Loretta – Tableau De Parfums

The second fragrance in the Tableau De Parfums line – created by Andy Tauer of Tauer Perfumes… :)

Loretta opens with candied grape soda and a hit of heated spice – giving off a very subtle candied cinnamon dusting paired with some green herbs that brings to mind the merest smidge of Eau D’Epices hidden underneath the syrupy florals. The grape soda from the start is something I first came across when smelling Cuir Venenum by Parfumerie Generale – an overloaded, obscure treatment of orange blossom and it’s lovely!

A clear rose comes into Loretta as the spices slowly begin to vanish, leaving behind a green, herbal smidge underneath. The rose and orange blossom are the leads, with a subtly lactonic tuberose creeping up from below – the green accords snapping to the tuberose to make it smell like the stem has been removed with the flower. The combination of bitter greenery and the tang of grape juice from the orange blossom and jasmine, create a bizarre, metallic and oily quality – which gets stronger as a worn leather note comes in. I’m glad I’m not the only one who picks up on this oily metallic quality as The Candy Perfume Boy entitled this The Steampunk Tuberose – and that totally makes sense!

The culinary herbal notes and the bitter leather notes bring to mind dated classics such as Bandit – but where that fragrance is solely about these notes, Loretta overloads them with a more modern candied floral accord that releases something almost avant-garde – a dominating, modern-day fruity floral with greater maturity.
The grape soda image never disappears for me, morphing into stewed fruits at times (plum), and hard PEZ candy at others. The orange blossom for me is the lead, sweet and playful, lacking the deep resinous aspects I expected. The tuberose slumps on the bottom, a green, decaying floral releasing oil and metallic notes that remind me slightly of (the opening to) Bolt Of Lightning by JAR, only more in control.

The rough leather stays tame, as some dry cedar becomes more potent – releasing a trail of smoke throughout Loretta that I initially mistook for incense. The burnt, charred aspect of the wood further splits Loretta into two halves – the fizzy candied florals and the smoky woods and leather (and a growing presence of green earth – vetiver? – that brings the return of the peppered spice from the opening), similarly to how Miriam split the bright aldehydic floral from the deep resinous base.

Whilst personally Miriam appeals more to me, Loretta is a fabulous fragrance. It does smell slightly familiar, I’m reminded of Cuir Venenum with its grape-y orange blossom and smoky leather, Love by By Kilian with its marshmallow like jasmine, orange blossom and candied white floral overload – only with a smear of Comme Des Garcons’ Garage muddled in the mix. I’m not saying the Loretta is un-original, it combines all these fragrances I really like and manages to elegantly smush them into something charming and ladylike. It has a dark heart, but puts on a beautiful smile – a complicated fragrance full of little nuances and unexpected textures that makes me discover something new each time I try it. As with all Tauer’s – recommended!

Loretta 50ml EDP Tableau De Parfums - $160 Luckyscent

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17 thoughts on “Loretta – Tableau De Parfums

  1. sinnerman01 says:

    I really admire the creativity behind these fragrances ! And the bottles are quite camp . NST is giving away 5 samples of this so im hoping I will be a lucky boy and get to try this one !
    Thanks for a great read ,

  2. Great review! Now I am really curious . . .

  3. lucasai says:

    I got partially used sample of Loretta from my generous friend from London, gave it a quick whiff but I didn’t like it then. I’ll spend some more time with it later but I get the feeling we won’t like each other.

    • Uhoh – it’s definitely not a fragrance that will appeal to everyone! It’s dividing opinions wherever I’ve read about it. I guess it’s the syrupy sweet florals – if you can get past that, you find what’s underneath, but up top – the power of it could rot your teeth in seconds.

      • lucasai says:

        We’ll see if I’m resistant to those syrupy flowers or not.

      • lucasai says:

        One more thing: I’m so hooked by M.Micallef Style that I start to wonder wether I should review Tauer or Micallef first.

        And my Eau de Gloire has just arrived!

      • Fab, congrats on the new PdE :D You’ve been after that one for ages ey!
        I haven’t tried anything by Micallef yet :( The packaging grosses me out, maybe next time i’m up in London I’ll go have a sniff.

      • lucasai says:

        I must say that Micallef bottles are a little bit weird but they look quite alright in live view.

        What say you? Which should I review?

  4. hajusuuri says:

    I tried this last week…lovely scent and will need to spend more time with it. Nice review!

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