A sweet honeyed tobacco, a fruit-laden booze and rich leather open Bois D’Ombrie, initially bringing to mind CB I Hate Perfume’s Cumming. After just a few seconds of getting your head around the gloriously rich but subdued opening, a powdery but rooty iris comes forward, it instantly becomes a recognizable Duchaufour creation.
The leather and tobacco retreat in their intensity a little, whilst still adding a hint of smoke. The iris is joined by Bertrand’s signature incense, reminding me of both Dzongkha, and Sienne L’Hiver – but with a warmer, spicier colour. The spice – a dash of pepper, and what smells like maybe nutmeg? Smoothing out the composition is myrrh – giving off its usual “breathy”, resinous scent and adding a rubbery texture, calming the spices and joining the smooth iris.
The boozy scent of warm raisins trails throughout Bois D’Ombrie, but quiet, and not given a syrupy treatment like a Lutens’ creation for example – here it is more translucent, given depth by smoky leather and rich tobacco of the heart. The powdery iris and delicate spice are cut with an earthiness of subtle vetiver, and the fragrance whilst sounding like a complicated bag of textures is executed perfectly smooth and light – smelling like a smoky stain on the skin. The spicy vibe is thankfully not loud at all, and I’m sure I get a little bit of saffron in there as well which I really enjoy.
There’s a deep woodsy note and a bunch of patchouli in the base, but the fragrance never lets go of its initial personality of booze and leather. The Duchaufour signature splattered across it start to finish may be too obvious and familiar for some, but Bois D’Ombrie is a perfect partner to Sienne L’Hiver – they evoke similar reactions in me and I thoroughly enjoy them both but wouldn’t really want to wear either. Where Sienne L’Hiver is cold and briney (which I prefer), this is warm and slightly nostalgic – easier to wear and more masculine.
I think Bois D’Ombrie is a fantastic, original fragrance – it’s handsome and charming but with a slightly melancholy aura throughout, a perfect “mood” for a fragrance – go sniff it!
Sienne L’Hiver Bois D’Ombrie 50ml EDT – £87.00 Les Senteurs