like the younger (although technically older) sister to the future Miriam (Tableau De Parfums).
The sweetness of Une Rose Vermeille resembles that of a sleek, shiny jam. It scents a cloud around you of absolute delicious, playful fruitiness – but fascinating up close when this almost seems to disappear with a slightly metallic, oily rose/jasmine/carnation? combo and a hint of a resinous base smothers the skin. The rose, whilst I say is oily and metallic – is undoubtably modern and fresh, with a bite of pepper and a texture that is both young and soft, but has sharp edges.
Some violet comes in, adding a hint of fragrant powder until it practically takes the lead with the rose. The violet never smells dated or old fashioned (it never does to me anyway!) due to the crisp, culinary herbal accord still going strong close to the skin.
At times, the sandalwood takes on a slightly gourmand edge, like a Lutens’ use where it subtly resembles bakery – although I’m thinking more almond biscotti than buttered croissants. But this is extremely quiet underneath a large dose of Tauer ambergris and vanilla – a beautiful combo that keeps the fun in Une Rose Vermeille and its subtly complicated construction upfront and long-lasting. It’s during this drydown (despite the vanilla), that Une Rose Vermeille matures even more, losing its jammy sweetness but staining the woods underneath with a sour red laquer. A hint of now almost bitter powder clings to the skin and Une Rose Vermeille ages before your eyes/nose. I can never tell which stage of the fragrance is more beautiful, but up until it vanishes, I am left choked at how perfect it is.
Une Rose Vermeille 30ml EDP Tauer – 95.60 Euros www.tauerperfumes.com