First things first: apologies for slacking with updates on the blog, and kudos to all the other bloggers out there who are keeping their readers interested throughout the Christmas/New Year holidays – it’s hugely impressive and has kept me busy reading!
As for me, I’ve had tons going on, and the sheer amount of samples I have yet to write about has left me overwhelmed to a point where I have gone blank and not been writing, so – my regular posts will slowly come back, bare with me!
I first tried Sarrasins in the Palais Royal on my holidays last year, and a kind BN’er sent me a little sample of it to live with so I could write about it back home. I have worn it on and off for the last few days now so here’s my take on this niche classic.
Sarrasins starts with a subtle medicinal aroma that brings to mind Tubereuse Criminelle, only much more subdued, overlaid with a bucket of fruit – I get a strong honeyed pear (phenyl ethyl acetate?) and a sweet berry smell, maybe raspberry? Which quickly becomes undercut and overwhelmed by a heavily indolic jasmine.
I have to admit, the indole scared me the first few times I tried this. It was too fecal, too soiled, too dense and unappetizing – and you all know I’m one for challenging fragrances. I like indole too – I love the curdled bubblegum floral of Charogne, the intense (but incredible) Sepia, and the yet to be reviewed beauty that is Une Fleur De Cassie – but here, in Sarrasins, it was all a little too blunt. But now, after exploring the top notes a little further, I find they balance out the indole perfectly, and no longer do I get overwhelmed by the fecal floral.
The jasmine is much less intense than I anticipated, in fact, it’s quite translucent and light on the skin – but intense in its indolic concentration. Sarrasins however isn’t quite a soliflore - I get a little clovey hit of carnation, the jammy apricot floral of osmanthus (thankfully much nicer than the catastrophe of Nuit De Cellophane), and also a little bit of cream-cheese gardenia (very similar to it’s use in the new Une Voix Noire).
Unfortunately this floral bouquet grinds on me a little bit after a while, and its linear nature – along with that persistent scent of “decay” spreading underneath – makes me tired of having it on my skin within an hour or two. The drydown turns a little leathery and musky, bordering on dirty/clean yet again. If I cling onto the carnation/gardenia below the jasmine, I enjoy it a little more – but it’s too much hard work.
Now, I’m making it sound like Sarrasins is really difficult. It’s not. I have much more challenging stuff in my full bottle collection that I love to wear; Sarrasins to me is neither particularly challenging or particularly easy to wear, and for that reason, I don’t get as much enjoyment as I’d hope out of it. It is however a standout jasmine (which is, along with osmanthus and carnation, my least favourite floral – it’s amazing I like this at all isn’t it!), and I definitely recommend it. Personally it’s a little too straightforward for me, which sounds silly considering how much I love Tawaf (another straight forward jasmine), but there we go
Let me know what you guys think of Sarrasins, and what is your favourite jasmine soliflore?
Sarrasins 75ml Bell Jar Serge Lutens – 130 Euros sergelutens.com