Fermes Tes Yeux – JAR

A potent animalic rush opens Fermes Tes Yeux. A heavy castoreum and civet combo pack one hell of a hardcore punch just as the intense narcotics of florals underneath come forward with rich decay. The decayed note that fills the opening is topped with the cool, camphorous notes of eucalyptus, clove and maybe even a bit of mint and lavender? It’s cold, calculating, medicinal and herbal… and without a doubt, one of my favourite openings of all time.

The fragrance at first brings to mind the narcotic intensity of Tubereuse Criminelle, the decayed petals of Charogne, the powerful musk of Untitled No.8 by Brent Leonesio, and the medicinal high-pitched screech of Tea by Comme Des Garcons – all things I love.
As it begins to calm (only just), the most prominent floral to my nose is ylang-ylang. I get billows of old banana skin, with the tropical narcotics still almost white noise. The cloves are cold and medicinal, the eucalyptus smear bringing to mind a hidden smidge of tiger balm.

The bitter herbal opening also brings to mind numerous O’Driu and Santa Maria Novella fragrances… please excuse my constant comparisons – with no notes list given for these I’m trying to put forward this fragrance as blatantly as I can.
The rich leather underneath, scrubbed up to a point where is screams with chemical overload goodness. As the leather comes in more prominently as does a hit of indolic lily. The spicy kick that comes with lily is paired with its over-ripe “hammy” quality as Turin describes – it smells like cold, processed meat, ham in particular… this thing I’m sure sounds so unappetizing.
There are more florals though, and after smelling Zeta by Tauer today – I’m convinced I get linden blossom in this also, but only because it’s scent is fresh on my mind, but the honeyed, green twang is there that makes them so identifiable. Also orange blossom? There must be jasmine as well due to my initially association with Charogne.

As it begins to dry down, the muskiness is still killer strong, but now with the overpowering smell of beeswax, that grips ahold the remaining indoles and floral pollen. It’s rich, dark, leather – overloaded with textures and flavours is a real nose attack of the best kind. The lily settles into something much more appetizing and becomes the leading floral note for me. It’s lovely top to bottom, a real challenge, and another perfect example of how brilliant natural perfumery can be :)

Fermes Tes Yeux 30ml JAR – $$$$ (300 Euros+)

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4 thoughts on “Fermes Tes Yeux – JAR

  1. Your description sounds like it would be like a kick in the b*lls and makes me want to check out this incredible creation. I can’t really imagine what a “hammy” quality smells like though I can guess. Too bad these are just so over the top in price with means I’ll have to stay away. But I love reading your “smelly” thoughts!

    • Sometimes lily fragrances in concetration have the bizarre damp scent of a fresh pack of cooked ham… it’s wierd. Fermes Tes Yeux is a real kick in the balls yup, very impressive though. I think the only place to try these in the US is Bergdorf Goodman in NY.
      Thankfully I got gifted a sample pack from someone on BN, but, there was literally like 0.2ml in each one, enough for about 2 or 3 wears, or I’d pass them on! D:
      A very interesting line though, there’s one more I enjoy and the rest are so-so, but yeh, I’ll talk about them later aha.
      Thanks for reading Steveeee :)

  2. melis says:

    Wow Freddie!! It sounds utterly amazing. TC is my #1 perfume right now. This perfume sounds exactly like something I would wear. I must get a sample NOW and will worry about how to procure a FB later, lol. Thanks for the awesome review!

    • Thanks Melis! This thing is a real challenge, it’s like TC taken to the next level of extremity! Definitely hunt down a sample, even if it’s just 1/4ml sample from the perfumed court (about $10), you don’t need much to give it a lot of good wearings. A must sniff :)
      Thanks for commenting Melis.

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