An aldehydic blast opens Une Fleur De Cassie which is quickly followed by an intense, yet de-sweetened mimosa. I LOVE mimosa – it’s powdery, pollen-heavy, with a slight almond-y kind of smell, it’s gorgeous. Here, the mimosa takes on a “papery” texture which I really like – normally iris is to blame for this so I guess there is a little hint of it here?
The floral heart which leads Une Fleur De Cassie is a slightly rotted (just-turned) bouquet of mimosa, carnation (with the clove accords perfectly tuned down), a clean rose, a hint of jasmine and a smidge of “meaty” lily… it’s really, really nice. So I described it as “slightly rotted” – similarly to the indole in Sarrasins, indole here is thrown in with good measure, but thankfully the sheer amount of other floral accords going on in the heart interweave the fecal smell harmoniously and comfortably – making the bouquet a little dated and musty smelling – perfect.
A subtle cumin seems to be in there too adding a real warmth and density, making the florals a little more “human” and to me at least, interesting.
The mimosa still dominates for me, joining a heliotrope (and violet?) to increase the powdery, almond quality to the florals - this seems to even overwhelm the carnation and jasmine which is quite a feat! What I love, is that similar to how Jarling paired these notes with a medicinal undercurrent, Une Fleur De Cassie pairs these appealing almost edible florals with a bitter vegetal smell underneath. Whether this is the “cassie” or not, I don’t know – but the indole plays a bit part in this vegetal accord. Maybe it’s hyacinth? It has that real “swampy” smell to it, without the normal piercing pitch of hyacinth, like in my recent love Indigo. There also seems to be a slightly soiled, fruity note – which reminds me of the apricot/rose pairing of Aftelier’s recent Wild Roses. It has that kind of soft, furry apricot/peach scent that you often find paired with leather (Bottega Veneta, Daim Blond…) It’s confusing… whatever makes up this accord is very clever: a harmonious balance of a huge bouquet of floral notes to create a heart that is practically perfect.
Vanilla, sandalwood, indole and a touch of musk secure the base. The vanilla has a “low bass” kind of smell, if that makes sense – a similar vanilla to that in Musc Ravageur, there’s no high pitch sweetness and instead it is a mere hum on the floor of the fragrance.
Une Fleur De Cassie is surprisingly subtle on my skin – but with a perfect sillage and very easy to wear. Although too expensive, I’d love it as an everyday fragrance and will be sure to get a bottle of it soon. It reminds me of a more grown-up, refined Charogne by Etat Libre D’Orange which also plays on the rotted, indole heavy bouquet idea, only paired with a childish (but fun) bubblegum note that dominates throughout. Une Fleur De Cassie however is real, gorgeous, classic perfumery – excellent.
Une Fleur De Cassie 50ml EDP Frederic Malle – £110 http://shop.lessenteurs.com