Violet Disguise opens with a sweet, fruity twist on a black olive accord. Yep, salty, briney, black olives, dripping in oil. Mouthwatering-ly savoury but spiked with rich orange, plum and apricot. A subtle spice of medicinal clove paired with the slightly clinical citrus, makes the opening almost a little festive – like a spiced orange just starting to turn – devoid of fresh juice and instead dry and brittle.
It settles quickly though, it’s weight lifting off and the association with olives vanishing completely (although this effect lasts ages on paper) – and up comes a rich balmy, resinous scent that seems to carry with it a hint of myrrh and vanilla. As the fruits begin to soften, I seem to get a little bit of breezy lavender, and a lily of the valley – a hint of greenery keeping them fresh.
The myrrh-y amber gives off that breathy vibe that I normally can’t stand, but I’m growing to love as its curdled texture gives me that kind of grossed out but can’t stop sniffing effect! This breathy, resin is relatively translucent considering the weight of it, and the sweetened fruits merge into a singular accord that is hardly recognizable, but sweet and honeyed.
The one thing that throws me off is the violet – I can barely smell it… So I won’t talk about it The fruit from the opening leaves a mere stain on the skin, the resins (mainly amber) – a warm breath of bitter-sweet air above a subtle earthiness of maybe patchouli and quiet woods. The amber isn’t plush, but instead a crumbly texture – and whilst the drydown is extremely subtle on my skin, it’s quite unlike anything else, it manages to be unusual, without there being much particularly unusual about it.
The drydown, with the remains of the opening just gripping onto the balsams, gives off an almost play-doh like vibe – slightly doughy and salty with a mystery sweetness behind it. It comes across as chemical in both it’s translucency and overtly smooth texture, but a bizarre amber with a berry-sweetness and a drop of honey. It’s proving very difficult to describe (it has left me a bit stumped!) so my assumption is that the drydown is an exploration into building around an aromachemical that I’m not at all familiar with. Simplistic in the end but very interesting, and what a cracking opening!
Violet Disguise 60ml EDP Imaginary Authors – $89 www.imaginaryauthors.com