A potent animalic rush opens Fermes Tes Yeux. A heavy castoreum and civet combo pack one hell of a hardcore punch just as the intense narcotics of florals underneath come forward with rich decay. The decayed note that fills the opening is topped with the cool, camphorous notes of eucalyptus, clove and maybe even a bit of mint and lavender? It’s cold, calculating, medicinal and herbal… and without a doubt, one of my favourite openings of all time.
The fragrance at first brings to mind the narcotic intensity of Tubereuse Criminelle, the decayed petals of Charogne, the powerful musk of Untitled No.8 by Brent Leonesio, and the medicinal high-pitched screech of Tea by Comme Des Garcons – all things I love.
As it begins to calm (only just), the most prominent floral to my nose is ylang-ylang. I get billows of old banana skin, with the tropical narcotics still almost white noise. The cloves are cold and medicinal, the eucalyptus smear bringing to mind a hidden smidge of tiger balm.
The bitter herbal opening also brings to mind numerous O’Driu and Santa Maria Novella fragrances… please excuse my constant comparisons – with no notes list given for these I’m trying to put forward this fragrance as blatantly as I can.
The rich leather underneath, scrubbed up to a point where is screams with chemical overload goodness. As the leather comes in more prominently as does a hit of indolic lily. The spicy kick that comes with lily is paired with its over-ripe ”hammy” quality as Turin describes – it smells like cold, processed meat, ham in particular… this thing I’m sure sounds so unappetizing.
There are more florals though, and after smelling Zeta by Tauer today – I’m convinced I get linden blossom in this also, but only because it’s scent is fresh on my mind, but the honeyed, green twang is there that makes them so identifiable. Also orange blossom? There must be jasmine as well due to my initially association with Charogne.
As it begins to dry down, the muskiness is still killer strong, but now with the overpowering smell of beeswax, that grips ahold the remaining indoles and floral pollen. It’s rich, dark, leather – overloaded with textures and flavours is a real nose attack of the best kind. The lily settles into something much more appetizing and becomes the leading floral note for me. It’s lovely top to bottom, a real challenge, and another perfect example of how brilliant natural perfumery can be
Fermes Tes Yeux 30ml JAR – $$$$ (300 Euros+)