Jarling has one of the most exquisite openings I have smelt. I know I said that about Fermes Tes Yeux - but this is different. A medicinal, camphorous blast of clove and eucalyptus, maybe some candied lavender, becomes overbowled by a heavenly but intense heliotrope and star anise – giving off an almond/marzipan vibe that is violated by an almost calamine lotion image.
Is it a bitter citrus? I’m not sure. There’s something I can’t quite put my finger on – is it peach? There’s a fruity element to Jarling, like a soft puree – along with this medicated lotion like scent, with the almond and anise more intense than they should be – but better for it. It is completely bitter-sweet, with an almost acidic lemon rind in the heart – curdling the more creamy notes of marzipan.
A lilac comes to the foreground also, giving Jarling a slightly soapy edge, and dragging that hyper-clean medicinal smell throughout. The almond/heliotrope gives Jarling a hefty sprinkle of powder, which is enhanced a little more by some iris. At this point, the clove note begins to settle, the fragrance becomes more soft and powdery – the anise and heliotrope give off a cloud like texture and weight, but still with that bitter medicinal aroma fresh on the memory, but not so much on the skin.
The life of Jarling is not particularly long, as it does get softer and quieter as time goes on, retreating close to the skin – still clinging onto its challenging personality until it settles into a much more wearable powder. Jarling is a fantastic piece of work, the first few sniffs and all I got was the beautifully powdery marzipan, the sniff after and I was bowled over with its antispetic aroma - very different from the smoky Savlon of Tea by Comme Des Garcons – hence my reference to calamine lotion – it’s texture is different, almost sticky and overwhelming. It’s a challenging and unusual partnership to the sweet almond notes of heliotrope and the syrupy anise but it works wonderfully.
I really like this, and if I was to splash out on a JAR, this would probably be the one for me – it is however, very difficult to wear. Still, a perfumista’s must sniff – JAR is exceptionally overpriced, but I can’t fault them on creativity.
Jar Jarling 30ml – $$$$