Myrrhe Ardente opens with a sweet vanillic almost root beer like boozy accord – the myrrh’s texture underneath already showing a smooth, rubbery vibe that I’m loving! There’s a strong hint of anise in the top – a candied, syrupy aniseed lacquered over benzoin and a trail of resinous smoke. It starts sweet, the vanillic resins along with a beautiful amber slowly getting drier as time goes on.
The anise begins to quieten, as a the smoke gets a little stronger (from either the myrrh – or listed guaiacwood - which I was recently informed has a “fatty, smoky smell”, and that totally fits here). This change brings with it a lovely, set honey note – smooth, sweet and not at all animalic or “soiled” smelling. I almost expect an almond note to roll up and turn this into a big, bomb of a gourmand, but the resins keep it from being edible.
Myrrhe Ardente’s subtlty becomes apparant pretty quickly into it’s development, settling into a light layer on the skin (still however, with a lovely throw and a long life) - but full of rich ingredients and a dense, rubbery texture. A warm, peppered spice buzzes underneath keeping Myrrhe Ardente from falling too flat and rounded – and I get an almost chocolate/coffee note underneath, slightly lactonic with a bitter/sweet gourmand quality.
A woodiness gets stronger, it smells as smooth as sandalwood but with a dry, smokiness like raw cedar – only quieter and with a more dense texture… maybe the guaiac wood again? The warm amber underneath is beautiful, not at all powdery – and more heavy on the vanilla and benzoin than the resinous labdanum – the resinous quality replaced by the incense.
I keep catching glimpses of the anise remains in the drydown, as the myrrh begins to make itself a little more known – adding a distinct but subtle bitterness. The smooth, rubbery texture is continued by a finale of beeswax – dragging that honey note throughout the fragrance, but the vanilla-heavy amber and sweet, smoky wood dominate Myrrhe Ardente’s drydown until the end. It is such a comfortable fragrance to wear and a new love for me in the Annick Goutal line – I’ll be picking up a bottle of this in time!
Myrrhe Ardente 50ml EDP Annick Goutal – 87 Euros http://www.annickgoutal.com