An aldehydic blast opens Une Fleur De Cassie which is quickly followed by an intense, yet de-sweetened mimosa. I LOVE mimosa – it’s powdery, pollen-heavy, with a slight almond-y kind of smell, it’s gorgeous. Here, the mimosa takes on a “papery” texture which I really like – normally iris is to blame for this so I guess there is a little hint of it here?
The floral heart which leads Une Fleur De Cassie is a slightly rotted (just-turned) bouquet of mimosa, carnation (with the clove accords perfectly tuned down), a clean rose, a hint of jasmine and a smidge of “meaty” lily… it’s really, really nice. So I described it as “slightly rotted” – similarly to the indole in Sarrasins, indole here is thrown in with good measure, but thankfully the sheer amount of other floral accords going on in the heart interweave the fecal smell harmoniously and comfortably – making the bouquet a little dated and musty smelling – perfect.
A subtle cumin seems to be in there too adding a real warmth and density, making the florals a little more “human” and to me at least, interesting.
The mimosa still dominates for me, joining a heliotrope (and violet?) to increase the powdery, almond quality to the florals - this seems to even overwhelm the carnation and jasmine which is quite a feat! What I love, is that similar to how Jarling paired these notes with a medicinal undercurrent, Une Fleur De Cassie pairs these appealing almost edible florals with a bitter vegetal smell underneath. Whether this is the “cassie” or not, I don’t know – but the indole plays a bit part in this vegetal accord. Maybe it’s hyacinth? It has that real “swampy” smell to it, without the normal piercing pitch of hyacinth, like in my recent love Indigo. There also seems to be a slightly soiled, fruity note – which reminds me of the apricot/rose pairing of Aftelier’s recent Wild Roses. It has that kind of soft, furry apricot/peach scent that you often find paired with leather (Bottega Veneta, Daim Blond…) It’s confusing… whatever makes up this accord is very clever: a harmonious balance of a huge bouquet of floral notes to create a heart that is practically perfect.
Vanilla, sandalwood, indole and a touch of musk secure the base. The vanilla has a “low bass” kind of smell, if that makes sense – a similar vanilla to that in Musc Ravageur, there’s no high pitch sweetness and instead it is a mere hum on the floor of the fragrance.
Une Fleur De Cassie is surprisingly subtle on my skin – but with a perfect sillage and very easy to wear. Although too expensive, I’d love it as an everyday fragrance and will be sure to get a bottle of it soon. It reminds me of a more grown-up, refined Charogne by Etat Libre D’Orange which also plays on the rotted, indole heavy bouquet idea, only paired with a childish (but fun) bubblegum note that dominates throughout. Une Fleur De Cassie however is real, gorgeous, classic perfumery – excellent.
Une Fleur De Cassie 50ml EDP Frederic Malle – £110
http://shop.lessenteurs.com
Absolutely one of my favorites. I love that weird cardboard, paper pulp opening. And on me, it dries down to the best skin scent.
Yep, i’m swimming in that skin scent now – lovely! I’m glad you get the paper opening too – thought it was just me :’)
Looking forward to having a bottle of this
I wore it to my dissertation defense. It was my graduation gift to myself
Go get that bottle, Freddie!
Will do! When I’m not skint :’)
I like this more and more each time I sniff my wrist! Neeeeeed.
What a beautiful gift to yourself
It is beautiful. I can always smell it on my clothes afterwards. At that point, it smells powdery to me.
Une Fleur de Cassie is a stunning perfume. I got a sample in a swap few months ago and when I gave it a try I though it was very enjoyable and it suits the style of scents I like.
I’m surprised! Glad you’re enjoying it lucas.
So you thought I wouldn’t like it, huh?
I like Une Fleur de Cassie, especially in warmer weather, and think it’s a beautiful fragrance but it’s not tenacious enough on my skin and I feel it’s a little too expensive for what if offers. It’s a subjective feeling, I’m not saying the perfume isn’t worth its price – it’s just isn’t worth its price for me. Though, most likely, I’ll end up buying a travel spray or a decant – just to experience it from time to time.
I feel pretty similar – it is really really quiet on my skin. Sometimes that can be a blessing becuase I don’t always want to smell something on my clothes days after I’ve put it on – I find that to be the glory with the Aftelier’s, but even they are often more powerful than expected.
I just think, if I love the smell, it’s life on my skin can’t alter my thoughts on the fragrance – within reason of course. I would however like this to have a bit more power to it, it’s too grand not to.
Yes, I agree that this fragrance will bloom in warmer weather. Once spring arrives here in Kansas, my little sample will get at least 2 or 3 more trials. Even in cold weather, this floral is interesting, not just sweet and flowery.
Mmmm I can’t wait to crack it out in the summer then
Thanks for reading Martha
Freddie, I was nodding my head the whole time reading this review. This is exactly how I experience Un Fleur de Cassie, too, right down to the sort of comparison to Charogne, though I’ve never thought about aldehydes in the opening when wearing it. I think it’s spectacular that Ropion chose to celebrate this flower and in this way: it’s so subdued and mellow, and yet so odd and almost shocking at the same time. I love how this soft, almost chewy, powdery quality never feels “pretty” per se, but in its almost raw natural way, it is beautiful. To me it also feels like it has clarity sometimes, and then feels thick at others. And I love how the little bit of cedar and cumin give it a slightly dirty feel. The unlikely and unusual notes that form the result of Ropion’s work (which seems kinda risky to me) is what makes me love this so much. Oops, that was a long reply hehe… this one gets me gabby
Thanks as always for the review!
No, that’s a lovely comment thanks Anthony!
Thrilled to hear my thoughts matched yours exactly, that’s fascinating (and a rarity). Although, I’m sure your greater experience and passion with this fragrance, I could learn a lot more about it from you.
But yep – it is a really beautiful fragrance, that in honesty took me a little while to appreciate (until I broke it all down and understood it a little better) – I’d love to wear this regularly, I want some!
Thanks for the thoughtful reply Anthony.