L’Eau opens like a traditional cologne. Bright, transparent citrus – with the inclusion of soapy aldehydes, a little bit of mint, and very subtle clary sage.
That’s about it. There’s a delicate white musk underneath that provides a little bit of throw and the most miniscule amount of warmth. The aldehydes burn off and give way to some ozonic, calone-y style notes, continuing L’Eau’s sense of weightlessness from the opening.
There’s a very subtle spice that is pulled throughout, whether it is just from the sage or not I don’t know – but basically, this is light, fresh, citrus cologne – absolutely nothing to talk about The only plus is that it lasts a surprisingly long time, and it manages to never fall into to “bathroom cleaner” territory – which I guess is impressive in itself… Still, a worthless release
The spicy opening cools relatively quickly, as a fresh, slightly salted accord coats the L’Eau Froide, and an ever so slightly resinous incense provides a delicate, crisp smoke. Whilst it sounds complicated, it’s execution smells very simplistic – from a distance, or a passing sniff, it yet again resembles a generic cologne. Within ten minutes, that’s exactly what it becomes.
A very clean, translucent vetiver in the base secures the slightly spicy, herbal quality of the opening, whilst the saltiness disappears, leaving behind some aquatic remains. The incense is cool, translucent, and unappetizing – and whilst thankfully avoiding citrus cologne territory, it manages to create something equally dull.
I am keeping an open mind with these, and have read very little about them. I understand the concept was to make an anti-perfume in the sense that this is so different from Lutens’ usual style. The thing is, they are not even good examples of their genre. I’d say “hugely disappointing” – but I’m not disappointed. Easy to forget and never sniff again
L’Eau Serge Lutens 50ml – 69 Euros sergelutens.com
L’Eau Froide Serge Lutens 50ml – 69 Euros sergelutens.com