Azemour Les Orangers opens with sour orange peel and tart grapefruit – the juiciness is mouthwatering, and almost photorealistic paired with the greenery of cypress. It sounds repetitive but it really is the scent of your fingers after peeling an orange – maybe some aldehydes up top lifting those citrus notes into something flourescent and juicy.
It settles relatively quickly though, the orange still lovely, but the almost resinous greenery and warm cumin underneath turning Azemour a little more “cologne-y”. The cumin isn’t sweaty and overdone, and the orange remains become prickled with pepper.
The citrus fruit becomes more citrus floral – a bright neroli and orange blossom along with a big hit of rose come off quite dandy – without the lavender. The floral trio is relatively tame on the skin – after the gleaming opening the heart is soft and delicate in comparison. The orange blossom and neroli carry the citrus theme but for me, the rose comes off strongest. In fact, I grow Charles Darwin roses which are bright yellow and have a lemon-y tea like rose scent, and Azemour smells like it carries this aroma.
The greenery of the cypress lasts from start to finish, along with a subtle, bitter oakmoss. The chypre base of Azemour is extremely subtle on my skin – when I heat it, or breathe deep above the scent, it seems like there is a whole other world of complexity under there which just isn’t strong enough to come out on its own. There’s a rich, grassy hay, dry and brittle – along with a suede-y leather that gives it a plush “brown” colour – earthy and slightly animal, along with the remains of the dry spice of cumin and pepper. Maybe in hot weather, all this would erupt on my skin and it would be a perfect summer scent. For now, the opening is the part I keep craving, with a tame but enjoyable, classic bitter green drydown – the subtle florals thankfully steering Azemour clear from soap and powder.
Azemour is a good citrus/floral/chypre – it doesn’t quite have the bold personality on my skin I’d hoped, but it is a very easy, versatile wear (words that wouldn’t normally appeal to me), that manages to stand greater than many other house’s signature citrus colognes.
Azemour Les Oranges EDP 100ml Parfum D’Empire – £84.50 Les Senteurs