Miriam – Tableau De Parfums

I had been wanting to try this for so, so long. Tableau De Parfums is a new line that encorporates film, and fragrance. A short film is created (surrounding a female character) – and the brilliant Andy Tauer creates a fragrance to match.

Miriam opens fizzy and aldehyde heavy. A beautiful candied citrus up top of bergamot, orange and lemon have a sherbert quality, sharp and tangy – almost mouth-watering. The first floral to hit me is a powdery violet, cut underneath by a bitter green bay leaf. At this point it reminds me of Une Rose Chypree – where the rose is replaced by violets and an aldehydic opening.

A rich ylang ylang comes in next, that slight banana hint made richer and more effervescent by the still fizzing aldehydes and the scattering of powder. The bay leaf still drifting along strong, with a clove note maybe from a mere hint of carnation – and a herbaceous lavender which adds a medicinal edge. That’s where Miriam becomes distinctive as a modern fragrance with a vintage feel, rather than just a vintage fragrance – the huge contrast of textures and unexpected additions. The lavender/clove camphorous quality undercuts the “pretty” floral notes to create something that almost feels like two separate fragrances, but it just about holds together – it’s a great play on the skin.

A rich rose and jasmine in the distance add to the bouquet and fill the spaces which I appreciate (them not being the leading role) – for me it’s the violet, carnation, ylang ylang, and maybe even a lily of the valley? It’s a complicated arrangement but similarly to the recently reviewed Ubar by Amouage – works harmoniously.

The vanilla from the base begins to creep in after about 20 minutes or so, the lavender and sweet vanilla remind me of a tamer Kiki by Vero Profumo, only heavily overlaid with a classic floral arrangement. The bitter greenery quietens quickly as the vanilla smooths out the sharper edges. Similarly, a sandalwood and amber adds a resinous, woody base – smooth and creamy paired with the vanilla, rounding out Miriam into a languid drydown. The powder from the heart turns into a more prominent orris note, dragging the almost lipstick like quality into the base. At this point the iris, violet and wood combo bring to mind Pentachord White by Tauer, only Miriam is softer, without the intensely sharp rosewood.

Tauer’s signature is subtle but recognizable for those familiar with his work – it results in Miriam having a really unexpected, sweet/woody/resinous almost oriental base that feels a touch out of place – but all the better for that. It turns slightly musky as it lives on the skin, and I think there’s a smidge of ambergris that keeps Miriam ethereal and bright – the density of the base never overwhelming the buzz of the fizzy florals.
Miriam is a truly lovely fragrance. It has the same feel to it as La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens – that contrast of textures paired with aldehydes – resins and florals given new life. I find it fascinating and beautiful, and without a doubt one of the best feminine fragrances I have smelt in ages – a modern classic.

Miriam 50ml EDP Tableau De Parfums – $160 Luckyscent

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15 thoughts on “Miriam – Tableau De Parfums

  1. lucasai says:

    Miriam really is intrested. This week I got a sample of it from a swap. Really nice fragrance. Smells somehow like “vintage of today”

  2. This is on my test list, but have not garnered a sample yet. I have not found a Tauer that works well for me, and since this is a twist on vintage I thought it might be a good try. For some reason I am attracted to the bottle as well.

    • I like the bottle in the picture I included (that’s the back) – I hate the front of it though with the silhouette.
      This is a very Chanel No.5 meets Shalimar meets La Myrrhe kind of vibe, that kind of classical. It wouldn’t be something that I would automatically think you’d enjoy, but it’s hard not to appreciate :) Hope you get to try it soon Houndy, I think it’s the best feminine release in a long time.

  3. Undina says:

    You’re one of a few bloggers who constantly reviews both perfumes you liked and perfumes you … liked much less ;) So every time I click on the link to your new review I’m trying to guess if you’d like the perfume in the title or not. With this one I guessed correctly.

    As most Tauer’s perfumes (not all thought!) this one isn’t for me, I don’t think I will be wearing it (I will try though since I have a small decant from a friend) but I appreciate it and think it’s a very interesting perfume.

    • Haha! Well, I’m glad my blog’s like a little game too :’) I like to review anything worth writing about, whether it’s good or bad. I love it when I write about a fragrance that I think is absolutely amazing, but I’m not keen on the smell of it – like Shiso for example.
      I find it really interesting too, I found it a bit confusing at first becuase of the whole resin and herbal notes under the aldehydes, really wierd combinations in Miriam but it works seamlessly in the end I think. I would love a bottle, and probably will end up with one, but yeh like you I’m not sure if I’d be wearing it. What Tauer’s do you get on with by the way Undina? :)

      • Undina says:

        My most favorite is Une Rose Vermeille (I own a bottle of it). From time to time I enjoy wearing Zeta (bottle here as well). I’m still testing but think I like L’Air du desert marocain and Lonestar Memories.

      • smellythoughts says:

        I have gave a quick sniff to URV but I need to try it again properly – I have been really impressed with Carillon (although it’s not really to my taste) as well as Une Rose Chypree so I’m sure I’d like it. Zeta is something I’m yet to review but have been loving my sample. I prefer LM over LADDM, but both are great :D Glad you enjoy some of them, I love his work.

  4. [...] spray… Miriam is that you? The same blinding aldehyde bomb up top, that tinge of bergamot (maybe a bit of lemon [...]

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